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Posted on Aug 28, 2017
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Driveshaft vibrates shaft from trans to rear wheels, put new u-joints in it but it looks like its the cv in the trans end. will not rotate or (slip yoke), is it a cv joint or is it supposed to remain stationary. you can move the brg cage around inside but the inner is locked to the outer, if it won't swivel than what good is it ? is it supposed to swivel and slip like a cv joint?

1 Answer

Steve Pack

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  • Ford Master 7,125 Answers
  • Posted on Jul 31, 2018
Steve Pack
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It will rotate the slip joint that on the drive shaft into transmission only slides in and to allow ear suspension to work without breaking driveshaft. I would remove driveshaft and inspect front joint. it it does not flex sided to side and up and down, then it is bad. replace and be very careful when pressing in cup that the bearings don't fall out.

4 Related Answers

Vernon Bosshard

  • 34 Answers
  • Posted on Oct 16, 2008

SOURCE: How to disassemle CV joint

I have done CV joints here at my home garage for yrs, I recently did my 02 Esteem 1.8, I have a pic of the joint completely disassemble, and I mean as far as you can disassemble it. There are basically 3 types of joints, the rezeppa, which is the outer, the tripod and double offset joints are used on the inside.
The only tools needed are a large brass hammer, a vise, snap ring pliers, and CV boot clamp pliers.
You can remove both types of inners without special tools, the shaft has an external snap ring to hold on the race. The outer requires a vise and a large brass hammer, you hold the sahft in the vise, hold and pull on the joint and hit it close to the shaft, it has a circlip like the one used in the transmission, you have to "overcome" this clip. Then you simply turn the cage so to expose each ball out of the shell, and pluck it out, then rotate the inner race sideways and manauever it out, then the cage the same way.
The inner depends on what type, the tripod type come right out once the boot is removed, the double offset type is similar but it has a large circlip which can be plucked out with a small pick, it is a very weak clip. Then the cage and ball will litterally fall apart in you hands.
Clean and degrease all parts.

Assembly is a snap, the outer one goes on first, once the cage and balls are in the shell, and greased, put the shaft in and push down while working the clip smaller until is collapses enough to fit in the groove of the shaft, then tap it on down, the clip will emerge inside the joint and snap out to full size again. Again this exactly the same principle used on the stub that goes in the tranny.
The inners are just assemle in reverse order. Install the inner race, or tripod,depending on which one you have, then the balls and outer race, push it in the sheel (tulip), install the large circlip making sure the gap fall in between a ball race, then fasten the boot.

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Anonymous

  • 607 Answers
  • Posted on Apr 04, 2009

SOURCE: cv boot clamp came off somehow from the outer hub assembly

athere is a snap ring within the CV joint the nedds to be spread OPEN to release CV joint from axle, Once CV is cleaned and repacked with grease rintall onto axle by again spreading apart clamp. Prior to installing CV joint slide NEW CV joint boot onto axle, Cleanly intall add'l grrease and reinstall CV boot.

Anonymous

  • 169 Answers
  • Posted on Aug 30, 2009

SOURCE: why do i have a play 0f 2mm on my ford focus

if its not throwing grease or noisey joint probly ok no movement top to bottom hub ok left to right ck ball joint or tie rod or c-arm bushings

Testimonial: "thanks you were on the button. it was a loose ball joint, thanks again."

Anonymous

  • 416 Answers
  • Posted on Jan 17, 2010

SOURCE: when replacing a outer C.V joint boot , do you

you can replace just the outter but you may want to replace the whole axle alot easier

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1answer

How to remove axle from front of 1998 windstar

  1. Raise and support the vehicle safely.
  2. Remove the front wheels.
  3. Insert a steel rod into the brake rotor to prevent the rotor from turning and loosen the axle wheel hub nut. Discard the nut.
  4. Remove the ball joint-to-front wheel knuckle retaining nut. Drive the bolt out of the front wheel knuckle using a punch and hammer.
  5. Remove the front brake anti-lock sensor and position it out of the way.
  6. Separate the ball joint from the front wheel knuckle using a prybar. Position the end of the prybar outside of the bushing pocket to avoid damage to the bushing.
Use care to prevent damage to the front wheel driveshaft joint boot.
  1. Remove the stabilizer bar link at the front stabilizer bar.
Make sure the CV-joint puller does not contact the transaxle shaft speed sensor. Damage to the sensor will result.
  1. Install a CV-Joint Puller (T86P-3514-A1) or equivalent between the inboard CV-joint and the transaxle case.
  2. Install a CV-Joint Extension (T86P-3514-A2) or equivalent into the puller and hand-tighten.
  3. Using an impact slide hammer, remove the driveshaft from the transaxle.
Do not allow the front wheel driveshaft and joint to hang unsupported. Damage to the front wheel driveshaft joint may result. Do not wrap wire around the front wheel driveshaft joint boot. Damage to the boot may result.
  1. Support the end of the driveshaft and joint assembly by suspending it from the chassis using a length of wire.
Never use a hammer to separate the outboard front wheel driveshaft joint from the wheel hub. Damage to the outboard front wheel driveshaft joint threads and internal components may result.
  1. Separate the outboard front wheel driveshaft joint from the wheel hub using a Front Hub Remover/Replacer (T81P-1104-C) or equivalent. Make sure the hub remover adapter is fully threaded onto the hub stud.
Do not move the vehicle without the outboard CV-joint properly installed, as damage to the bearing may occur.
  1. Remove the front wheel driveshaft and joint assembly from the vehicle.
To install:
Do not reuse the retainer circlip. A new circlip must be installed each time the inboard CV-joint stub shaft is installed into the transaxle differential.
  1. Install a new retainer circlip on the inboard CV-joint stub shaft by starting one end in the groove and working the retainer circlip over the inboard shaft housing end and into the groove. This will avoid overexpanding the circlip.
A non-metallic mallet may be used to aid in seating the retainer circlip into the differential side gear groove. If a mallet is necessary, tap only on the outboard CV-joint stub shaft.
  1. Carefully align the splines of the inboard CV-joint stub shaft housing with the splines in the differential. Exerting some force, push the inboard CV-joint stub shaft housing into the differential until the retainer circlip is felt to seat in the differential side gear. Use care to prevent damage to the inboard CV-joint stub shaft and transaxle seal.
  2. Carefully align the splines of the outboard front wheel driveshaft joint with the splines in the wheel hub, and push the shaft into the wheel hub as far as possible.
  3. Temporarily fasten the front disc brake rotor to the wheel hub with washers and two lug nuts. Insert a steel rod into the front disc brake rotor and rotate clockwise to contact the front wheel knuckle, to prevent the front disc brake rotor from turning during front wheel driveshaft and joint installation.
A new front axle wheel hub retaining nut must be installed.
  1. Manually thread the front axle wheel hub retaining nut onto the outboard CV-joint stub shaft housing as far as possible.
A new bolt and nut must be used to connect the front suspension arm to the knuckle.
  1. Connect the front suspension lower arm to the front wheel knuckle. Tighten the nut and bolt to 40-55 ft. lbs. (54-74 Nm).
  2. Install the front brake anti-lock sensor.
  3. Connect the front stabilizer bar link and tighten to 35-45 ft. lbs. (47-65 Nm).
Do not use power or impact tools to tighten the hub nut.
  1. Tighten the front axle wheel hub retaining nut to 157-212 ft. lbs. (213-287 Nm).
  2. Install the front wheels and lower the vehicle.
  3. Using the recommended type of fluid, fill the transaxle to the proper level.
0helpful
1answer

Rotated & balanced tires. new driveshaft & center carrier bearing u-joints new shocks front & rear replaced rear axle bearings and seals new left rear rotor parking brake shoes new disc brake...

You will need to check things logically. Run the truck in the air and note where the vibration is at. Take the wheels OFF and put a few lug nuts to hold the rotors on, take the truck to 45mph or whatever the vibration is the worst. is it still there? if its gone, check wheels/ tires. if its still there, check rotors, axles. A drive shaft will make a rapid vibration at low speeds since it turns 3 to 4 times faster than the wheels. does it vibrate on or off the gas? Can you power through the vibration like go 60 and then coast back through? You have replaced a lot of parts that would not cause vibrations. Are you just changing parts willy nilly or is someone actually checking and verifying that these parts really bad?
1helpful
2answers

I have a 2006 chev 2500 HD. The steering wheel and 4x4 shifter shake very bad at 50mph. It has had a new transfer case put in, driveshaft balanced and all four tires checked. The vibration goes away if you...

u need to check rear end with the drive shaft removed vibration goes away would lead me to believe you have bad bearings in the rear end more than likely the pinion bearing
pull cover off (while fluid draining check to see if there a lot of metal in oil )
if you do see metal in fluid or laying in rear end you need rear end rebuilt or replaced
i wouldn't recommend doing the rebuild your self because with out the special tools and knowleage u can make matters worse
0helpful
2answers

Truck has vibration,Rear wheels jacked off up off ground,transmission in park,wheels still turn,driveshaft doesnt.

trucks have a limited slip rear end to help in turning. if both back tires are in the air they will turn,the drive shaft wont turn because its in park. to check the vibration you might check the balance of your tires
0helpful
1answer

Vibration on acceleration and deceleration

sounds like you may have some bad u-joints or differential problems scotch your wheels so it won,t roll put in neutral and climb under grab driveshaft at rear end and at trans see if u-joints are shot if this vehicle has two piece driveshaft check carrier bearing in middle of shaft hope this helps
7helpful
1answer

Do I have to remove the control arm to replace the half shaft on a 2005 Ford Freestar?

no, here's the procedure for 2002 windstar, should be similar. please rate, thanks.

NOTE: This procedure applies to both the LH and RH halfshaft assemblies.
  1. Raise and support the vehicle. For additional information, refer to Section 100-02 .
  1. Remove the front wheel and tire assembly. For additional information, refer to Section 204-04 .
  1. Insert a steel rod in the brake disc to prevent the halfshaft from turning while removing the front axle wheel end nut.
  1. s2w~us~en~file=ani_caut.gif~gen~ref.gif CAUTION: The front axle wheel end nut is a torque prevailing design nut. Do not reuse it.
    Remove the nut and washer.
    • Remove the steel rod in the brake disc.
  1. s2w~us~en~file=ani_caut.gif~gen~ref.gif WARNING: Remove or tape the brake pads to prevent them from falling out of the anchor plate.
    s2w~us~en~file=ani_caut.gif~gen~ref.gif CAUTION: To prevent damage to the brake hose, do not allow the disc brake caliper to hang suspended from the hose.
    Remove the bolts and position the disc brake caliper aside.
  1. Remove the front brake anti-lock sensor harness from the clip.
  1. Remove and discard the nut and bolt.
    • If necessary, use a punch and a hammer to drive the bolt out of the knuckle.
  1. s2w~us~en~file=ani_caut.gif~gen~ref.gif CAUTION: Position the end of the pry bar outside the bushing pocket to avoid damage to the bushing.
    s2w~us~en~file=ani_caut.gif~gen~ref.gif CAUTION: Do not damage the front wheel driveshaft joint boot (3A331).
    Separate the front suspension lower arm from the knuckle.
  1. s2w~us~en~file=ani_caut.gif~gen~ref.gif CAUTION: Never use a hammer to separate the front wheel driveshaft joint (3B413) from the wheel hub. Damage to the joint threads and internal components can result.
    Using the special tool, press on the front wheel driveshaft joint until it is loose in the wheel hub.
  1. Rotate the front wheel knuckle rearward, while pulling it outward at the bottom and remove the front wheel driveshaft joint from the wheel hub.
  1. Using a pry bar, separate the inboard CV joint housing assembly (3B436) (3B437) from the transaxle.
  1. s2w~us~en~file=ani_caut.gif~gen~ref.gif CAUTION: Do not damage the differential seal.
    Remove the halfshaft assembly with both hands.
Installation
  1. Lubricate the differential seal.
    • Use MERCON® V Automatic Transmission Fluid XT-5-QM or equivalent meeting MERCON® V specifications.
  1. s2w~us~en~file=ani_caut.gif~gen~ref.gif CAUTION: Install a new circlip every time you remove the halfshaft from the vehicle.
    On the RH side halfshaft only, install a new circlip in the groove in the inboard CV joint stub shaft.
    • Start one end in the groove and work the circlip over the shaft and into the groove. This will prevent the circlip from over-expanding.
  1. s2w~us~en~file=ani_caut.gif~gen~ref.gif CAUTION: Do not damage the inboard CV joint housing assembly and the differential seal.
    NOTE: If necessary, use a non-metallic mallet to aid in seating the circlip in the differential side gear groove (RH) or inboard CV joint housing (LH). Tap only on the outboard front wheel driveshaft joint.
    Align the inboard CV joint housing splines with the differential side gear splines (RH) or output shaft splines (LH), and push the inboard CV joint housing assembly inward until the circlip seats in the differential side gear (RH) or inboard CV joint housing (LH).
  1. Align the front wheel driveshaft joint splines and the wheel hub splines, and push the joint into the wheel hub as far as possible.
  1. Install the washer and the old nut. Using the old nut, seat the front wheel driveshaft joint in the hub. Remove the old nut and discard it.
  1. Connect the suspension lower arm to the knuckle.
  1. s2w~us~en~file=ani_caut.gif~gen~ref.gif CAUTION: Install a new bolt and nut.
    Install the new bolt and nut.
  1. Insert a steel rod in the brake disc to prevent the halfshaft from turning while installing the new front axle wheel end nut.
  1. Apply a small patch of Loctite 242 or equivalent meeting Ford specification WSK-M2G351-A5 to the last five front wheel driveshaft joint threads.
  1. s2w~us~en~file=ani_caut.gif~gen~ref.gif CAUTION: Install and tighten the new front axle wheel end nut to specification in a continuous rotation. Stopping the rotation during installation will cause the nylon lock to set incorrectly. This will cause incorrect torque readings while tightening the nut, and lead to bearing failure. Always install a new front axle wheel end nut after loosening the nut, or when the nut has not been installed to specification in a continuous rotation.
    Install and tighten the new nut to specification in a continuous rotation.
    • Remove the steel rod from the brake disc.
  1. Position the disc brake caliper and install the bolts.
  1. Install the front brake anti-lock sensor harness in the clip.
  1. Install the wheel and tire assembly. For additional information, refer to Section 204-04 .
  1. Lower the vehicle.
  1. Check and, if necessary, fill the transaxle to the correct level with the specified fluid. For additional information, refer to Section 307-01 .
7helpful
2answers

1998 Silverado 1500 Rear End Howl/Leak/Clunk/Vibration Pinion

A pinion seal leaks for one or boyh of these reasons. A worn pinion bearing or a driveshaft vibration, Sounds as though you have both. Do not confuse tire howl with gear howl, be sure.The rear end can run 3 to 500.00 if not more. Ck the gear oil in the rearend for metal content. That will tell you alot. The hard shifting is generally from a sticky spool in the trans valve body. Have the trans serviced w/new oil and filter. The new oil often cleans the moving parts of gum and varnish buildup.in the valve body. One more thing, the rear ends take a special oil and additive if it's a limited slip or posi lock. You will have a popping/binding noise when turning if the wrong lube is install. Have your driveshaft aligned and balanced at at driveshaft shop.or you will end up tearing up the tailshaft on the trans. Good Luck
0helpful
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Part names

cardan centering bearing
point bolts needed to be removed that connects D.S.to transfercase
0helpful
2answers

THINK DRIVESHAFT HAS GONE BUT WHICH SIDE

If drive shaft is gone replace it. Raise the car once more Look at the cv boots and shaft put car in nuetral car off key in ignition shift selector in neutral emergency brake on. position yourself by the wheel and observe the cv boot and joints rotate unisom or together on one side if not replace it check on both sides inner and outer. Then check opposite wheel
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