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The nuts that hold on the upper mounting plate can be accessed by removing the upper deck from behind and above the back seat-clearing the access holes of rubber membrane and using a long extension ratchet. The strut then comes out after the knuckle is disassembled. The upper plate then comes off with a 22mm wrench and a 6mm hex wrench. The old pair has a large Torx instead.nope-figured it out myself.....
The nuts that hold on the upper mounting plate can be accessed by removing the upper deck from behind and above the back seat-clearing the access holes of rubber membrane and using a long extension ratchet. The strut then comes out after the knuckle is disassembled. The upper plate then comes off with a 22mm wrench and a 6mm hex wrench. The old pair has a large Torx instead.
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Here's my tip.... Your springs are what holds the vehicle up, the shock absorbers or struts are to stop it bouncing. Sounds to me like your springs are too soft and cannot hold up the load you are trying to carry.
Working on struts can be dangerous because the spring is under great pressure so caution must be used at all times. Unless you have a suitable spring compressor I would recommend you install complete strut assemblies. They come assembled with allnew parts and you don't need to deal with the spring.
1. Remove tie bar, this is a bar that runs from the top of the struts over the top of the engine 2 nuts on each side. 2. Remove the three strut mount nuts from the top of the struts. 3. Raise and properly support the car on the frame allowing the front control arms to hang free. 5. Remove tires and wheels. 6. Remove ABS speed sensor connector. 7. Remover ABS sensor bracket from strut. 8. Remove brake line bracket from strut. 9. Before you remove the strut strut to knuckle nuts and bolts mark the position of the bolts to knuckle so when you reinstall you can keep the camber correct. 10. Remove strut to knuckle bolts. Note: care must be taken that no damage to the ball joint or CV axle, so retain the knuckle with a bungee strap or something suitable. 11. Remove strut from vehicle.
Install in reverse order.
Tighten the strut to knuckle bolts to 140 foot pounds. Tighten lug nuts to 100 foot pounds.
If you are not sure if you kept the proper camber alignment you should have the front end aligned.
Again, care must be taken at all steps to avoid injury.
The top of the shaft is squared off so a wrench can fit on it.
Slip a box wrench of the correct size over the shaft and round the nut the take a wrenc that fits the shaft and hold it steady whilee you loosen the nut.
They can be stubborn!
No, it isn't... You need: -20" breaker bar -torque wrench -Liquid wrench (or WD-40 if you don't have any) -Jack and stands -sockets to fit all of the connections
1. Remove the back seat: Bottom cushion comes out by pushing it rearwards and lifting, undo the 2 seatbelt bolts and 2 push nuts and remove the back cushion
2. Jack and support the frame of the car 3. Remove the wheels 4. Place a jack under the control arm where the spring connects to it and put a little tension on the spring. (this is so that when you unbolt the strut the control arm won't come crashing down) 5. Remove the air tube by rotating the spring clip 90 degrees and pulling on the tube at the connector. 5. Remove the lower strut bolts. (Exprerience shows me that removing the lower one first will save you lots of agony...) 6. Remove the two strut mounting bolts that are behind the back seat cushion. 7. Compress the strut and remove from the vehicle. 8. Installation is opposite of the removal. Remember to use a new mount if the one you are removing is worn. I recommend Quick-strut 171798. Good Luck!
P.S. Torque Specs are: Lower Strut bolts- 140 ft/lbs Upper strut bolts- 30 ft/lbs Mount to strut bolt - 70ft/lbs
First you must remove the rear seat to gain access to the top strut mounts. The bottom of the rear seat comes out first. On the 91 model there are two tabs at the base of the seat bottm that you pull forward to release the seat bottom. I'm not sure if the 89 is the same. After removal of the rear seat bottom, you will see a bolt at the bottom of each side of the rear seat back that need to be removed. Fold down the arm rest and disconnect the vinyl cover at the base of the armrest to expose and remove two screws. Push up on the rear seat back to unhook three plastic hooks (center and one at each end) at the top of the rear seat back. Remove the seat back. Remove the large metal support panel that is behind the seat back. Safely jack up the rear of the car and support on jack stands so the rear wheels hang free. Doing one strut at a time, remove the two top strut mount bolts leaving the center strut stud nut in place. The strut and mount will lower out of the unibody. Disconnect the bottom strut mount. Remove the strut/coil spring assembly. Using a strut/spring compressor (some auto parts stores rent these) compress the spring. Carefully remove the top strut stud retaining nut, top strut mount, bumpers and strut boot. Carefully install compressed spring, strut boot, bumpers and top strut mount on new strut and install washer and retaining nut. Reinstall strut and etc. in reverse order.
Are you sure you have to pull the back seat? Those strut towers should be behind the seats and therefore should be accessible from the trunk. There might be some carpeting that is covering up the access, and it is probably a little cramped but I believe you can get to them from there.
The top nuts are located from inside of the trunk. If you look behind the material that covers the wheel wells you should find the nuts near the top of the wheel wells.
Yes there are struts on the front and shocks on the back. 2 of each. They are around $50-100 for the fronts. $30-100 for the rears depending if the car has air ride or not.
nope-figured it out myself.....
The nuts that hold on the upper mounting plate can be accessed by removing the upper deck from behind and above the back seat-clearing the access holes of rubber membrane and using a long extension ratchet. The strut then comes out after the knuckle is disassembled. The upper plate then comes off with a 22mm wrench and a 6mm hex wrench. The old pair has a large Torx instead.
NO STRUT COMPRESSOR NEEDED!
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