Question about 2001 Chevrolet Tracker

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Can not get a pedal, replaced master cylinder twice, bled everything, no pedal...can't seem to get fluid out of the 3 front ports on the master cylinder...could both master cylinders be defective, or am I missing something? Vehicle is a 2001 chev. tracker 2.0 liter motor, no abs

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  • Master
  • 432 Answers

Well always start bleeding the farthest one first.Pass.side rear,Dr side rear,Pass.side front then Dr.side last. Did you bentch bleed the Master cyclinder?And make sure not to have the bleeder open when the brake peddal is released.

Posted on Dec 31, 2009

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  • Master
  • 1,608 Answers

Did you bleed the master cylinder before you put it in the vehicle?This usually makes it easier to bleed the entire brake system if this is done before you install the master cylinder.Other wise all you have done is put air in the brake system.The master cylinder kit usually comes with a bleeder kit.This is for bench bleeding the master.Hope this helps.Good luck.

Posted on Dec 31, 2009

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1997 mercury sable gs 3.0l replaced master brake, still having brake pedal feeling spongy and slowly traveling down. i bench bled master brake and bled brake right rear left rear right then front.


If the master cylinder is replaced, care must be taken to prime the new master cylinder by removing all of the air and completely filling it with brake fluid. The spongy feeling is air that is still in the circuits. You will need to bleed the back brakes as well as the front ones again. The order that you bled them seems correct, but perhaps there remained some air in the main trunk lines.

For the best results 2 people are needed. Start at the further distance wheel cylinder and bleed at least three (3) master cylinder reservoir volumes of fluid (back brakes). Bleed the fluid with use of a piece of tubing attached to the bleed port that is long enough to reach almost to the bottom of a long neck or tall clear jar (clear drink bottle works well). When the bleeding begins, after one or two brake pedal pushes, make sure that the end of the tubing is below the surface of the fluid and keep it under. It best to have a clear bleed line (to observe air). Keep pumping the brake pedal while being careful to not completely empty the master cylinder reservoir (leave 1/4 full always). Repeat the same technique for each wheel cylinder with at least two (2) reservoirs full for front brakes. Partially close the bleed ports when almost finished (at least 5 pedal strokes without exit of any air). Completely close the ports during the down stroke of the brake pedal, with the tubing still attached. Be sure each bleed port is closed snuggly.
Most of the brake fluid can be reused, but not the darker portion at the bottom of the jar.

Oct 09, 2016 | 1997 Mercury Sable

2 Answers

Hard brake pedal


My first guess would be the power brake booster is leaking vac.

Jan 25, 2014 | Subaru Impreza Cars & Trucks

1 Answer

No brake pressure


When you bled the system was fluid coming out the bleeder valves?
Where the bleeder valves closed off with the brake pedal fully depressed?
Is the fluid reservoir cap ok?
Is the master cylinder ok?

Jan 05, 2014 | 1995 Chevrolet Cavalier

1 Answer

How to bleed clutch 2007 compass


GRAVITY BLEEDING CLUTCH HYDRAULIC CIRCUIT

1. Verify fluid level in brake master cylinder. Top off with DOT 3 brake fluid as necessary. Leave cap off.

2. Raise vehicle on hoist.

3. Remove bleed port protective cap and install suitable size and length of clear hose (4) to monitor and divert fluid into suitable container.

4. Open up the bleed circuit by turning the thumb screw (3) counter clockwise this will start the air purge and fluid fill process.

5. Lower vehicle, but only enough to gain access to and fill the brake master cylinder. NOTE: Do not allow clutch master cylinder to run dry while fluid exits bleed port.

6. Top off brake master cylinder fluid level while air is purged and fluid drains from bleed port. Continue this until no air bubbles are seen and a solid column of fluid exists.

7. Close hydraulic bleed circuit, remove drain hose and replace dust cap on bleed port.

8. From driver's seat, actuate clutch pedal 60-100 times.

9. Apply parking brake. Start engine and verify clutch operation and pedal feel. If pedal feels fine and clutch operates as designed, stop here. If pedal still feels spongy or clutch does not fully disengage, excessive air is still trapped within the system, most likely at the master cylinder.

10. Top off brake master cylinder fluid level with DOT 3 brake fluid as necessary.

POWER BLEEDING CLUTCH HYDRAULIC CIRCUIT

1. Remove reservoir cap and connect bleeder cap to reservoir. NOTE: Use Bleeder Cap/Modified reservoir cap adapter Snap-on #901-059 or equivalent.

2. Connect service filling machine to bleeder cap. NOTE: Use Service Filling Machine/Brake power bleeder Brake power bleeder or equivalent.

3. Service filling machine should be pressurized to at least 2.5 bar (36 PSI).

4. Remove dust cap from bleeder valve and connect the transparent bleeder hose to bleeder valve.

5. Place the other end of hose in the bleeder container to capture the used fluid. The end of the hose MUST be submerged in the DOT 3 brake fluid.

NOTE: Use Bleeder Container To capture hydraulic fluid and Transparent Bleeder Hose To route fluid to container.

6. Turn on the service filling machine.

7. Crack open the bleeder valve (3).

8. Allow fluid to flow out of bleed port until no more air bubbles can be seen in the transparent bleeder hose.

9. Once fluid is free of air bubbles; make 15 quick actuations between clutch pedal stop positions.

10. Close the bleeder valve and disconnect the service filling machine.

11. To remove remaining air, actuate pedal 10 times slowly between pedal stop positions.

12. Check clutch pedal to see if vehicle is properly bled.

13. If vehicle is not properly bled, repeat procedure.

14. Remove bleeder cap from reservoir and replace reservoir cap.

15. Disconnect transparent bleeder hose from bleeder valve and replace dust cap.

Oct 15, 2013 | 2007 Jeep Compass Limited

1 Answer

How to bleed brakes on 1997 Saturn


The brake system bleeding procedure differs for ABS and non-ABS vehicles. The following procedure pertains only to non-ABS vehicles. For details on bleeding ABS equipped vehicles, refer to the ABS procedures later in this section.

WARNING Make sure the master cylinder contains clean DOT 3 brake fluid at all times during the procedure.
  1. The master cylinder must be bled first if it is suspected of containing air. Bleed the master cylinder as follows:
    1. Position a container under the master cylinder to catch the brake fluid.
    2. Loosen the left front brake line (front upper port) at the master cylinder and allow the fluid to flow from the front port.
    3. Connect the line and tighten to 24 ft. lbs. (32 Nm).
    4. Have an assistant depress the brake pedal slowly one time and hold it down, while you loosen the front line to expel air from the master cylinder. Tighten the line, then release the brake pedal. Repeat until all air is removed from the master cylinder.
    5. Tighten the brake line to 24 ft. lbs. (32 Nm) when finished.
    6. Repeat these steps for the right front brake line (rear upper port) at the master cylinder.
WARNING Do not allow brake fluid to spill on or come in contact with the vehicle' finish, as it will remove the paint. In case of a spill, immediately flush the area with water.
  1. If a single line or fitting was the only hydraulic line disconnected, then only the caliper(s) or wheel cylinder(s) affected by that line must be bled. If the master cylinder required bleeding, then all calipers and wheel cylinders must be bled in the proper sequence:
    1. Right rear
    2. Left front
    3. Left rear
    4. Right front
  2. Bleed the individual calipers or wheel cylinders as follows:
    1. Place a suitable wrench over the bleeder screw and attach a clear plastic hose over the screw end.
    2. Submerge the other end in a transparent container of brake fluid.
    3. Loosen the bleed screw, then have an assistant apply the brake pedal slowly and hold it down. Close the bleed screw, then release the brake pedal. Repeat the sequence until all air is expelled from the caliper or cylinder.
    4. When finished, tighten the bleed screw to 97 inch lbs. (11 Nm) for the front, or 66 inch lbs. (7.5 Nm) for the rear.
  3. Check the pedal for a hard feeling with the engine not running. If the pedal is soft, repeat the bleeding procedure until a firm pedal is obtained.
zjlimited_349.jpg

Fig. 1: Loosen the front brake line in order to bleed the master cylinder

zjlimited_350.jpg

Fig. 2: Connect a bleed hose from the bleed valve on the front caliper to a jar of brake fluid

zjlimited_351.jpg

Fig. 3: Always follow the lettered sequence when bleeding the hydraulic brake system





Hope this helps to solve it; remember to rate this answer.

Dec 29, 2010 | 1997 Saturn SL

1 Answer

I hve a 96 chevy 1500 4wd with brake issues. ABS light is on in the dash. Have replaced both frt calipers, pads, hoses. Replaced rear brakes and drums. Replaced master cylinder. Bled two quarts of...


you may have air trapped in the ABS EHCU. Did you use this procedure?

Bleeding the EHCU

Bleeding the EHCU requires the use of the TECH-1 scanner or its equivalent and the appropriate cartridge. Additionally, 3 tools, J-39177 or equivalent, are required. Bleeding cannot be performed without this equipment.
The EHCU must be bled after replacement or if air is trapped within the unit. It must be bled after bleeding the master cylinder and before bleeding the individual wheel circuits.
The Internal Bleed Valves on either side of the unit must be opened 1 / 4 - 1 / 2 turn before bleeding begins. These valves open internal passages within the unit. Actual bleeding is performed at the two bleeders on the front of the EHCU module. The bleeders must not be opened when the system is not pressurized. The ignition switch must be OFF or false trouble codes may be set.
  1. Open the internal bleed valve 1 / 4 - 1 / 2 turn each.
  2. Install one tool J-39177 on the left bleed stem of the EHCU. Install one tool on the right bleed stem and install the third tool on the combination valve.
  3. Inspect the fluid level in the master cylinder, filling if needed.
  4. Slowly depress the brake pedal and hold it down.
  5. Open the left bleeder on the front of the unit. Allow fluid to flow until no air is seen or until the brake pedal bottoms.
  6. Close the left bleeder, then slowly release the pedal. Wait 15 seconds.
  7. Repeat Steps 4, 5 and 6, including the 15 second wait, until no air is seen in the fluid.
  8. Tighten the left internal bleed valve to 5 ft. lbs. (7 Nm).
  9. Repeat Steps 3-7 at the right bleeder on the front of the unit.
  10. When bleeding of the right port is complete, tighten the right internal bleed valve to 5 ft. lbs. (7 Nm).
  11. Remove the 3 special tools.
  12. Check the master cylinder fluid level, refilling as necessary.
  13. Bleed the individual brake circuits at each wheel.
  14. Switch the ignition ON . Use the hand scanner to perform 3 function tests on the system.
  15. Carefully test drive the vehicle at moderate speeds; check for proper pedal feel and brake operation. If any problem is noted in feel or function, repeat the entire bleeding procedure.

Oct 10, 2010 | Chevrolet 1500 Cars & Trucks

1 Answer

Got a 92 blazer that the brake pedal goes to the floor and is spongy, but also fades/sinks when holding it. I've bled all 4 wheels twice, 1st time bled old out until new came through, felt spongy and goes...


blead from the furthest point forward... so , if your master is on the firewall on the drivers side.. rear right , rear left , right front and then left front...

Sep 30, 2010 | Chevrolet Blazer Cars & Trucks

3 Answers

Just replaced master cylinder on 1990 aerostar and bled the brakes, still the pedal goes to floor and i have no brakes


Did you bench bleed the master cyl. before installing it? then when you installed the new master, did you bleed all 4 points? If yes, then check all for points for leaking caliper/s and leaking wheel cylinder/s. If the van has ABS, check the valve body for a bleeder screw and see if air bleeds out of it. If you've checked everything twice and did everything right then your new master cyl. may be defective.

Apr 29, 2009 | 1986 Ford F 250

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