Cams need to be put back after being removed where do they go?

You have to put compressed air into the cyl to hold the valves up (tool goes in place of spark plug)remove rocker cover ,remove cam, belt or chain !Put engine on TDC and mark valve timing dot,s on cam wheels so it goes back together the same , replace the seals one cyl. at a time,white out makes a good marker fo cam marks.

Quick fix timing TDCproblem 0. Jack up car on passenger's side, block up for safety. 1. Remove tire #17 lug bolts
2. Remove skirt #10 2 bolts
3. Set crank to TDC "0" #17 bolt on crankshaft. 4. Loosen Power steering pump adjuster bolt #14 remove beltoff pulley. 5. Push PS pump back to fire wall far as possible. 6. Remove both bolts lower dog bone #14 bolts. they are a dog to get off.
6b step one withbraker bar get them loose. 6c Get smaller 1/4" socket wrench to fit on it. #14 1/4 to slip on it in a tight place. 6d Removebolts. Put in lower bone bolts in a cup for i.d.
7. Remove upper dog bolts. Put it upper dog bone cup. 8. Take out dog bone. parts 9. Remove bolts holding in upper timing belt cover. put intiming belt cover cup. 10. Remove upper timing belt cover. Yellow 11. unlock tichner #14 push down on tinchner lock it to makeloose belt. remove thespring with needle nose pliers if it makes it eazy. 12 MOVE CAM TO SEE THE HOLE AND THE ROUND HOLE BEHIND IT,NOT THE OTHER MARK.AS THE BOOK SAYS. THE ROUND HOLE IS ABOUT 5DEG BEFORE THESLIT MARK THAT YOU DON'T WANT TO USE. 13 SLIP THE BELT BACK ON CENTER THE TENCHIN ON THE BELT INBOTH DIRECTIONS FROMTHE CAM SHAFT. ONE TOOTH BACK OF FOWARD RECHECK CAM ANDCRANK MARKS. TIGHTEN IT UP TIME. 14 RELEACE TISHINGNER, TIGHTEN BELT PUSH CAM TO THE LEFT. TO GET TIGHT INBOTH DIRECTIONS TEST FOR PLUCK TONE. 15 START UP CHK TIMING WITH LIGHT. 16 BUT POWER STERING PUMP BACK TIGHT. 17 PUT TIMING COVER BACK ON 18 REINSTALL DOG BONE 19 PUT SKRIT BACK ON 20 PUT TIRE BACK ON. TEST IT ON 3 TRIPS.

hi, normally the camshafts have a timing GROOVE at the back. if you select a suitable length of flat bar and place into the GROOVE. you will also need to TIME UP the CRANKSHAFT and INJECTION PUMP. these can MOVE and DAMAGE WILL OCCUR.

the camshafts are marked IN and EX

p.s. you did not give a YEAR or PETROL / DIESEL or TYPE. gerry

Not terribly complicated. Set the crankshaft at TDC on timing scale before you start, as a reference. If the cover is off just stick it back on there for a minute and same for harmonic balancer.
Once you have done that you should see a mark on the lower gear, either straight up at the top or straight down (if at bottom, put damper back on and turn till it points up.) You should be able to find a corresponding mark on the cam gear. That mark needs to point down, directly at the one on the crank gear. To do that, loosely install the cam gear on the cam and turn it till it lines up. Remove the cam gear and place the chain over it and the bottom gear. do not change the crank or cam position. To check for proper alignment, put the balancer on the crank ant turn it exactly two turns. the marks should return to original indexing. Make sure you have everything tightened up and then put the remainder of the engine back together.

You probably can't. They are "Sweat fitted" when they are made. The cam is heated and put into it's EXACT position, onto a cold shaft. When the cam cools, it is locked into place. If you try to move it by heating it, you will be heating the shaft too. You will also be changing the hardness of the metal. Bad news is--you need to buy another cam shaft.

its a long process. if automatic with ac you must leave radiator on. whick doesnt give you any room but take off the fan, fan shroud and big pully. remove thermostat, must replace termostat housing gasket! 1.99 at oreillys. remove timing cover and finally the timing belt. you must time it just right or will not start. left cam is INTAKE so the I should be straight up at 12 o'clock you;ll see a notch for each cam, right side is EXHAUST so the E should be straight up at 12 o'clock. move tensioner pully to the left and lock by tightening the bolt. as you hold the intkae cam in place have someone else hold the exhaust cam in place both with right size wrenchs. put timing belt on correctly and keep tension on belt. losen tensioner pully and loc it back in place. put every thing on and start.

YOU NEED TO COMPRESS THE BELT TENSIONER IN A VISE STICK A PAPER CLIP IN IT TO HOLD IT IN UNTIL YOU GET TIMING BELT IN PLACE.THEN YOU PUT TENSIONER IN.DONT REMOVE PAPER CLIP OR UNLOAD IT UNTIL YOU GET TIMING MARKS ON CAMSPROCKETS AND CRANK SHAFT LINE UP RIGHT.IF YOUR BELT TENSIONER IS THE ORIGINAL I WOULD REPLACE IT.YOU ALSO NEED A MANUAL.MAKE SURE TIMING MARKS IS RIGHT.IF NOT YOU GOING TO HAVE VALVES AND PISTON DAMAGE.

they should be marks on the cam gears take the #1 plug out take a long screwdriver put in cyld. hole have someone turn crank with wrench till it gets dead top and check the mark on crank then put belt back on start befor u put back to gether should start

its a long process. if automatic with ac you must leave radiator on. whick doesnt give you any room but take off the fan, fan shroud and big pully. remove thermostat, must replace termostat housing gasket! 1.99 at oreillys. remove timing cover and finally the timing belt. you must time it just right or will not start. left cam is INTAKE so the I should be straight up at 12 o'clock you;ll see a notch for each cam, right side is EXHAUST so the E should be straight up at 12 o'clock. move tensioner pully to the left and lock by tightening the bolt. as you hold the intkae cam in place have someone else hold the exhaust cam in place both with right size wrenchs. put timing belt on correctly and keep tension on belt. losen tensioner pully and loc it back in place. put every thing on and start.

1. Remove the passenger headlight and disconnect the negative terminal of the battery
2. Drain the radiator.
3. Remove the driver’s side headlight
4. Remove the upper radiator cowl. (That’s the big metal piece running across the front of the car. don't forget the hood latch.)
5. Disconnect the small hose on the driver's side, top of the radiator. 
6. Remove the four bolts holding the fans to the radiator.
7. The fans can be removed by pushing them towards the passenger side, raising the driver’s side above the lower radiator hose, then coming back towards the drivers side.
8. Loosen both belt tensioners and remove the belts. The bolt going through the pulley locks the tensioner in place.  Loosen it and then back off the tensioner bolt.
9. Using the Chrysler Harmonic Balancer Removal Tool (Available at AutoZone), remove the harmonic balancer.
10. Remove the serpentine belt tensioner completely.
11. Remove the bolts on the aluminum timing belt cover on the driver's side.
12. Remove the bolts on the stamped steel timing belt cover.  (Do not scrape the gasket material off, it is reusable.)
13. Using the crank bolt and an 18mm socket, rotate the crank to TDC.  There’s an arrow on the pulley and TDC marked on the block.
14. If the car is in time, the slot in each cam should line up between the two dots on the block at 12 o'clock.  If not, rotate the crank once and check again.
15. If the marks do not line up, some adjustment of the cams will be needed before placing the new belt on.
16. Loosen the timing belt tensioner out slowly.  Complete removal is not necessary.
17. Pull the old belt off.  If the crank are in time, they will not rotate.  TDC (and 6-7 o'clock) is a natural resting place.  If they are out of time, have someone hold the cams with a breaker bar (not a ratchet) and socket before removing the timing belt, then SLOWLY rotate them to TDC.
18. The passenger’s side cam should be set a little to the right of the two dots.  This allows the cam to time properly when tightening the tensioner.
19. Install the new timing belt by starting at the crank, then up over the driver’s side cam, under the water pump, and over the passenger’s side cam.  
20. Slowly tighten the tensioner back up and watch the timing of the passenger's side cam.  You may have to back it off and adjust the cam to allow for the rotation while tightening the tensioner.
21. Reinstall the covers, then the crank pulley. The crank pulley bolt can be used to draw the crank pulley back onto the crank shaft.
22. The rest is putting everything back on in the reverse order.

 
NOTE: Depending on mileage, I suggest replacing the water pump while you're in there.  It's fairly cheap and will save you a lot of time and trouble if it were to go out later; cause you'd get to do this all again!