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1994 nissan 4X4, 90,000 miles, new tires & shocks. Sometimes (but not all of the time) my brakes make a scrubbing sound when braking and sometimes there is the same scrubbing noise when I make a sharp left hand turn. I had it checked out at Midas but htey said that the breaks looked fine.
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Sounds like you need a brake job (for shuttering when stopping), new tires because of un-even wear, and possibly an alignment (so the next pair of tires don't wear out. While they are checking, they should check the shock absorbers (struts). This is a fairly old car and will likely need stuts and alignment.
If money is tight, look into some used tires. The brake job is not critical until you hear noise. Keep the speed down if you can't afford the alignment and struts.
You need to have the cam belt & water pump replaced at 110,000 miles not 90,000. You should have the transmission fluid changed, brakes & all hoses inspected. The coolant should be drained, thermostat replaced and fresh coolant installed. Of course the air & cabin filter should be replaced every 30,000 miles. The fuel filter is permanent and needs no replacing. Brake fluid should be changed unless you have already had this done. Serpentine belt replaced at 110,000 miles with the cam belt.
On 60,000 maintenance you should replace the air filter, belts, power steerinf fluid, radiator hose, timing belt, and check the battery, brakes, shocks and struts, tires, transmission fluid, and suspension.
Set the e-brake. Break the lugs loose on both sides,don't get crazy,just break them free. Jack one side up & remove the tire. You'll need a 12mm & 14mm wrench or socket for the next step. Remove the 2 bolts holding the brake caliper to the bracket. Use a hefty flat blade screw driver, if needed, to pry the caliper off the disk. Remove the pads & you should clean the rotor & caliper bracket with brake cleaner spray. Next use a "c" clamp to compress the caliper piston. Install the new pads into the caliper bracket. You usually need to angle them into place. They should be flush against the rotor. Re-install the caliper & don't over tighten the bolts. A quarter turn past snug is more than enough(or 100in lbs. if you want specs,lol). Install your tire, hand tighten the lugs, lower the jack, & use whatever you used to take the wheel off to finish tightening. Repeat for the other side. Once done,press the brake a few times until the pedal gets hard. Now it's safe to drive!! Oh, & be sure to use proper saftey precautions, like don't get under the car when it's on a jack! Set the e-brake! Don't work without some one else around, could be fatal. Just be safe.
What about rear brakes, have those been checked out? sometimes even a drum can warp, it could also be an imbalaced tire, maybe even an untrue rim. normally bouncing comes from an imbalance somewhere.
I would say that you have WARPED DISC BRAKE ROTORS which is the beginning and possibly all of your problem. It he suspension such as STRUTS are weak, that will elevate the problem. Hope this helps.
The brake tech may have done something wrong or damaged a wheel sensor, take it back, if the problem started after the work on the brakes it is a safe bet they did something to cause the problem, one note as long as those warning lights are on the ABS and traction assist are disabled, no problem in dry weather, winter another thing.
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