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Cut the damaged section off with a line cutter and take it to the parts store for sizing, and brass compression fittings to attach it to the lines in the car.
You must make sure that (1)the line is tight but not over ightened if over ightened the flare has cracked and must be replaced (2)be sure you are flaring the tubing correctly that the tubing is sitting properly in the flaring block and that your are cutting the tubing evenly (3)inspect the fitting on the master cylinder and that the new line fitting is// the proper size////metric or sae/////and the master cylinder fitting is not cracked===== also the brass block is a union for both rear wheels you will see the other lines coming out to each wheel unless it' up front then that is a proportional valve ok but I think you have either a cracked line or fitting from over tightening or you are trying to mate an sae fitting with a metric one or improper flaring and crooked tube cutting good luck stephen
Hello, I can tell you where everything is at. Did all my lines in Feb 2011. The rear lines on a F150 come from each rear wheel and they are rubber until the end of their brackets. Metal lines take over and meet at a vent tube holder on the Drivers side of the axle. An overhead rubber line with a splitter is bolted to a threaded vent tube and each rear wheel line fits in the brass block that is part of the Rubber line.
Each rear wheel line has a different size fitting to avoid mix ups. The brake line is the same diameter throughout. All use inverted flare fittings. It is a pain to get the fittings beforehand as they are mixed sizes.
The rubber line with a splitter meets a metal line topside of the frame around the frame hump for the rear wheels. The line is on rubber hangers as it travels toward the front of the truck and meets a metal union just short of the fuel filter. The metal line goes through the frame and tightly runs past the bottom of the Drivers fender and goes outside the frame until it meets the front wheelwell.
The same line crosses back into the inside of the frame and runs parallel with the frame, past the A arms and then ends up attaching to the ABS unit.
The Dealer probably does not have preformed lines. Every combination of bedsize and cabsize will determine how long some of the brake lines are. (Based on wheelbase.)
You have 2 choices. Get a preformed Stainless kit with front lines too, around $200. Make your own and spend hours assembling, bending, and flaring fittings after buying the line and the fittings.
You can go with cheap lines or use what I did, a copper/nickel mixed metal line that Volvo perfected with an extended salt corrosion resistance. It really is a job you only want to do once.
Gotta hand it to the brake mechanics who do it every day.
Here is a Summary. 2 Rubber hoses from each wheel, 2 metal lines to the threaded brass block on the vent tube. 1 rubber hose with the brass block. Then a long run of brakeline, then a connection around the fuel filter, and another long run of brakeline outside and back inside the frame to the ABS unit.
I wish you luck on this repair. I hope my Solution is very helpful.
I assume you are asking which resovoir in a split master cylinder is the one for the front brakes? It will almost always be the larger one if they are different sizes and that one will be closest to the firewall. (rearmost on the master cylinder)
they don't sell this line already made to fit, u must buy a peice of correct size bulk straight brake line, then using special tools bend it and double flair the ends, the tools to do this cost about as much as having someone do it for you, plus if you don't know how to use the tools properly u can end up with a line leak and loss of pressure, very dangerous, let a pro do the job.
go here for helphttp://groups.yahoo.com/group/villagerqu...
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