Proper torque for bolts on front wheel

The hub bearing retaining bolts are 150 ft. lbs the center axle nut primary torque 135 ft.lbs rotate 5-10 times increasing torque by 50 ft.lbs until final torque of 265 ft.lbs is reached

155 Ft/Lb is the correct Torque

http://www.speedwayautoparts.com/Torque%20Specks.pdf

The front wheel bearing is a hub and bearing assembly. To remove you will.... 1. Remove the tire 2. Remove the axle nut. You can put a punch in the fins of the rotor to keep the assembly from turning while you rmove the nut. You can can do the same thing when you torque the axle nut. 3. Remove the caliper and rotor. 4. Unplug the abs sensor if equipped. 5. Remove the three bolts that hold the hub to the knuckle. 6. Rmove the hub. If you need torque specs let me know and i'll get them for you. It is absolutely critical that you torque the axle nut to the proper spec!

I’m happy to assist further over the phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/jeremy_d728a59f986299fa

the front wheels may need balancing or it could be a loose or worn tie rod end or other loose component on the front end, you will need get under the vehicle & have a good look & give the steering components & anything else a good shake to see if you can see anything loose or worn.........hope this helps......cheers.

Most likely a bad wheel bearing assembly, Jack up each wheel individualy starting at right front (passenger) under lower control arm, just enough to get tire of the ground. With tire still on place hands on outside of tire at 3 oclock & 9 oclock & try to move in & out, push & pull. If there is play it will need to be replaced. Check all 4 wheels this way.

The hub, bearing, and ABS sensor are a single unit on this vehicle. You need to remove the wheel, brake rotor & caliper [don't disconnect the brake hose from the caliper, just support it out of the way] and then remove the large nut that holds the axle shaft in the hub assembly. Once you have all this loose or removed you'll find that the hub is held on with 3 fairly large capscrews that come in from the backside of the steering knuckle that the hub attaches too. Assembly is just the reverse of the process. Make sure you tighten all the bolts and nuts securely with a torque wrench [I don't have the torque spec's here] I apply threadlocker to all of these bolts as they are vital to safety. I only use OEM hubs on these as I've had the best luck with them and the ABS sensors inside of them.

Two possible problems both related to that bearing change. 1. Was the bearing packed with grease before it was installed? If not, another new bearing is required properly packed with grease. They don't come packed when you by the bearing, only lubed.
2. Incorrect torque on wheel bearing bolt. If you do not have the specs. a good rule of thumb is with the nut just slightly tight and the wheel and tire installed but jacked up, spin the tire by hand and tighten the bolt to a point that the tire will not make 1 full revolution. JUST! ie. 355 degrees.

Good luck

Let me know

They are simple bolt-in units, though make sure you remove the axle nut and get it loose before loosening the wheel bearing bolts. Check with a manual or a dealer for the proper torque spec.

Did you try rotating the tires maybe front to back to see if noise disappears or moves with the tire? Otherwise maybe a wheel bearing.