Driver side brake not bleeding properly after bleeding left side and changing rotors, calipers, and pads?

bleed it with key on

Hello their, you have answered your question 100%, if you can rebuild the calipers it would save you money instead of getting new/rebuilt ones, and just bleed them normally, then apply to fixya to become one of us :)

Hi Friend:

#1) Break Loose your Lug Nuts,Just A Little don't Take-them off yet.

#2) Jack Front end off the Ground,Support with Good jack stands,Keep Truck in Park and Emergency brake Applied.

#3) Now Take off your Front Wheels-Tires.

#4) Now on the Inside of your brake rotor on each side,there are 2-Caliper mounting bolts. Allen Bolts 3/8" Allen Socket or Allen Wrench.Break the 2-Bolts loose and Remove them.

#5) Now after the Caliper Bolts are removed ,Loosen the Brake Line going to the Calipers using a Flare wrench.You'll need to have a Drain Pan handy to Catch the Brake Fluid.

#6) Now you'll need a C Clamp ,to compress the caliper piston back in the Caliper. NOTE: before you compress the Caliper pistons ,take off the master cylinder cover and using a suction bulb remove about 1/2 of the fluid from the Front Resevoir.the larger of the two.

#7) Now placing the C-Clamp over the Caliper housing turn it clockwise to compress the Piston all the way in.

#8) now you can remove your caliper and the pads,same for Both Sides. AND remove your Rotors they are held on by the Calipers and your Lug-Nuts.It Should come right off ,if its a little rusted and Stubborn take a Plastic Headed Hammer and Tap it all around the Old Rotor.Until it comes off.

#9) Now Slide your new Rotors on the HUB and over the lug nuts.

#10) Get your new caliper Making sure you have the Correct Caliper its Marked Left or Right Sides. It will only work on the Side its made for.

#11) Now put your Anti Rattel Clips on the Correct Sides(Inside) that fit into the New Caiper Piston.also use some brake lube on the back on the new brake pads where they touch the caiper housing.

#12) With both pads in the Caliper Slide the Caliper over your New Rotor. This is for both sides.

#13) Put your brake line back on using the new brass washers that came with your rotors/or Caipers.

#14) Now Put your Caliper Mounting bolts in and tighten up to 38 Foot Lbs.

#15) When you have both sides done Fill up your master Cylinder about a 1/4 " from top.

16) Now you'll need to bleed them ,Get a Friend and have them Slowly push the brake pedal down,after he says its down you open the bleeder valve until fluid and air come out==Now tighten it back before your friend raises his foot up off the pedal.During bleeding keep checking your Master Cylinder to keep it full of fluid.

#17) Start your bleeding from the Right Rear to Left Rear to Right Front and Last Left Front. Always bleed from the farthest brake or Wheel from the Master Cylinder and work your way to the Master.

#18) After you have No air coming out of the bleeder valve and you do have good clean brake fluid.Your Done Bleeding;You should have a Good tight and High Brake Pedal. NOTE: you DON't start the Truck to bleed the brakes.

#19) Now just Put your Tires back on and Tighten your Lug Nuts and you should have good Brakes.

I'm sure that this will get you good brakes and on the Road Again.

Thanks for Using Fixya Please let me know How my Solution Helped you by Voting For the Quality of my help.

Thanks Again: From: d_hubbs

These brakes are a pretty easy fix. For the job pick up some cheap gloves, you'll need general hand tools, proper Brake Fluid (DOT 3?)some brake cleaner, a large C-clamp, new pads (front) and I'd replace the front rotors too. Place the van on jack stands, remove front tires, using some brake cleaner spray down the calipers, pay special attention to the boot around the piston to clean well (if heavy dirt is left on it, it can make for sticky caliper(s).) Place the C-Clamp ove the calliper to compressit (DO NOT TIGHTEN ON YET!) Loosen the bleeder screw on the back of the caliper and place a small tube on it, now slowly tighten on the C-clamp, this will cause the piston to gently push back in to the caliper, you'll note old fluid coming from the bleed screw. Once fully driven back (don't over tighten!) remove the C-clamp and caliper and clean up with spray. Remove and replace the rotor, install new pads (lubricate as needed) and reinstall the caliper. Repeat to other side; once done bleed brake system and replace with new brake fluid. Be carefull with brake fluid and with brake cleaner, nasty stuff!

In general this is how it goes.

I hope this may have helped!

Best regards,
Tom

1) Block rear wheels and place Park brake ON
2) Jack up front end and use Jack Stands. If you dont have Jack Stands, you can use the Car Jack but when you remove the tire, slide the tire under the vehicle so that if it does fall off of the jack, it will land on the tire/rim and not your body. Always remember NEVER get any part of your body under the vehicle when it is not on Jack Stands.!!!!!
-- You can do 1 side at a time - Procedure is the same for Both Sides
3) Remove Tire
4) There are 2 bolts behind the brake caliper (the thing that holds the brake pads on.) You may need a special tool, it's kind of like an Allen Wrench, but it is sort of Star-Shaped, You can get these at any Car Parts Store. These bolts are inside 2 rubber tubes, don't remove these rubber tubes (like I did)....
5) Once you remove the 2 bolts, the caliper and shoes may then be lifted from the Brake Rotor.
-- Note: Once you remove the caliper, the brake rotor will come off. It is highly recommended that you take these brake rotors to a shop and have them 'turned'. If you don't, then your brake repair will result in faster wear of the new pads and may cause unbalanced braking. I know... I did the same thing trying to save money.
-- Or you can get new rotors and install them. They are not that much and new rotors will last longer than turned ones.
6) Remove the outer pad (Use a screw-driver to pry off the spring-holder.
7) To remove the inner pad, you should loosen the "Brake Bleed Valve" on the caliper and push the inner pad in *Pushing the piston in* This will make brake fluid come out of the bleed valve, so catch it in a pan. Once it's pushed in most of the way, Close the bleed-valve and then pry off the inner pad. If you DONT close the brake bleed valve and you try and pull the inner pad off, it will just **** AIR into the brake system, which sucks making step 16 that much harder...
8) Inspect the inner piston for rust / debrit. If there is damage to the piston, or you see brake fluid leakage anywhere on the caliper, you may have to get a new caliper.
9) Install the new inner pad by pressing it into the piston-Cup. You have to make sure you line up the pad also...
10) Install the new Outer Pad, Make sure that the locking clip Locks onto the caliper.
10a) This may be a good time to inspect your Axle and Wheel Bearings. If the Rubber is torn or missing from your axle (CV-Boot) that should be repaired.
11) Place the rotor back on the axle
12) Slip on the Caliper back over the rotor and make sure it is lined up properly to the caliper mount.
13) It is recommended to get NEW bolts, but if you dont, then re--install the bolts. Make sure they are tight.
14) Replace wheel.
15) Do the OTHER side.
16) Now that BOTH sides are done, you must now Bleed the Brake System.
-- You will need someone to sit inside the vehicle while you bleed the brakes.
a) Without the brake being pressed, make sure the Brake Fluid is topped filled to the Full Line.
b) Start the car
c) Start at the Right Rear of the vehicle
d) Tell the person to apply AND HOLD the brake pedal. Open the Bleed Valve and let air/fluid out. The driver should NOT let up on the pedal, but let it go to the floor and hold it there. Close the valve. Tell the driver to Pump and then HOLD the brake. Open the valve again letting air/fluid out. Driver should let the brake pedal go to the floor and hold, NEVER let up. Close the valve. You can repeat this process a few times until you hear NO air coming out.
d) Check the Brake Fluid Level make sure it's to the full line.
e) Move to the Left Rear Wheel and repeat step (d) for the Left Rear brake
f) Move to the Right Front and repeat step (d)
g) Move to the Left Front and repeat step (d).
17) Your brakes should now be bled. Make sure that the brake pedal does not feel "Mushy" but should feel "Firm". If it feels "Mushy", then you still have some air trapped in the brake lines and you need to bleed the brake system again.

I hope that this helps someone out there wanting to do their own brakes. This is not a End-All and All-Knowing procedure. I may also be missing some important things/steps that you must take. I am just sharing my experience in my doing my own brakes.

So long as the brake booster is working, test it by turning on the engine, press the brake pedal all the way down, then shut off engine keeping your foot on the brake pedal, if the pedal comes up slightly pushing against your foot then the booster IS working.

Did you BLEED the brakes??????

The hard part is pressing the caliper piston abck into the caliper so you can get the new, thicker pads over the rotor. A large C Clamp works best.

SECTION 206-03: Front Disc Brake 2001 Villager Workshop Manual
REMOVAL AND INSTALLATION Pads —Front Disc Brake Removal

1. Remove the wheel and tire assembly. For additional information, refer to Section 204-04 .

1. Remove the front disc brake caliper bolts. torx bit. T20?

1. Support the front disc brake caliper from the front strut and spring assembly using mechanics wire.

1. Remove the front disc brake pads.
   1. Remove the outboard front disc brake pad.
   1. Remove the inboard front disc brake pad.

Installation

1. CAUTION: Make sure the master cylinder reservoir does not overfill and spill brake fluid while retracting the front disc brake caliper piston.
   NOTE: It is necessary to fully retract the front disc brake caliper piston in the bore before installing the front disc brake pads.
   Install the front disc brake pads.
   1. Install the inboard front disc brake pad.
   1. Install the outboard front disc brake pad.

Caution. The outer pads are left and right. put left on driver side.

1. Position the front disc brake caliper on the front-wheel knuckle and install the brake caliper pin bolts.

1. WARNING: It is necessary to depress the brake pedal several times to position the front disc brake caliper piston before driving the vehicle.
   

Sounds like it was pulling before the brake job...if so the only thing you didn't replace was the rotors, I assume you turned them? and did you see hard spots on the rotor? discolored area that didn't cut the same......switch the rotors left to right and see if the problem moves or just replace them if they've been cut twice.

it is best to replace both sides to prevent a pulling problem when you brake, but you can replace just one side.

The binding of the brakes is causing the pads to overheat, which is causing the smoke. You need pull the wheel and check things out. Your caliper must be bad (not releasing). You need to replace the caliper, brake pads, and have the rotor cut (a full service parts store or shop cuts the rotor perfectly smooth on both sides), or replaced (it may be cheaper to just buy a new rotor). You should also always change the pads (and check everything else) on the opposite side. So, if u do the brakes on the driver side front, always do the front pass. side at the same time, likewise if u do rear brakes.
Whenever you do brakes u should also flush out the brake lines (by bleeding the brakes) until the brake fluid flows absolutely clear. Old brake fluid is the #1 reason for caliper failure. I've seen many times people replace brake components w/out changing the brake fluid, only to have the brakes wear out very quickly, or not function properly. good luck! hope this helps> please rate this!couontrycurt0