Park lights stopped working fuse is good

when did you see car work perfectly before, never or 10 years ago or?
check fuses, not change them. there are 3 ways to test all fuse, looks, ohms and volts.
3 ways.
and 2 to 3 fuses boxes, cab and engine bay and some cars have trunk fuses, the service manual covers all this.
worst is not telling all thing failing and all things not failing. (in brief the good)
gee does car drive ok ????????
held lamps work? and all 12 parking lamps
brake lamps all dead cause park shifter lockout failure.
heater blower dead on high
radio works, electrics on cars is complex 25 fuse and 100 loads. or more. off them in huge tree structure
lets do stop lamps dead. (#1 cause of park lockout is this
battery not bad and is fully charged to 12.6vdc rested
head lamps work
engine starts and runs ,drives. is first fact not told.
(the serial path of power)
STOP fuse good 15amp fuse in the fuse box
STOP switch good to pedal
switch White wire hot all the time, even key off
switch wire out g-w is hot 12vdc stepping on the brake
if not the switch is bad.
next this g-w wire goes to park lockout page
the the SHIFT LOCKOUT ECU.(oxymoron named)
they mean shift lock controller, in truth.
SL ECU has 10 pins.
1 is , stop wire. above (hot when stopping)
and this SL ECU must energize the lockout solenoid
or you can not shift the shifter out of park
the CIG FUSE not blown or ACC pin goes dead on
SL ECU.
ECU-IG fuse not blow or no power to SL_ECU
the 3 pin shift lock control switch not bad. at shifter.
key present switch not bad
engine runs , means other fuses to SL-ECU are good.
that is, windows bad is a whole other ball game and lots of tests. to do there. using a voltmeter is best.


this is SL controller below all inputs must be good.

https://eautorepair.net/Marketing/Default.asp

Lexus? car? a USA car?
well park lockout works off of BRAKE lamps good.
so you must fix, brake lamps first
and the fuses for brake lamps checked.
Fuse F11 is blown
or brake lamp switch is bad.
if fuse blows again the stop light wring or a lamp is shorted.
got trailer hitch wiring mess at the rear?

Check the wire grounds where the lens connect to the vehicle. With a test light check to make sure current is arriving at the bulbs. If not, then follow the wires back to the light switches.

did you check ALL the fuses? There is a fuse box in the engine compartment as well as one behind the kick plate either by the driver side or the passenger side, on some vehicles on both sides inside the car.
If the instrument lights stopped working, there is a good chance that some or all of the park lights are also out, especially if the problem was caused by a faulty trailer plug which affects the park lights, stop lights and indicator lights only.

The problem is with the brake lights, there is a solenoid which prevents you taking the vehicle out of park unless you have your foot on the brake, the solenoid is wired into the brake light circuit. Bridge the two wires to the switch and see if the brake lights come on, that eliminates the switch, as the horn has stopped working as well the chances are it is a fuse. To test a fuse, remove it from the box and use a multi meter set on resistance and check for continuity, if they are all ok, you are looking for a wiring fault! You could try using a live fused fly lead from the battery direct to the brake light switch to put the brake lights on, and see if the vehicle will come out of park. Then it's just a matter of finding the wiring break? Try all connectors. Good Luck

Try checking out your light bulbs in parking and backup light locations. Sometimes when one bulb goes out or just comes loose, it stops the entire circuit from operating.

you have to check all fuses with a test light both fuse boxes under hood and under dash... if good next to look for is the light switch itself... has any radio work been done to the lately... if so alot of times hooked up wrong will blow park fuse as one of the wires to radio is the park voltage to tell radio to dim down some

are you putting back the correct amp fuse.