Car shaking and pop nosie from passenger side wheel

The popping could be from a bad CV axle joint, or a bad wheel bearing. Better get checked, sounds very worn. Raise the wheel on a jack and watch for play. Grab wheel at 3 and 9 o'clock, and shake back and forth-watch for play. Wheel bearing? CV joint -is boot still good? Ball joints at bottom of wheel attaching point to the control arm-check this for play, too.

repair all the worn suspension parts and have a wheel alignment done

I'm not sure that you have a problem. When tire adhesion varies from side to side, the vehicle stance will often change. In your described situation, the passenger tires have dramatically reduced adhesion and the drivers side do not. A bit of a sway to the right would be normal and expected. It's rather like only the drivers side wheels are moving the car.

Have a front end suspension check done to eliminate any worm ball joints -shockies- worn suspension rubbers-- steering problems. If ok have a wheel alignment done and have the rear end aligned first as it affects the front alignment. The violent wobble is castor wobble and indicates negative castor possible from sagging suspension springs. The camber is out at that results in the car following every dip in the road. The camber has to work in conjunction with the toe-in measurement and if the 2 are not correct then you will have problems.

i take it you have checked all the wheel nuts are tight and the wheels are balanced the next thing i would be looking for is some broken rubbers in the front end

If steering wheel shakes bad tire on front. If whole car shakes bad tire on rear. Or tires could be out of balance. If steering wheel shakes when brakes applied, front rotors are warped.

Could be a wheel, tire, or axle shaft.
You could rotate the tires front to back and see if the vibration moves.
If it does the problem is one of the tires or wheels.
If it stays in the front, its probably one of the axle shafts. It could also be a hub bearing or something loose in the suspension. But a loose suspension part would normally show up when you hit a bump rather than on a smooth road.

If a hub bearing was bad, it almost always would make noise, more so when changing lanes at higher speed. Outer CV joints make a loud low pitched rattle when turning (corners). Inner CV joints raise hell at high speed- bad shake! Sway links affect cornering and clunk when hitting rough patches of road surface.
Is the vibration worse at 65 than at 50? If so, you are dealing with a wheel balance situation. Find an old time front end shop that will check the balance on the vehicle. You will have to turn off the traction control to do this or use an on-the-car wheel balancer.
If you feel it at some low speeds at it comes back at other higher speeds, then you are dealing with tire roundness. Possible more than 1. More common than we would like.

The bumps do initiate the shaking. When my 2006 Ram 2500 4x4 started shaking, I had just had it aligned that morning. A month or so before that alignment, my passenger side outer tie-rod broke while driving down a rock road. I replaced it with a heavy duty MOOG tie-rod end. Anyway, the same day I had it aligned I was driving back home from a job and towing my bobcat behind me. I hit a bump and the truck did the "death wobble" with the front end shaking violently up and down in an alternating fashion (one tire in the air while one tire on the ground and then vice-versa). I changed the tires first (which were worn-out 305/75/17 mud tires). Since the day I bought the truck new in Jan. 2006, I've had larger tires on the truck than the tiny 235/75/17s that came with it and I've done a lot of heavy towing with it and never had a problem until this alignment was done at Sears. I;m still trying to figure out if it was the alignment specs that they used or if the problem coincidentally started that same day. I also changed the steering stabilizer. Neither the new tires nor the stabilizer/damper helped the problem. So I changed the other outer tie-rod end and the upper and lower ball joints (all MOOG with grease fittings). I turns out they were worn out. So, the truck no longer shakes violently up and down when I hit a bump. That problem seems to be in check. However, now when I hit a bump the truck's front end wobbles side-to-side. I can do a few things to recover from it. I can hit the brakes pretty hard and sudden (which can cause an accident on the interstate), or I can **** the steering wheel side-to-side a few times (from 10 o'clock to 2 o'clock) and that stops it immediately...until the next bump in the road. Also, if I let my foot off the accelerator just before hitting a bump and let the truck coast over it instead of power through it, sometimes the truck will ride over the bump without incident. I found out yesterday on a 5 1/2 hour road trip that if I did 80 to 90 miles per hour and powered through every road blemish, the truck rode fine...no shaking at all. I suppose the high speed forces the tires to stay straight when they hit a bump. Lastly, to confuse my problem solving attempts further, sometimes the truck rides like a cadillac (for an hour or so) at regular speeds and no matter what bumps I hit. Then without worning, the front end will loosen up and get that sloppy feeling again and the wobbling comes back at every bump...until the next time it feels like tightening up and driving right again. I have no idea what to do now. I'm going back to Sears today to have them check their alignment. Other than that, all I can think of is to change the rest of the steering components and check the steering box for malfunction. I hope someone can help all of us Dodge owners out off of the road tested info that I've just provided. Dodge doesn't seem to care to address the problems with their trucks front ends, and we need a solution before people get hurt or die. I was almost run over by an 18-wheeler trying to figure out how to handle the shake. I can't afford to buy another truck. So I need to fix this one so I can keep working. If anybody has a concrete solution to these problems, please let us know. I've read 20 different opinions from mechanics on these blogs, but nobody has said yet that they fixed someone's truck with these problems and have since heard from that customer and everything is still working fine. Opinions are helpful sometimes, but they're also confusing when they're conflicting.

At what speed do you feel the shake and does it only happen when you apply the brakes?