Motor is from a table saw; it rans badly only for a short time and it blows the breaker. Thanks for info Chris Schwarzmaier Additional info: single phase 220, 2 hp, no interial centrifugal switch, start and run capacitor new, motor emitts humming noise and blows the breaker after about 10 sec.

Take a look here....

https://www.startmycar.com/us/ford/crown-victoria/info/fusebox/2008

Best to you

With power cord removed check brushes and switch
These types of saws are similar to a handheld circular saw and they have brushes in the motor.
The link is for craftsman near identical

Hope this helps?http://www.managemylife.com/mmh/lis_pdf/OWNM/L0606545.pdf

the parts are shorted, the FUSE stops the fire. and flames.
we fix this buy isolating the shorted part.
we do that with an ammeter. (there are other ways, ask)
i see the ammeter prove short then
i try each door manually , 1 by one form the local door switch lock
to see if one door blows the fuse when activated.
BINGO, so then unplug that door lock solenoid, still blow the fuse
(i use a fuse substitute device (sold in all good auto-stores) called a fuse, circuit breaker converter)
lock sol, removed, still blows?, yes? then harness shorts, (hard work)
if Sol, pulled cures over-current, its bad. a shorted soleniod.

there are other ways, ill just list them.
no ammeter?
no C-Breaker.?

1. use a light bulb in place of fuse. (i use a head light in a box)
2. a current limited power supply in place of fuse. (see over current)
3. Pul all parts, 1 by one on this bad line and a box of fuses.

there are 4 ways.
I always use an amp clamp meter on the line
and the circuit breaker trick.
then pull parts. and conn. on the bad feed. (lots there are)

that's it, for shorts.

you are probably having a blower motor issue. the bearings in the motor are most likely bad and as the motor run they get hotter and hotter until they seize on the shaft.

Yes, I suggest looking for the Headlight Relay and a Circuit Breaker. You should find the Relay in the Powerbox under the hood and the circuit breaker should be in the fuse panel.

What is happening is the contacts are overheating. Instead of blowing a fuse some models use a Circuit breaker which recycles when it cools down. You can get the same action out of a Relay that is going bad.

If this continues after you replace the parts you should test the voltage going to the headlights and check the bulb sockets for corrosion. The headlights are made so that the low beam and high beam are separate and they are not on at the same time. If both filaments were on at the same time it would overload the relays and the Circuit breaker.

You will see that the bulbs are rated with 2 numbers, like 45/65 for low and high beam. If one side shorts out it will pull an additional 65 watts. Instead of drawing 90 total on low and 130 on high for 2 headlights, it will pull 155 with 1 headlight shorted. Thats 25 watts more than the Relay or Circuit breaker is suppose to handle. After 45 minutes of this, you get the flashing.

There could be a timed circuit breaker:

Circuit Breakers The headlights are protected by a circuit breaker in the headlamp switch. If the circuit breaker trips, the headlights will either flash on and off, or stay off altogether. The circuit breaker rests automatically after the overload is removed. The windshield wipers are also protected by a circuit breaker. If the motor overheats, the circuit breaker will trip, remaining off until the motor cools or the overload is removed. One common cause of overheating is operation of the wipers in heavy snow. The circuit breakers for the power door locks and power windows are located in the fuse box.

You have a short to ground on one of the circuits.You will have to try unplugging one thing at a time to find it.Unplug the wiper motor first,then take out the park light bulbs one at a time until you find what is causing it to blow fuses.Water in the bulbs will do it.Shorted wiper motor.More than likely it is in one of the park light bulbs/cicuit.

Blown fuse means there is an increase of current due to an increase of load or a short. You may want to check the wiring harness that has the wires of those not running that you have mentioned for open circuit, corroded insulation, loose cable, ect that needs replacement and mending.

You wont blow a fuse there is only a circuit breaker protecting this circuit sounds like a shorted master switch unfortunately the easiest way to test is to replace with a good switch