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Posted on Dec 08, 2009
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I purchased a1959 544 And both battery posts are connected to ground this is not correct and the heater fan says 6 volt is this system positive ground?

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  • Expert 93 Answers
  • Posted on Feb 12, 2010
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Look at battery and idenify neg and poss posts if the cabel from neg post is connected to the starter solenoid then it is poss earth no way can both be connected to ground it would cause a dead short

  • Anonymous Feb 12, 2010

    look at battery and idenify neg and poss posts if the cabel from neg post is connected to the starter solenoid then it is poss earth no way can both be connected to ground it would cause a dead short

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I have a 1955 T-bird, 6 volt positive ground. Does the overdrive wire from the kick-down switch to the coil connect to the positive or negative post? Thanks

Depends if it is positive or negative earth.
If negative earth, the positive post. If positive earth, negative post.
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Procedure to diagnose dtc p0526 2005 gmc envoy 4.2L

DTC P0526 Cooling Fan Speed Sensor Circuit

Circuit Description
The powertrain control module (PCM) uses the cooling fan speed signal in order to determine the actual fan speed in relation to the desired fan speed. The PCM uses the cooling fan speed signal in order to reduce the cooling fan noise and in order to maintain the powertrain cooling requirements. The PCM supplies power and ground to the clutch hall effect sensor of the cooling fan clutch. The hall effect sensor returns a signal pulse through the speed signal circuit in response to the reluctor track, which is located inside the fan clutch. If during operation, the PCM detects a loss of the cooling fan speed signal, DTC P0526 will set.


Do you know how to test electrical circuit's ?

Diagnostic Aids
• An inline connector could cause an intermittent DTC. Ensure to test for poor connections and pin retention at all inline connectors. Refer to system schematics for connectors and locations.
• If the condition is not present, refer to Testing for Intermittent Conditions and Poor Connections .
• Disconnect the harness connector of the cooling fan clutch from the shroud. Inspect the exposed wires between the harness connector and the tubing.
• Inspect the cooling fan clutch harness in order to ensure that the clutch supply voltage circuit is not shorted to the following circuits:
- The 5-volt reference circuit
- The cooling fan speed signal circuit
- The low reference circuit
• DTC P0526 will set if the engine is started without the drive belt ON.


Connector End View Reference: Cooling System Connector End Views
1
Did you perform the Diagnostic System Check - Vehicle?
--
Go to Step 2
Go to Diagnostic System Check - Vehicle
2
Turn OFF the ignition.
Disconnect the cooling fan clutch harness connector at the shroud.
Connect a jumper wire between each of the following circuits:
• The 5-volt reference circuit
• The cooling fan speed signal circuit
• The low reference circuit
Measure the voltage of the cooling fan speed sensor circuit and a good ground.
Turn ON the ignition, with the engine OFF.
Manually rotate the cooling fan clutch.
Does the voltage change from 0 to 5 volts?
0-5 V
YES - Go to Step 9
NO - Go to Step 3
3
Disconnect the jumper wires.
Measure the voltage between the 5-volt reference circuit and the low reference circuit of the cooling fan clutch.
Is the voltage measurement near than the specified value?
5 V
YES - Go to Step 6
NO - Go to Step 4
4
Turn OFF the ignition.
Probe the low reference circuit of the cooling fan clutch with a test lamp connected to battery positive voltage.
Does the test lamp illuminate?
--
YES - Go to Step 5
NO - Go to Step 8
5
Test the 5-volt reference circuit of the cooling fan clutch for a high resistance, or for an open. Refer to Circuit Testing and to Wiring Repairs .
Did you find and correct the condition?
--
YES - Go to Step 14
NO - Go to Step 6
6
Test the cooling fan speed signal circuit of the cooling fan clutch for a short to ground, for a high resistance, or for an open. Refer to Circuit Testing and to Wiring Repairs .
Did you find and correct the condition?
--
YES - Go to Step 14
NO - Go to Step 7
7
Test the cooling fan speed signal circuit of the cooling fan clutch for a short to voltage. Refer to Circuit Testing and to Wiring Repairs .
Did you find and correct the condition?
--
YES - Go to Step 14
NO - Go to Step 10
8
Test the low reference circuit of the cooling fan clutch for a high resistance or for an open. Refer to Circuit Testing and to Wiring Repairs .
Did you find and correct the condition?
--
YES - Go to Step 14
NO - Go to Step 11
9
Disconnect the jumper wires.
Test the cooling fan speed signal circuit of the cooling fan clutch for an open. Refer to Circuit Testing and to Wiring Repairs .
Did you find and correct the condition?
--
YES - Go to Step 14
NO - Go to Step 11
10
Inspect for a poor connection at the harness connector of the cooling fan clutch. Refer to Testing for Intermittent Conditions and Poor Connections and to Connector Repairs .
Did you find and correct the condition?
--
Go to Step 14
Go to Step 12
11
Inspect for poor connections at the harness connector of the PCM. Refer to Testing for Intermittent Conditions and Poor Connections and to Connector Repairs .
Did you find and correct the condition?
--
Go to Step 14
Go to Step 13
12
Replace the cooling fan clutch. Refer to Fan Clutch Replacement .
Did you complete the replacement?
--
Go to Step 14
--
13
Replace the PCM. Refer to Control Module References for replacement, setup, and programming.
Did you complete the replacement?
--
Go to Step 14
--
14
Use the scan tool in order to clear the DTCs.
Operate the vehicle within the Conditions for Running in the DTC.
Does the DTC reset?
--
Go to Step 2
System OK
0helpful
1answer

IS THE 1951 Packard POS GROUND OR NEG AND IS T A 6 VOLT SYSTEM?

51`s were positive ground and 6 volts. count the battery caps. if there is 3 caps its 6volts, if there is 6 caps its 12 volts. sometimes if its not original someone may have converted it 12 volts.
2helpful
1answer

2003 kia sedona wont charge battery with new alternator

well are you sure that you have a good or it just shows the correct amount of voltage. which that should 12.6 volts for a fully charged battery. to actually answer your question, (assuming)
you do have a good battery your alt. shouldn't keep it from cranking unless it is locked up, but you would use a digital volt meter and select the d.c. volts setting touch the red (positive lead) to the red (positive post) on the battery and the ground ( black lead ) to the ground terminal on the battery (negative post). it should read very close to 14 volts. if not check to see if you are getting voltage to your alt. by using your volt meter to test the power wire going to your alt. it will be the one on the backside of your alt with a protective boot over it. with your volt meter still set on dc volts touch your black lead lead to a good ground and your red lead to your power wire going to your alt. it should have 12 volts there. if not check your fuses. if your car clicks when you try to start it then you may have a bad battery connection. dirty terminals with corrosion built up on them will do the same thing. also a starter that is bad will click because the bendix can't kick out to engage the flywheel to turn your engine over. well hope i answered your question and then some.
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2answers

1993 rodeo not running no power to fuel pump

if there is no power to the fuel pump check relays and fuses....UNDERHOOD FUSE & RELAY PANEL IDENTIFICATION Fig. 2: Underhood Fuse & Relay Panel Identification Courtesy of ISUZU MOTOR CO. Fusible Link Identification ? A - 80 Amp (1991-92 3.1L) ? A - 60 Amp Main-1 ? B - 30 Amp Main-2 ? C - 30 Amp (1993-94) ECM (3.2L) ? D - 30 Amp Condenser Fan (A/T Models) Relay Identification ? 1 - Headlight Relay ? 2 - A/C - Heater Relay ? 3 - Starter Relay ? 4 - A/C Compressor Relay ? 5 - Charge Relay ? 6 - Fuel Pump Relay ? 7 - ECM Relay ? 8 - Wiper Relay Fuse & Circuit Breaker Identification ? 1 - 15 Amp (1991) ECM, Fuel Injection System ? 1 - 15 Amp (1992-94 2.6L) ECM, Fuel Injection System ? 1 - 10 Amp (1992-94 3.1 & 3.2L) Heated Oxygen Sensor, Fuel Injection System ? 2 - 20 Amp (1991-92) Fuel Pump ? 2 - 20 Amp (1993-94 2.6L) Fuel Pump ? 2 - 15 Amp (1993-94 3.2L) Fuel Pump ? 3 - 10 Amp (1991) ? 3 - 15 Amp (1992-94) Turn Signal Lights, Hazard Warning Flasher Lights ? 4 - 10 Amp Horn, Door Locks ? 5 - Not Used (1991 3.1L) ? 5 - 10 Amp Charging System, Charge Warning Light WARNING: Always disconnect battery ground cable before servicing "high- current fuses. It is recommended that "high-current" fuses be replaced by a qualified technician. Page 1 of 2 FUSES & CIRCUIT BREAKERS -1994 Isuzu Rodeo LS? 6 - Not Used (1991) (1992-93 2.6L) ? 6 - 10 Amp (1992-94 3.1L & 3.2L) A/T Interlock System ? 6 - 10 Amp (1994 2.6L) Heated Oxygen Sensor, Fuel Injection System ? 7 - 20 Amp Heater/Air Conditioning Blower Controls ? 8 - 10 Amp Air Conditioner Compressor Controls ? 9 - 10 Amp Right Headlight ? 10 - 10 Amp Left Headlight © 2008 Mitchell Repair Information Co., LLC.
62217_isuzfuse_1.jpg
Underhood fuse block swap out relay #7 thats the ECM relay.
Ground Circuits Using a DVOM, touch negative voltmeter lead to a good ground. Touch positive voltmeter lead to each ground terminal. With vehicle running, voltmeter should indicate less than one volt. If reading is greater than one volt, check for open, corrosion and loose connection on ground lead. See ECM GROUND LOCATION table for ECM ground location.
Page 1 of 1 SYSTEM/COMPONENT TESTS - 2.6L EFI -1994 Isuzu Rodeo
0helpful
2answers

Heater fan does not work

While you have the fan out, connect the positive lead and negative lead to the battery. If it powers up, then your problem is most likely the switch or resistor.
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2answers

My 1997 jeep grand cherokee tsi with a 5.2 seems to have a charging problem. the alternator is a year old and was tested twice in the last week at 2 different locations and was shown to be good. same thing...

How is the pigtail ground strap from engine block to body? Have you had engine diagnostic test done? Voltage rVOLTAGE DROP TEST
A voltage drop test is the only effective way to find excessive resistance in high amperage circuits. It's a quick and easy test that doesn't require any disassembly and will quickly show you whether or not you've got a good connection or a bad one.
To do a voltage drop test, you create a load in the circuit that's being tested. Then you use a digital volt meter (DVM) to measure the voltage drop across the live connection while it is under the load. Voltage always follows the path of least resistance, so if the circuit or connection being tested has too much resistance some of the voltage will flow through the DVM and create a voltage reading.
voltage_drop.jpg

If a connection is good, you should find little or no voltage drop and see less than 0.4 volts for most connections, and ideally less than 0.1 volts. But if you find more than a few tenths of a voltage drop across a connection, it indicates excessive resistance and a need for cleaning or repair.
CHECKING THE STARTER CIRCUIT
To check the starter circuit for excessive resistance, you need to measure the voltage drop at the battery, battery cable connections and starter while the engine is being cranked.
The first check is "available battery voltage." For the starter to crank at normal speed, the battery must be at least 75% charged (12.4 volts or higher). Low battery voltage can not only affect the starter but every other electrical system in the vehicle.
A. Set your DVM to the 20 volt scale, then connect meter positive (+) lead to battery positive (+) post (not the clamp or cable), and the meter negative (-) lead to battery negative (-) post.
B. Disable the engine so it will not start when it is cranked. (Ground the ignition coil wire, or disable the ignition circuit or fuel pump relay.) Limit cranking time to 15 seconds or less.
C. While cranking the engine, record the volt reading on the DVM. D. Next, connect your meter positive (+) lead to the battery terminal stud on the starter, and the meter negative (-) lead to the starter housing.
E. While cranking the engine, record the volt reading.
F. Compare the two voltage readings. If both are the same, there are no excessive voltage drops on the positive feed side.
G. If available voltage at the starter is not within one (1) volt of battery voltage, there is excessive voltage drop in the circuit.
The next test is for voltage drop on the positive side of the starter circuit.
A. Make sure the battery is fully charged.
B. Disable ignition.
C. Set DVM on 2 volt scale.
D. Connect meter positive (+) lead to positive (+) battery post, and the meter negative (-) lead to the battery terminal stud on the starter. While cranking the engine, record the voltage reading.
The maximum allowable voltage drop including the solenoid or external relay in the starter circuit should be 0.6 volts or less.
If you find more than a 0.6 volt drop in the starter circuit, you can isolate the bad connection by using the following voltage drop tests.
* Check the positive battery post and cable connection by measuring the voltage drop between the two while cranking the engine. Connect the meter positive lead to the battery post and the meter negative lead to the cable clamp. A good post/cable connection should have zero voltage drop.
* Check the positive battery cable by measuring the voltage drop end to end while cranking the engine. Connect the meter positive lead to the clamp on the positive battery cable, and the meter negative lead to the end of the cable at the starter. Crank the engine and note the voltage reading. A good cable should have a voltage drop of 0.2 volts or less.
* To check the starter solenoid or relay connections, connect the meter positive lead to positive battery terminal on the solenoid or relay, and the meter negative lead to the starter motor terminal. Crank the engine and note the reading. A good connection should have a voltage drop of 0.2 volts or less.
Next, you need to check the negative side of the starter circuit. To check the entire circuit, connect the meter positive lead to a clean spot on the starter motor case and the meter negative lead to the negative battery post. Crank the engine and note the reading. The voltage drop on the negative side should be 0.3 volts or less.
If the voltage drop is too high, set your DVM to the 2 volt scale and start checking each connection on the negative side to find the bad connection or cable. Use the DVM leads to check across each connection while cranking the engine as before.
Check the negative battery post/ground cable connection (should be zero voltage drop).
Check the negative ground cable from the battery to the engine (should be 0.2 volts or less).
Check between the negative battery post and starter housing (should be 0.3 volts or less).
Check between the engine block and starter housing (should be 0.10 volts or less).
CHECKING THE CHARGING CIRCUIT
To check the alternator connections on the positive side for excessive resistance:
A. Set DVM on 2 volt DC scale.
B. Connect the meter positive lead to the alternator output stud (B+ terminal).
C. Connect the meter negative lead to the positive (+) battery post.
D. With the engine running at 1,800 to 2,000 rpm with all lights and accessories on (except the rear electric defroster), check the voltage drop reading. It should be 0.5 volts or less. If higher, the connections between the alternator output stud and battery need to be cleaned. Also, look for loose connections or undersized cables.
To check the alternator connections on the negative side for excessive resistance:
A. Set DVM on 2 volt DC scale.
B. Connect meter negative lead to alternator case.
C. Connect meter positive lead to battery negative (-) post.
D. With engine running at 1,800 to 2,000 rpm with all lights and accessories on (except rear defogger), check the voltage drop reading. On the negative side, it should be 0.2 volts or less. If excessive, the connections need cleaning or the negative cable needs to be replaced. Some alternators are mounted in rubber bushings and have a separate ground strap. If so equipped, be sure to check the voltage drop across this strap, too.

egulator checked with voltmeter?
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Hello, i think the fan on my 92 volkswagen jetta is broken

Do you mean the radiator fan ? Or the heater fan ? if it is the radiator fan, you can check it. Pull apart the plug where the heater recieves current. It is clipped on, you remove it by pressing the clip and pulling on it. Take some wires and pull of a liittle bit of the rubber insulation form both ends and connect the wires to the battery positive and to ground. Place the other end of the wire in the positive of the FAN wire male end. You had previously removed. And to ground on the wire male plug. The fan is supposed to turn smoothly and at a good speed at 12 volts from the battery. if it does not, your fan needs replacement.
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Voltage drop test

First, check battery post to cable connection: positive meter lead on battery positive post, negaitve lead on battery's positive cable clamp. Crank the engine and note the reading. A good connection should have zero voltage drop. Second, check the positive cable: positve meter lead on positive battery clamp, negative lead on starter terminal connector. A good cable will show a voltage drop of .2 volts or less while cranking. Third, check the starter connection: positive meter lead on positive battery terminal on the solenoid, negative meter lead on actual starter stud. A good connection will have a voltage drop of near zero volts. Now to check the negative side of the circuit. Total drop on the ground side should be .3 volts or less and can be checked by placing positive meter lead on starter housing and negative meter lead on battery ground post. Take your reading while cranking the engine, and be sure your connection at the starter is solid and clean. If total voltage drop on this side of the circuit is excessive, complete testing at all connections in the same fashion as the positive side of the circuit. Check the following: between battery post and clamp (zero voltage drop), cable end at battery to cable end at engine. (.2 volts or less), cable end at engine to engine itself (near zero voltage drop), and finally between starter housing and engine block (.1 volts or less).

To read the entire procedure for all automotive systems read this artile:
http://www.engine-light-help.com/voltage-drop.html
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