Radio, clock, interior light and central locking not working

This is as a result of a short occurring most likely in the radio harness.

It happened me while working on a customers car. In my case checked all fuses and they all appeared fine, both those under the hood/bonnet and those underneath the steering wheel.

After studying the workshop electrical schemmatics for the car it appears that the clock, interior lights, central locking receiver and radio permanent live/battery are all on the one line.

In effect damage had occurred after the internal fuse panel, therefore all fuses were ok and supplying power across them, but at some point after there was a break in the wire.

However you DO NOT need to remove dash and or replace harnesses to rectify.

Look at the fuse panel underneath the steering wheel. Slot 18 (bottom RHS) and you will see in raised plastic 'BACK UP'. Inserting a 10A fuse here will restore the interior lights, radio, clock and your central locking.

There is a small plastic piece in the way which prevents a fuse going in. Simply use a thin pair of pliers, scissors or a screwdriver (or similar tool) to break this and all pieces of it away until you are able to insert the 10A mini blade fuse.

Problem Sorted!

(I believe the fact this back up exists is because the designers of electrical system at mitsibushi realised it had shortcomings or this would be a potential problem - and included the back up for such an occurence)

Fearghus Quinn
(7 years experienced auto electrician & owner of Car Audio company in Perth Western Australia) This is as a result of a short occurring most likely in the radio harness.

It happened me while working on a customers car. In my case checked all fuses and they all appeared fine, both those under the hood/bonnet and those underneath the steering wheel.

After studying the workshop electrical schemmatics for the car it appears that the clock, interior lights, central locking receiver and radio permanent live/battery are all on the one line.

In effect damage had occurred after the internal fuse panel, therefore all fuses were ok and supplying power across them, but at some point after there was a break in the wire.

However you DO NOT need to remove dash and or replace harnesses to rectify.

Look at the fuse panel underneath the steering wheel. Slot 18 (bottom RHS) and you will see in raised plastic 'BACK UP'. Inserting a 10A fuse here will restore the interior lights, radio, clock and your central locking.

There is a small plastic piece in the way which prevents a fuse going in. Simply use a thin pair of pliers, scissors or a screwdriver (or similar tool) to break this and all pieces of it away until you are able to insert the 10A mini blade fuse.

Problem Sorted!

(I believe the fact this back up exists is because the designers of electrical system at mitsibushi realised it had shortcomings or this would be a potential problem - and included the back up for such an occurence)

Fearghus Quinn
(7 years experienced auto electrician & owner of Car Audio company in Perth Western Australia)

Note - this is a last resort. Check all fuses, including the large 40A, 50A & 60A ones under the bonnet - they all lead to the same line. Get a multi meter and put it on the continuity setting (the one that beeps when you touch the two probes of multimeter together). This setting allows you to ensure that there is continuity, ie a connection (no broken fuse/wire) between any two points. place one probe on the metal on LHS of a fuse, place the other on the RHS metal. If it beeps the fuse is sound, if not you know the fuse has blown. Simple and allows you to check fuses without having to remove each one & visually inspect individually (however some fuses - such as the large ones i mentioned above, will have to be removed and then you use your prongs on the two blades of the fuse. Good luck guys! Hope this all helps Note - this is a last resort. Check all fuses, including the large 40A, 50A & 60A ones under the bonnet - they all lead to the same line. Get a multi meter and put it on the continuity setting (the one that beeps when you touch the two probes of multimeter together). This setting allows you to ensure that there is continuity, ie a connection (no broken fuse/wire) between any two points. place one probe on the metal on LHS of a fuse, place the other on the RHS metal. If it beeps the fuse is sound, if not you know the fuse has blown. Simple and allows you to check fuses without having to remove each one & visually inspect individually (however some fuses - such as the large ones i mentioned above, will have to be removed and then you use your prongs on the two blades of the fuse. Good luck guys! Hope this all helps

The internet amazing. I replaced the stock radio out of my wifes Lancer and the interior lights , clock and central locking wouldn't work. There were extra wires that I didn't know what to do with which must loop back somewhere. Anyway I added this fuse and it all works again. Amazing. The internet amazing. I replaced the stock radio out of my wifes Lancer and the interior lights , clock and central locking wouldn't work. There were extra wires that I didn't know what to do with which must loop back somewhere. Anyway I added this fuse and it all works again. Amazing.

The internet is amazing. I replaced the stock stereo in my wifes lancer and I got the exact symptoms here. I installed the fuse and hey presto. The internet is amazing. I replaced the stock stereo in my wifes lancer and I got the exact symptoms here. I installed the fuse and hey presto.

Thanks Fearghusq! Thanks Fearghusq!

Thank you very much this rectified my problem. but i do have a question is this a temporary solution? or will i have to get wiring fix? Thank you very much this rectified my problem. but i do have a question is this a temporary solution? or will i have to get wiring fix?