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Is the drive belt tensioner and idler pulley a do it yourself job?thank-you
engine has loud knock at front of motor . was told. pulleys were gone last week they replaced harmonic balancer.
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If the belt is not turning, there will be a seized pulley. Possible alternator.. power steering.... water pump... tensioner.... idler pulley ... AC compressor seized. The belt will need to be removed and all the pulleys spun by hand to isolate tone that may be seized
Hi there
Your problem could be either Alternator bearing or water pump bearing ,both of these are normal problems, so sorry to tell you but you have to remove the belt again and spin the alternator pulley and see if it has a groan noise and the same with the water pump.
Your problem should be 1 of them OR the other problem is bigger and thats the bottom engine front pulley SEAL but thats only 1 in 1000 times so hope its one of the other two.
Hi there:I dont have this diagram for 2S-ELC, 3S-FE and 5S-FE Engines, but pay attention at this... To install:
Align the cutouts of the oil pump pulley and shaft, and slide the pulley on. Retain the pulley while tightening the nut to 21 ft. lbs. (28 Nm).
Align the crankshaft timing pulley set key with the key groove of the crankshaft pulley, then slide the pulley on.
Install the No. 2 idler pulley with the bolt and tighten to 31 ft. lbs. (42 Nm). Be sure the pulley moves smoothly.
Remove any oil or water on the idler pulley and keep it clean.
Temporarily install the No. 1 idler pulley with the retaining bolt. Hint: use a 1.65 inch (42mm) bolt in length. Do not tighten the bolt yet. Install the tension spring. Pry the pulley toward the left as far as it will go, then tighten the bolt.
Turn the crankshaft until the key groove in the crankshaft timing pulley is facing upward. Install the timing belt on the crankshaft timing, oil pump, No. 2 idler and water pump pulleys.
If the old timing belt is being reinstalled, make sure the directional arrow is facing in the original direction and that the belt and crankshaft gear matchmarks are properly aligned.
Install the lower (No. 1) timing belt cover and new gasket with the four bolts.
Align the crankshaft pulley set key with the pulley key groove. Install the pulley. Tighten the pulley bolt to 80 ft. lbs. (108 Nm).
On 2S-ELC engines, turn the crankshaft pulley and align the 0 mark on the lower (No. 1) timing belt cover.
Align the camshaft knock pin with the matchmarks on the oil seal retainer.
On 2S-ELC/USA engines, align the knock pin with the pin hole on the timing pulley E mark side. On 2S-ELC/Canadian engines, align the knock pin with the pin hole on the timing pulley. On 3S-FE and 5S-FE engines, align the knock pin with the groove of the pulley, and slide the pulley onto the camshaft with the plate washer and set bolt.
On 2S-ELC engines, make sure that the Matchmark on the oil seal retainer and center hole of the small hole on the camshaft timing pulley are aligned.
Using the removal tool to hold the pulley stationary, install and tighten the pulley set bolt to 40 ft. lbs. (54 Nm) on the 2S-ELC and the 3S-FE. On the 5S-FE, tighten the set bolt to 27 ft. lbs. (37 Nm).
On 3S-FE and 5S-FE engines, turn the crankshaft pulley and align the 0 mark on the lower (No. 1) timing belt cover.
Install the timing belt and check the valve timing as follows:
Align the matchmarks that you made previously, and install the timing belt onto the camshaft pulley.
Loosen the No. 1 idler pulley set bolt 1 / 2 turn.
Turn the crankshaft pulley two complete revolutions TDC to TDC. ALWAYS turn the crankshaft CLOCKWISE. Check that the pulleys are still in alignment with the timing marks.
Tighten the No. 1 idler pulley set bolt to 31 ft. lbs. (42 Nm).
Make sure there is belt tension between the crankshaft and camshaft timing pulleys.
Install the upper (No. 2) timing cover with a new gasket(s). On the 5S-FE, align the two clamps for the engine wiring harness with the cover mounting bolts.
Install the spark plugs.
Install the right mounting insulator with bracket. Tighten the bracket bolts to 38 ft. lbs. (52 Nm), insulator nuts to 38 ft. lbs. (52 Nm) and thru-bolt to 52 ft. lbs. (71 Nm). On the 5S-FE, install the No. 2 engine mount bracket and tighten to 38 ft. lbs. (52 Nm); install the control rod and tighten the bolts to 47 ft. lbs. (64 Nm).
Lower the engine.
On 3S-FE and 5S-FE engines, install the alternator and alternator bracket. On 2S-ELC engines, install the power steering reservoir tank.
Install the drive belt and adjust the tension.
Install the cruise control actuator with bracket.
Install the fender apron seal and right engine under cover.
If your belts are squealing it is the drive belt/belts that need attention not the timing belt. You need to check your belt tension and condition and replace as needed. If a timing belt ever got to the point that it might squeal the car would not run because it would be too far out of time. Your belts will all be external whereas at timing belt is internal and a major part of the engine.
Check the pulley alignment if they are not aligned they eat the belts, if they have the ribs to sharp they willcut thru the belts, Inspect the crankshaft pulley if it turns too freely it may be loose from vibration rubber, replace it.
Shortly after replacing the serpentine belt in my lancer, the same thing happened. It is NOT the timing belt. Belts squeal when they slip. If your timing belt slipped it would cause your car to run funny.
have somebody check the belt for wear (or do it yourself), replace if necessary. If it doesn't need replacement, just tighten it.
If you have the 4cyl engine that I have, the tightening is kind of a pain in the ****. Not a great design by mitsubishi. There's a pulley near the front right corner of the engine in front of the alternator. the belt should be running around this pulley GROOVE SIDE OUT. This is the tension pulley.
To tighten: 1) Lightly loosen the bolt in the center of the pulley (slightly loosen, DO NOT REMOVE). 2) Under that pulley there's another bolt. You can see that the bolt goes through a piece of metal attached to the back of the pulley. Figure out which way you need to turn the bolt to move the pulley toward the front of the car. (i don't remember if it's right hand thread, or left hand) This puts extra tension on the belt. You probably don't need much. Over tensioning the belt can cause pulley bearing failure. If you haven't done this work before, ask someone for help. It's better to tighten a little bit, a few times rather than overtighten once. 3) Don't forget to ReTighten the bolt in the center of the pulley.
If there's lots of cracks and pieces missing on the ribs or grooves of the belt you should replace it first.
Try removing the belt and turning each pulley by hand. If everything is smooth and free, with the belt still off, drive down the block once and see if the noise is there (this will eliminate all rotating accessories on the front). If you hear the noise, then there is a problem deeper inside. Oil pressure is good? Dont' forget when doing this, you will have no power steering, so be careful.
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