On the front passenger side, I replaced the ball joint (it was bad), the tie rod (bad) the wheel bearing (bad) and the CV HalfShaft (bad)....yet.... there is STILL shaking on the passenger side of the car. I had a relative drive the car, he says he's not sure it was the front tire in the first place, and it might be the back tire. While driving it around 55mph the vibration comes on pretty quick, and maintains the vibration until around 70 and quits. The car has new tires.... any help....thanks in advance

1. Loosen front strut upper mount nuts. 2. Raise and support vehicle, then remove front wheel and tire. 3. Remove wheel hub nut. Do not discard wheel hub nut at this time. 4. Remove front brake caliper anchor plate bolts and position brake caliper and anchor plate assembly aside. Support brake caliper and anchor plate assembly using mechanics wire. 5. Remove brake disc screw, then thread a M10 bolt into brake disc removal hole and tighten to press disc off hub. 6. Remove tie rod end nut, then separate tie rod from wheel knuckle. No special tools are required to separate tie rod from front knuckle; use a mallet to loosen joint. 7. Remove stabilizer bar link upper nut. 8. Detach wheel speed sensor harness from strut. 9. Remove wheel speed sensor from wheel knuckle. Position wheel speed sensor aside. 10. Remove lower ball joint nut, using a crowfoot wrench. Use hex-holding feature to prevent stud from turning while removing nut. 11. Push lower control arm downward until ball joint is clear of wheel knuckle. Use care when releasing lower control arm and knuckle into resting position or damage to ball joint seal may occur. 12. Press halfshaft from wheel bearing and hub, using a suitable front wheel hub remover. Support halfshaft in a level position. Do not allow halfshaft to move outboard. Overextension of CV joint may result in separation of internal parts, causing failure of halfshaft. 13. Remove upper strut mount nuts. 14. Remove wheel knuckle and strut and spring as an assembly. 15. Remove strut to wheel knuckle nut and flag-bolt. 16. Separate strut and spring assembly from wheel knuckle. 17. Reverse procedure to install, noting following: a. Wheel hub nut contains a one time locking chemical that is activated by heat created when it is tightened. Install and tighten new wheel hub nut to specification within 5 minutes of starting it on threads. Always install a new wheel hub nut after loosening or when not tightened within specified time or damage to components can occur. b. Torque lower strut bolt to knuckle to 129 ft. lbs. c. Torque lower ball joint to knuckle to 148 ft. lbs. d. Torque wheel speed sensor to knuckle to 133 in. lbs. e. Torque stabilizer bar upper link to 111 ft. lbs. f. Torque previously removed hub nut to 258 ft. lbs; to seat halfshaft. g. Torque new hub nut to 258 ft. lbs. h. Torque upper strut mount nuts to 46 ft. lbs. i. Torque wheel lug nuts to 100 ft. lbs.

CV joint - wheel side needs to be replaced :) right wheel, a lot of people drive like that for a while before they fix it so don't worry, also it shouldn't be soooo expensive

What noise? And year and make of car?
A clicking noise on turns is a worn CV joint on the axle shafts. A grinding noise at one of the wheels could be a wheel bearing. Worn brake pads may cause squealing, screeching other high pitched noise.

Could be your tie rods coming out of the rack and pinion and attached to the wheels. Grasp the tie rod near where it attaches to the wheel and see if you can shake, twist or move it. If you feel any play or looseness at all in the tie rod joint, then it is worn badly. Both outer tie rods at each wheel should be replaced. If the outer tie rods are tight, you can't move them with your hands, then have a shop check your inner tie rods for wear. Have them check the ball joints for wear, also. Or you can raise the wheel off the ground. Be safety conscious. Grab the tire at top and bottom. Can the tire move in and out, feel play in the lower ball joints? Any side to side play in the wheel? Maybe you can spot the looseness at the tie rod or balljoint. Maybe you'd better let a shop look at it.
A CV joint wouldn't have those symptoms. A wheel bearing possibly, but usually accompanied by a grinding noise. Have it checked out.

There are several components that could cause noise from the front when turning. I am assuming when you say the Front nearside you are saying the fromt left wheel is where the knocking is comming from when making a left turn. The components to be concerned about are, Wheel bearings, Ball Jionts, Tie rod Ends, CV joints and brake rotors.
Wheel Barrings:
Jack the car up under the control arm until the wheel is off the ground about 3 inches. Slide a pry bar ybder the tire and place the other hand on the top of the tire. As you lift and lowere the pry bar fell for loose movement in the tire. If there is such movement you have a bad wheel bearing.
Ball Joint:
Repeat the test above and watch the upper and lower ball joints for movement. Is there is movement replace the bad ball joint.
Tie Rod ends:
With the tire still off the ground grip the tire in the front and back and rey to move it as if your were trying to turn the tire. Watch the tie rod ends for loose movement. If they are loose replace them.
CV joint:
The Joint is housed in a rubber boot. If you can feel the joint inside the boot you can turn the tire forward and back and feel for play in the joint. If you are not able to feel the play you can loosen the clamp on the boot and push the boot out of the way. Then repeat the test.
Brake Rotors. Inspect the brakes for wear and any signs of pitting or grooves in the rotors.
You need to take this seriously because if you have a Ball joint or tie rod end break while driving, it will cause a wreck.

One of your CV joints are bad, inspect which CV joint needs to be replaced. Roll your windows down and make tight right and left corners in an empty parking lot slowly and listen for the clicking noise. If it's coming from the passenger side window or the drivers side window, which ever side the noise is coming from is the side that the CV joint has failed and will need to be replaced.
Thank you for using FIxya and replacing the front wheel bearing improperly buy hammering the CV joint out instead of using a wheel bearing puller will cause damage to the CV joint as to what you have described. Good luck and keep us posted.

Loosen the wheel hub nut.
Remove the front road wheel and tire.
Remove the tie rod end retaining nut.
Using the special tool 204-192 Ball joint Splitter
detach the tie rod end.
Remove the subframe reinforcement plate retaining bolts.
Loosen the subframe rear mount bolt.
Loosen the subframe front mount bolt.
Remove and discard the wheel hub nut.
using spcial tools 204-269Forcing Screw,205-491-01 adapter nuts,205-491 wheel hub puller
Detach the wheel knuckle.
Remove the lower arm ball joint retaining bolt.
Reposition the lower arm.
Detach the wheel knuckle.
using special tools 307-443 RH Halfshaft splitter ,307-442 RH Halfshaft splitter handle
detach the halfshaft.
Remove the exhaust muffler inlet pipe.
Remove the halfshaft seal.
Remove the transfer case Y bracket retaining bolt.
To prevent damage to the transfer box internal seal,
make sure that the link shaft is not retracted further than
200 mm from the transfer box casing.
remove the halfshaft.
Attach special tools to the halfshaft.
Lever the special tools to displace the halfshaft.
Install the transfer case Y bracket retaining bolt.
Remove the halfshaft.
Use suitable protective covers to protect the barshaft.
Remove the halfshaft snap ring.
Install a new snap ring to the halfshaft.
Install a new halfshaft seal.
Remove the special tool.
Remove the transfer case Y bracket retaining bolt.
Remove the special tool.
Make sure the CV joint splines are located fully.
Do not use excessive force when engaging the CV joint into the link shaft.
Install the halfshaft.
Install the transfer case Y bracket retaining bolt.
Tighten to 25 Nm.
Attach the wheel knuckle.
Reposition the lower arm.
Attach the wheel knuckle.
Install the lower arm ball joint retaining bolt.
Tighten to 83 Nm.
Install the exhaust muffler inlet pipe.
Tighten the subframe front mount retaining bolt.
Tighten to 142 Nm.
Loosely install the subframe rear mount retaining bolt.
Install the subframe reinforcement plate retaining bolts.
Tighten to 35 Nm. Tighten to 142 Nm.
Install the tie rod end.
Tighten to 35 Nm.
Loosely install a new wheel hub nut.
Install the front road wheel and tire.
Tighten the wheel hub nut.
Tighten to 330 Nm.
Check the subframe alignment.

you may have bad CV joints. Each halfshaft has an inner and outer cv joint. One halfshaft going to each front wheel. Check to see if the rubber boots are split and all the grease leaked out.

1. Raise the front of the vehicle and support it on jackstands, then remove the wheel and the tire assembly.
2. Remove the cotter pin from the drive axle.
3. Have a helper firmly apply the brakes, and loosen the hub nut.
4. Remove the caliper assembly.

It is not necessary to disconnect the brake hose from the caliper. Position the caliper out of the way and secure with mechanics wire.

1. Using the removal tool HT72520000 or equivalent, remove the tie rod ball joint from the steering knuckle.
2. On 1982-86 vehicles, disconnect the ball joint from the lower control arm, by removing the mounting nuts from the bottom of the control arm.
3. On 1987-90 vehicles, disconnect the ball joint from the steering knuckle, using removal tool HT72520000 or equivalent.
4. Using a block of wood and a mallet, separate the halfshaft from the hub/steering knuckle assembly. If the assembly is difficult to separate it may be necessary to use a press/puller tool.

In order to protect the halfshaft from damage, it is a good idea when striking the halfshaft, to temporarily install the hub nut.

1. Drain the lubricant from the transaxle.
2. Support the engine properly and remove support bracket if so equipped.
3. Remove the halfshaft from the right side on automatic transaxle equipped vehicles and on all manual transaxles as follows:
   1. Insert a suitable prybar between the inner CV-joint and the transaxle.
   2. Carefully pry the halfshaft from the transaxle.
   
   

When removing the driveshaft from the transaxle, do not pull on the driveshaft. The driveshaft will separate at the sliding joint (damaging the boot).

1. Remove the left side halfshaft on automatic transaxles as follows:
   1. Remove the right side halfshaft as outlined above.
   2. Insert a slotted screwdriver, from the right side of the transaxle.
   
   

Make certain that the screwdriver is properly aligned into the slot in the halfshaft.

1. Tap the screwdriver with a mallet to remove the left side halfshaft from the transaxle.

1. Pull the hub/steering knuckle assembly away from the vehicle and remove the halfshaft from the transaxle.

After removing the halfshaft from the transaxle, be sure to install a holding tool to hold the side gear in place while the axle is removed.
To install:

1. Always use a new circlip on the driveshaft and install a new oil seal to the transaxle.
2. Install the halfshaft into the transaxle.

When installing the driveshaft into the transaxle, use oil seal protector tool KV38105500 or equivalent to protect the oil seal from damage; after installation, remove the tool.

1. Align the halfshaft with the hub/knuckle assembly and connect the lower control arm-to-ball joint.
2. On 1982-86 vehicles, connect the lower control arm to the ball joint and tighten the control arm-to-ball joint nuts to 40-47 ft. lbs. (54-64 Nm).
3. On 1987-90 vehicles, connect the lower ball joint to the steering knuckle and tighten the stud nut to 43-54 ft. lbs. (59-74 Nm).
4. Connect the tie rod to the steering knuckle and torque the tie rod stud nut to 22-36 ft. lbs. (30-49 Nm).
5. Install then hub nut and tighten to 87-145 ft. lbs. (118-197 Nm).
6. Install new cotter pin in drive axle and mount the caliper assembly.
7. Install the wheel and tire assembly.
8. Road test for proper operation.

1. Before servicing the vehicle, refer to the Precautions Section.
2. Remove the wheel and tire assemblies.
3. Remove the splash shield, if equipped.
4. Drain the transaxle.
5. Raise the staked portion of the hub locknut with a hammer and chisel. Lock the hub by applying the brakes and loosen the nut.
6. Separate the stabilizer bar from the lower control arm.
7. Remove the cotter pin and nut from the tie rod end ball stud.
8. Remove the tie rod end from the knuckle, using a suitable tool.
9. Remove the lower ball joint pinch bolt and nut.
10. Separate the ball joint from the knuckle, using a prybar on the control arm.
11. Position a prybar between the inner CV-joint and transaxle case. Carefully pry the halfshaft from the transaxle being careful not damage the oil seal. If equipped with a right side intermediate shaft, insert the prybar between the halfshaft and intermediate shaft and tap on the bar to uncouple them.
12. Remove the hub locknut and discard.
13. Pull outward on the hub/knuckle assembly, push the outer CV-joint stub shaft through the hub, and remove the halfshaft. If the halfshaft is stuck in the hub, install the old hub nut to protect the stub shaft threads. Tap on the nut, using only a soft mallet, to remove the halfshaft.
    NOTE Install Differential Side Gear holder K49A-4208-AT, into the transaxle after removing the halfshaft, to keep the differential side gear in position. If the gear becomes out of position the differential may have to be removed to realign the gear.
    
14. Remove the intermediate shaft, if necessary, by removing the support bearing bolts and pulling the shaft from the transaxle.
    
    Fig. Exploded view of the halfshafts and related components
    

To install:

Fig. Support bearing bolt tightening sequence

1. Install a new circlip on the end of the intermediate shaft,
   1. 1.5L, 1.6L (VIN 5), 1.8L install the circlip with the end gap facing upward.
   2. 1.6L (VIN 3), 2.0L, 2.4L and 2.7L install the circlip with end gap facing downward.
   
   
2. Install the intermediate shaft in the transaxle, being careful not to damage the oil seals.
3. Install the support bearing bolts and tighten, in sequence, to 45 ft. lbs. (61 Nm).
4. Install a new circlip on the end of the halfshaft, with the end gap facing upward.
5. Install the halfshaft into the transaxle, being careful not to damage the oil seal.
6. Install the halfshaft into the intermediate shaft, if equipped.
7. Install the other end of the halfshaft through the hub. Loosely install a new locknut.
8. Install the lower ball joint into the knuckle.
9. Install the pinch bolt and nut and tighten to 40 ft. lbs. (54 Nm).
10. Install the tie rod end to the steering knuckle and tighten the nut to 42 ft. lbs. (57 Nm). Install a new cotter pin. Tighten the nut, if necessary, to align the ball stud hole with the nut castellation.
11. Install the stabilizer bar to the lower control arm.
12. Install the splash shield and the wheel and tire assemblies.
13. Lock the hub with the brakes. Tighten the new hub nut to 155-206 ft. lbs. (214-279 Nm). After tightening, stake the locknut using a hammer and dull bladed chisel.
14. Fill the transaxle with the proper type and quantity of fluid.

http://www.autozone.com/autozone/repairinfo/repairguide/repairGuideContent.jsp?chapterTitle=Halfshafts&partName=Drive+Train&pageId=0900c1528002861d&partId=0900c152800285e3