Is changing the cam timing belt something I can or should do myself?

I think that if belt is wore out that the tensioner wont be to far behind it or the reverse if you change tensioner the belt cant be far behind , and its not something you want to go back in and do over in a few thousand miles .I hope this was helpful.
Woody

lined up all the timing marks before you do anything. get a new timing belt as the old one is contaminated with oil and will fail very soon. When you pull the belt off it will be of utmost importance that you do not rotate the cam shaft at all or you will bend valves. so use something to lock the cam gear while you undo and nuts on the shaft or while removing the gear

Need auto-technician for this job is not just the tensioner,you my need New timing belt,new , idle new tensioner ,new crank and cam shaft seals and water pump and 3 to 3 and 1/2 hour labour .

I found this site which I am sure help you -

www.youtube.com/watch?v=mo3YHrEKcZc

hope this will help

the only special tools you need are a harmonic balancer puller, and a gear puller (for the cam sprocket), you are probally going to have to remove, the altanator, your belts, a motor mount, timing convers, water pump, and maybe a couple other accessries im missing, as far as what else to change, the water pump, and serpentine belt should always be done with the timing, its not a really hard job, its just tedious, a lot of nuts and bolts, you should not have to readjust anything in the system, unless you motor is what is called an inteference motor, in which case, when the timing belt broke, the piston came up and hit the valves bending them so they dont close properly, which will cause you to have little or no compression on one or some of the cylinder, the best was to check it is while you have the motor stripped down and the belt ready to put back in, it to turn the cam to isolate 1 cylinder at a time close the valves on the cylinder, then put a compression tool on it and turn the crank, if your valves are working properly, you will get some compression from the test, zero compression means bad valves or rings.

i show this engine uses a belt so it is very unlikely the belt is the noise u hear, think that the tech u talked to doesn't know Beemers

These are chain driven. The only issue I have seen with these are the chain tensioners breaking. Generaly with chain driven engines, the chain will last the life of the vehicle, unless something like the tensioner or guide brakes. If it does break repairs can be fairly expensive.

IF CHANGING THE TIMING GOES RONG YOUR PISTONS AND VALVES WILL MEET AND YOUR AND YOUR CAR WILL BE SCRAP IF YOU KNEW THIS ALLREADY YOU CAN .

The timing belt is inside the valve cover. You have to remove the the valve cover gasket. Underneath that you will find the valves, the head (the top of the engine block). There is a pulley that is used to tighten the timing belt. The pulley is attached to the piston and valve timing. This pulley is usually marked as to where it should be positioned in relationship the timing of the pistons and the cam shaft rotation. This is what is referred to as stting the timing in the engine, and the timing of the distributor. Since your belt is broken the engine has lost track of its timing, so you might have to refer to a manual on your model of car to set the timing. You will also need to replace the valve cover gasket when you put the valve cover back on.

Your info is confusing. The rear cam seal is not inside the timing belt cover, and the crank seal is at the bottom of the engine, while the cam seal is at the top.

Is there oil at the top, around the cam seal? Or just at the bottom? It's common for the oil pump seal to leak. If you get the oil pump reseal kit, it contains the oil pump seal and gasket, as well as the crankshaft seal. Make sure you seal the oil pump bolts, Volvo has special copper washers for this purpose.

Just try to locate the oil leak before replacing any more parts. Sometimes it can be something simple like the oil cap seal or the oil trap housing.


Bret
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