Check wiring and connection if good replace knock sensor
(Solved) I have a 2000 nissan frontier 3.3L V6. Ran fine when cold, but when it got warm, the truck would start to want to shut off, and idle badly. Accelleration would keep truck on, but idle very roughly. I had check engine light come on with 3 codes. But I think the idling was not do to the codes. I think I had a separate issue. That being said. The 3 codes were po325( knock sensor) which would not cause this issue. P1148 ( closed loop bank one) & P0130 oxygen sensor bank 1) I figured both bank ones are the same issue. I replaced the oxygen sensor and that took care of check engine light. I found online rough idling. & almost stalling it stalling after being warm was a distributor prob. I replaced it and it fixed the prob. I noticed that the cap and rotor looked worn out, even though I had just replaced it twice in the last 3 months. I guess that is a sign, that the distributor is bad. I had what I though was too much spark coming from cap to wires. It seemed like a much higher spark than normal. I think it's because it's actually shorting out from the inside out. This in turn would make te inside of the cap contacts look like it was carbonized or burnt out like a cap that had been on the vehicle for a few years. I thought it was just a cheap cap. The signs to the problem were right in front of my face the whole time. Just glad I was able to fix it.
My friend and I each have similar 2000 Nissan Frontiers,
both have 3.3 liter v6 engines, his is an automatic 4wd crew cab and mine is a
standard 4 x 2 Desert Runner. About the same time both of our trucks broke down with the
same issues running rough, no power, when cold. Stalled and would not start
once it got warm. We had the same or similar error codes. P0340 Cam Shaft
position sensor: P0100 (MAF) Max air flow: P1336 Crank Shaft sensor: P0325
Knock Sensor: We tested and checked most of these sensors, checked the fuel
pressure, fuses, wires, hoses and We are thinking about engine control module (ECM/ECU). Why
would we be getting so many sensors failing at the same time? My friend took his truck to an auto electric specialist and
they determined it to be the distributor so I replaced mine and that fixed the
problem. So if you are having trouble with your Frontier trunk, save
yourself some time and check your distributor. The bearings do go bad and cause
the truck to fail.
Today it ran rough after warm up.Tach was jumpy when running rough.No check engine light.Replaced distrubtor Advance auto parts 300 dollars.Fixed.The old one was hard to turn,had a scraping noise.
The distributor seems to be a common problem with the 3.3L V6. Replaced mine at 100,000 miles when my truck started running rough. If you were to take the distributor cap off, then removed rotor and the black plastic cover that's under the rotor, you might see, as I did, metal shards stuck to the magnetic pickup. Apparently the bearing fails and the pieces stick to the magnet, arcing and making the engine misfire.
Yes the distrubutor was the problem on our 2wd, 3.3L 2000 Frontier. Dealorship said the sensor went out, and it is built in the distrubutor. The coil is also built into the distributor. If you look at Chilton's and search what is the common cause of the truck running fine for about 10 minutes then dying it points to coil, sensor, distrbutor.
×
5,442 views
Usually answered in minutes!
×