When the engine is cold,check the coolant level.
Make sure it's on max.
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A coolant system should be flush every two years.
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If you did a coolant flush recently then air pocket can be the cause of the un-even heating problem.
The DIY method is to drive you car onto a ramp or a steep hill.
Iet the engine cool off and top off the coolant tank.
Set MAX heat + MAX fan
Let the engine ran for 20 minutes wih the cap off and the trap air will escape from the coolant reserve tank,
Check coolant level and top off coolant when the engine cools down.
A shop will charge $75+ for this but using an air operated excavate tool!
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A car with over 90K miles may experience linkage problem to the heater control valve.
The heater control valve (near the firewall) may be stick over time.
Open the hood and move the heater to max and min. Back and forth.
Clean and lube the linkage with WD-40 to free the heater control valve.
If it's a vacuum type heater control valve then cash for leaky vac. hoses.
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Move the fan switch back and forth to re-new the electrical conductors.
Pass a vacuum over the control panel to prevent dust build up behind the console.
Feel of the heater hoses going into the car from under the hood.They should be very hot to the touch,when the engine is at full warm up.If they are not,look on the same heater hoses,and you will find a heater control valve if it has one,if it does not have one,and the hoses ,or maybe just one of them are not very warm,then the heater core will need flushing out.Use a water hose,remove the heater hoses from the heater core,and flush the heater core by putting the water hose to one heater core pipe,and it will flush out the other pipe.Now if it has a heater control valve,it may need to be replaced if the hose from the engine to the valve is hot,but the one coming out of it is not,and it may have two hoses .Now if it is that the heater hoses are hot going to the inside of the car,to the heater core,then there will be a temp door actuator motor that is not working.This is a motor that selects the temp in the car,that you decide to select on the ac/heater control,if this motor goes out,the door will not move,at all.The whole dash has to come out to replace this actuator motor.
The DCCV is located behind the radiator and low on the passenger side (US) subframe. It isn't too bad of a job if you have the necessary tools. A set of hose pinch-off pliers are very helpful so you don't need to drain the entire cooling system. You'll also find it a lot easier to replace if you put the car on jackstands and can work from underneath as well as from above.
U can only diagnose this problem properly with a Ford scan tool called a NEW GENERATION STAR TESTER, without that tool u are just guessing, all tests of the system are done with the Ford scan tool, that said the DCCV is the common problem I have seen at the Ford dealer I work at (for 25 years!). U might want to pay an hour of diagnostic time to the dealer and change the part yourself, the NGS scanner cost about $1500.00
buy an NGS or have the dealer run the tests, otherwise u are just guessing here, sorry but that is the facto of it. I dion't build them just fix them.
also go to this link and read the dialog abouit the problem
http://www.automotiveforums.com/t757235-...
suit yourself.
the two hoses to the heater core are different sizes, the larger of the two is the inlet hose or hot hose if u prefer.
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Yes you are correct. If you have both hoses in hand and one is cold that means the coolant is not circulating. If no valve is on the hoses between the firewall and the engine then the heater core may be blocked, If a valve is on the hose a vacuum hose should be attached. This could of fallen off.
My Lincoln ls is doing the same thing, but I haven't figured it out yet. The only thing I have had done is he said something about he blowed out the hose, whatever that mean.. But I have been told it's probably the heater core, I hope not that part is close to $700. If you find out whats the problem with yours please advise me.. Thanks.
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I first have to identify the problem. Some one said if you disconnect the DCCV the valves would open. Right now I am checking for inlet hose location. The bottom hose is hot...the top hoses cold.
Did you get the last comments.......I need someone to solve the problem not tell me where the DCCV is...I already know that.
I need to identify what the problem is with my Lincoln LS blowing cold air trying to eliminate or confirm DCCV as the problem. Where is the inlet hose to the heater core...top or bottom.
What did they do before computers mate? The dealers going to charge a minimum of $150 the part costs $160. I suspect it is the culprit based on frequency.... do you know where the inlet hose is...cause the bottom hose is hot.
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