Replaced rear calipers and pads now the peddal in soft and goes right to the floor lines have been blead

Michael:

You must start bleeding the brakes at the wheel farthest from the master cylinder (usually the right rear), then the next farthest from the master cylinder, then the next, then the closest. If your master cylinder is at the left front of the car, start with the right rear, then the left rear, then the right front, then the left front. If you don't bleed the brakes in the correct order, you are just shifting the air in the lines from one line to another. Make sure that you close the bleeder before letting the brake pedal up, and the engine should not be running when you bleed the brakes... Make sure that the emergency brake is off. Make sure that the master cylinder does not run out of brake fluid at any time that you are bleeding the brakes.

yes may need to bleed lines at master cylnder

the master cyclinder is divided into diagonal wheels. meaning that each line from the master cyclinder provides fluid to a front wheel and rear wheel. on the front resevoir of the master cyclinder it would be perhaps the left front and right rear brake for example. you need to block the lines going to the rear wheels independently and then bleed the brakes again starting with the wheel furthest from the master cyclinder.

remove wheel
remove pads, they just clips on to the caliper and will pop right off with a screwdriver.
There are 2 different kinds of calipers that ford uses. on oine you will be able to take a c-clamp and force the piston back into the caliper. ON the other type you have to have a $10 tool from oriellys. This tool will hook to the backside of the caliper and turn the piston back in. ONce the piston is backed off, clip on new pads, and slide over rotor. Should be 1 pad on each side of the rotor.

there is no need to bleed the brakes unless you loosen lines which you shouldnt have to do.

Its not air leak, you must bleed air from system. You have to bench bleed the master cylinder, then bleed each caliper starting from the right rear, then left rear, then front right, then front left. If you've already done this, then do it again, you must have air in your lines or they would work. The only other thing could be your rubber lines are bad and swelling(absorbing the hydraulic pressure) but they would have to both be completely mush.

h i from uk if pedal was ok prior to pads change ? then pardon me for suggesting go back to each caliper and make sure you have fitted the spring that hold caliper to its mounting correctly as if not this will allow pads to withdrawer when pedal off but will be able to pump pedal to good feel also these springs do not come into contact with outer pads ! they only keep caliper sprung/secure in placealso have you bled the front calipers ? it is a fact that your brake fluid does absorb moisture over time and also fluid absorbs high temps by conduction from pads and thro the piston of caliper resulting in fluid being o/heated over time then it becomes compressable hence spongy pedal occures it is recommended in service shedules that fluid be flushed at intervals /12 months ? to confirm a point if you blead calipers into clear jar ? you will notice 1st couple of pumps you bleed the flui will be dark brown/black ? b4 freash clear fluid emerges just try it ? you should do this each time work such as new pads/shoes are fitted on any vehicle if you have any more info as to what you discover please come back with results as your vehicle is 2006 i would not suspect there is a fault that req's more expendature at this time ?

start by bleeding the master cylinder bleed the line closest to the fire wall, then proceed to the right rear wheel, left rear wheel, right front wheel, and then the left front wheel.

bleed the brake again. if the pedal goes to the floor with little resistance, then the master cylinder is your problem.
the shim is to depress the noise when you applied the brake. you can skip that, if the brake works without it.

Did the peddel go to the floor when the breaks went out before you replaced pads and lines? If it did than its the master cyl. If you replace the master cyl. yourself just remember you have to bench bleed it before you install it. The new master cyl. will come with instructions on how to do that. The calipers will not do what you discribed unless they have a major leak. Also after you install the new master cyl. chanses are all the breaks will have to be blead, starting with right rear, left rear, right front, left front. In that order.

are your rear drums set up? why did you bleed the brakes. when only when you installed new pads?