My 2006 Jaguar X type will not start readily in cold weather. I replaced the glowplugs but no difference. Once going it runs fine.

I will try to help. Plugging in your truck may set the P012f code in my opinion because this code is set when there is a 12 to 14 degree between antifreeze and oil temperature. However this is a problem under TSB 09-8-3 which recommends you replace the oil cooler, check the egr cooler and flush the cooling system which does not even address using a block heater. Concerns over burnt oil and oil overheating damage.

P341 is cam sensor, P460 and P463 pertain to fuel level sensors and having more fuel than tank should hold. Tank readings having excessive resistance and do not agree with other components. Suspect wiring or connections.

I will put in a comment about glowplug performance and using a block heater. While warming the block will do some good, the actual atomization of the diesel fuel is from the heat of the glowplugs and compression. Water temperature not so much.

The glowplug works on a series. The power module connects to the glowplug timer which regulates the pulses of power to the glowplugs. The duration of each pulse is affected by both outside and block temperature.

I check my glowplugs with a set of battery jumper cables. You put one cable fixed on the casing so as not to nick the threads of the glowplug. Then touch the other end to the top terminal of the glowplug. BE CAREFUL You can melt a glowplug or blow up a battery if you overdo it. Testing is a matter of comparision. Sometimes you can buy 1 new glowplug to see how it should look when hit with power and then see if the other glowplugs are much darker when hit with power. The dark glowplugs are worn or worn out.

Remember when you hear the timer cycle and the lights in the vehicle blink in unision. That is all the power your glowplugs are going to get. So if they do not glow quickly on your test, it will affect atomization of the fuel for starting.

Hope this helps, there may be glowplug testers that were invented after I retired.

check for4 a faulty air pressure regulator in the system or faulty pressure relief valve.

check and clean both the pos. and neg. cables . also give the battery a good charge.

This is not to hard to solve. The outside airtemp determines how long the Glowplug timer works for absolute cold starts. Starting a warm engine is affected by underhood temps.

The Timer Relay will pulse power to the glowplugs. If the glowplugs are good, it is enough to preheat the cylinder for firing.

To tell if a glowplug is good is a matter of comparision between a new glowplug and a worn glowplug. YOU CAN MELT A GLOWPLUG WITH THIS TEST, but you remove the glowplugs, get a set of battery jumper cables and place one jumper to the base of the glowplug USING CARE not to ruin the threads on the glowplug.

You do not want to arc the spark on the glowplug threads. You want your fixed jumper connector locked on the base of the glowplug. The other battery cable jumper is touched to the top of the glowplug where the arcing occurs. This will not hurt the contact point if done properly.

You compare the "glow" of the old glowplug to the "glow" of the new glowplug. Bad glowplugs stay dark or operate at a darker color.

The Timer Relay gives you pulses and that is all the glowplugs get to heat up. This is what you simulate in your test. If a glowplug operates in a dull or dark condition, it is bad and throw it away. You want all glowplugs to readily light up when power is applied.

The other 2 parts to the system are the Timer Relay and the Power Relay. The timer gets its power from the Power Relay and the Power Relay is like a starter solenoid. The Power relay gets a tickler charge when the keyswitch is held to Start.

There are sometimes extreme cold Timers that hold the power longer tothe glowplugs. I do not have the Specs to tell you if your Timer is kicking out to soon.

I hope my solution helps. I have told you how to test your glowplugs. The timers are affected by air temperature and that makes it difficult to say if it is working long enough. If you know the glowplugs are good, and the timer shuts off before the glowplugs heat up, then you need a new or different type of timer.

Follow your glowplug wires towards the Firewall. The glowplug wire goes into a Timer which is suppose to be internally regulated by outside Temperature and feedback from the glowplugs.

When you are in Cold weather, the Timer is suppose to keep the glowplugs on longer. When the engine is fully warm and you shut it off, you will notice it starts up like a gas engine. First you want to remove your glowplugs and check them by using Jumper cables and heating them up.

Be careful because they can melt or distort if on too long. I usually pull out 4 at a time because it is a comparison test and when you find the quickest, brightest glowplug you measure the others against it. When the glowplug stays dark or does not heat as quickly it is bad. Remember when it is in the engine the glowplug only has bumps of current coming from the Timer to warm up.

Once you are confident the glowplugs are okay, try starting the truck. Or for good measure, just change the Timer, but it will add to the cost.

As for the engine light, if you mean the "check engine" light, you can get that checked free at Autozone, Oreillys, or Advance. I believe Advance may be better equipped to test the PCM.

I hope my solutions are very helpful to you and thanks for using this service.

Hello, A diesel engine depends on the Glowplugs to start when the engine is cold. After the engine is running, it uses compression to continue.

This would mean you have a problem with the Glowplugs and the Glowplug Timer. The Timer is the device which works with the "Ready" light in the dash. The Timer will click off/on and can make the lights dim in sync with the clicks. The Timer is also responsive to temperature change; the colder the outside temperature, the longer the clicks cycle.

You also should pull the glowplugs and individually check them. Usually do 1 Bank at a time so you have 4 to chose from. Take a Battery jumper cable and connect one end to the base of the glowplug without damaging the threads and ground the cable end. Then take the other cable and connect one end to the hot post of the battery.

Touch the top of the Glowplug with the Pos battery jumper and be careful not to melt the Glowplug. When you get a good one it will glow quick and bright. When the glowplug stays dark or takes a long time to glow, it is bad. This is why I recommend doing 4 at a time. It is a matter of comparision. The short time is the real world example of mimicking the Glowplug timer. If you can not heat the Glowplug, the Timer will not either.

Once you get all the Glowplugs working like they should, you can evaluate the Timer. It may need replacing too! If you turn the Key to Run and let the "Ready" light work, the truck should start. If it does not, turn the Key and cycle the Timer 2 or 3 Times. Then try it. By repeated cycling of the Timer, if the truck starts better, it means your Timer is not staying on long enough for the glowplugs to work. Replace the timer.

Keep clean oil in the engine and consider "Flow" products to help the fuel and oil work better in Cold weather.

There is also a TSB 08-18-6. It is about low pressure on the Injection devices. Exhibits hard starting, no start condition.

I hope my solution is very helpful to you. You could give me feedback on the end solution for your problem.

replace the ignition

3-4 years is a long time to run on glow plugs, reason why smokes so bad is you have all that raw fuel from trying to start. Glow plugs have failed, it only takes a few to screw up. but check power to plugs for proper ampherage

You can try insulating your battery (cold might still get thru) or purchasing a solar recharge kit from an aftermarket company. Cold weather will affect the chemical reaction between the plates of the battery and will not put out the high amperage required. I would also recommend to keep a portable battery booster in case you cant get a solar charger. Keep the booster in a warm bag inside your trunk and always charged for when this happens. Keep it during the duration of your winter weather. In summer you will be fine.

Try a different key, the chip in the key is probably bad creating the vehicle not to crank as the exciter ring cannot pick up a signal from the master key.