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You always start with the brake that is furthest away from the master cylinder. On most vehicles, it is the passenger rear. Bleed until nothing but clear fluid comes out of the bleeder valve and make sure that the fluid does not go empty in the master cylinder reservoir. Then move to the next closest brake, usually the drivers rear, then to the next closest, usually the passenger front, then finally the last brake. If you do not end up with a proper operating brake system, there must be an issue in the system. Bad master cylinder, booster, or ABS system are likely suspects.
start the bleeding process by opening the longest line first. Get a mate to help with the process . Pump the pedal a few times and hold it down while the bleed screw is opened. tighten the screw and pump up again open bleed screw . Repeat process until no air comes out of the screw . Repeat the process back to the last line. Keep the master cylinder reservoir full during the processes.. Operational brakes will work wit or with out the booster . The booster only reduces the amount of energy you have to exert to put the brakes on
first make sure there are no brake fluid leaks, sometimes the steel lines get rotted and start leaking. to test the booster with the engine off pump brake pedal about 10 - 12 times on the last pump hold the brake pedal down and start the car if the booster is good the pedal will drop alittle.
sounds like you need a new master cylinder, brake booster or you have a vacuum leak in the brake booster hose. you need to check to see if you have any brake fluid leaks first
INFO:
This vehicle is NOT safe to operate.
The Brake fluid is leaking on to the back side of your floor board carpet OR it is filling up the Brake booster.
RECOMENDATION:
Replace brake master cylinder.
INSPECT:
1. To inspect pull up the carpet from behind the brake peddle you should see that paint is pealing off of the fire wall and you may even see this from under the hood under the master cylinder.
2. A little more difficult but it is possible that brake fluid is filling the brake vacuum booster and may require removal to see if it is. IF fluid is entering the booster it will need to be replaced.
It's very possible to be the master cylinder, the o-rings on the piston could be worn, letting the fluid seep back through instead of getting full pressure through the lines. Could also be the brake booster.
Try changing the master cylinder first, which is cheaper and easier, and see if there is a difference, you'll need to bleed the brakes again.
To check the booster,
With the engine off, pump the brakes until the pedal is hard, then hold pressure on the brake pedal and listen for air escaping, or the pedal goes slowly to the floor, Do that after the master cylinder has been changed, at least that will be eliminated.
My vote would be the Master Cylinder.
I had a truck sit for 4 years. After getting running again, it did the same thing you're describing. No brakes. I ended up replacing the Master Cylinder to fix the problem. Just make sure you bleed the system real good.
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