Timing chain replacement

Start by disconnecting the battery. Drain fluid from cooling system, remove fan, fan shroud, and maybe the radiator for extra space. Next step, remove water pump. After that the front balancer. There should be three bolts holding the pully one and one large bolt holding the balancer on. You'll need a crow foot puller to remove the balancer. Make sure the puller has a good end on the large bolt in the center, you don't want to ruin the threads in the crankshaft. If in doubt you can thread a bolt into the crank and push against that instead of into the hole itselft. Then remove the timing chain cover. I'm not sure if this is a plastic cover or a metal cover, plastic covers are deemed a one time use cover. They can however be reused, just make sure you're careful with it. The bottom edge of this cover may be stuck to the oil pan with some sort of glue. Make sure the rubber gasket doesn't get torn. I think it's a one piece rubber gasket. If you tear that you'll have to drop the oil pan too. Usually it's stuck to the timing chain cover and you will have to take your time peeling it off of the cover. Clean the cover up really well before putting it back together. Under the cover you should see three bolts holding the timing chain gear to the camshaft. There should also be an alignment mark on both the crank gear and the cam gear. You can hook up the battery and tap the engine over with the key until those marks line up, or you can use paint on the two teeth that point directly at each other. I recommend tapping the engine over. But don't start it, just tap it. The engine is already in correct time right now.... but it's possible that one or both of those, crank and or camshaft, could move when you take the timing chain off, that's why we need to reference those marks. The three bolts on the cam can now be removed. The gear and chain will come off when those are removed. You will need a puller to remove the gear from the crank, don't reuse it that's a recipe for trouble. Most pullers are pretty large, that's why you may have to remove the radiator. With that gear off you can start re-assembly. If you used paint on the teeth that lined up now you need to set old gears on top of the new ones and transfer those paint marks to the new gears. Make sure you have the gears lined up exactly, you can use the bolt holes and alignment pin on the cam gear, and the keyway in the crank gear. With that done start by installing the crank gear first. Push it on as far as you can and then gently tap it on with a hammer. When the hammer can no longer be used a peice of pipe works if it has an inside diameter larger that the crank. I generally use an old punch that I've ground flat on the tip. I want to distribute the force evenly so I don't break the gear. I then tap it around the gear next to the crank. The sound will be fairly dull sounding until it's seated fully, then it will take on a much more high pitch "ting" sound. That's when you know it's fully seated. Then install the chain and cam gear. Hook the chain around the cam gear and dangle the chain under crank gear. You may have to do this a couple of times to get your marks lined up. If the cam or crank has moved you may have to adjust one or the other to get things to line back up. Once the marks are aligned you can put the cam bolts in, double check your marks when you're done. Now it's time to address the timing chain cover. You will need a new gasket for the timing chain cover. I use yellow weatherstrip adhesive to stick both of them in place, it holds well and seals well. Start by sticking the gasket back down to the oil pan. If this is a plastic cover you may need to replace it to get a new seal for the end of the crank. If it's metal install the new seal now. Then put a really thin bead of silicone on the pan gasket. Smooth it out with your finger so it's just a film. Clean all the oil off of the timing chain cover, don't touch it after cleaning it with carb cleaner or brake cleaner. Oil from your fingers can compromise the seal, and then you have a leak. Place the cover on and press it into the pan. Line up your holes and put all the bolts back in. Now you have to re-install the front balancer. There is a special tool for this, I suggest renting it, it's faster and cheaper than buying a new bolt and all the washers you'll need to put it on that way. Also before doing this make sure there isn't a groove in the front balancer from the seal. If there is you'll need a balancer bushing or a new balancer. On a 1994 it will probably be fine. With that installed you can put your large bolt back in and the three bolts for the lower pulley. Then put on a new water pump and re assemble all the other parts your removed. Fill up your fluids, I would also suggest new belts, hoses, plugs and wires at this time. You're already under there you might as well do it. I would also suggest taking it to a shop so they can time it for you. It might be just right, but it's a quick 15 minute process to get the timing set with a light. Good luck, if I missed anything just ask again!

This is like a big job.....You would do better to get a repair manual for less than $20/copy.

Disconnect your battery.
Line-up the crank-pulley up; camsaft up.
Remove distributor
Drain the coolant, remove water-pump, crank pulley, alternator, compressor-to give more room.
Remove the timing-chain cover.
Loosen the tensioner
Remove the cam-sprocket, and take off the old chain.
IRemove old gaskets.
Installation is reverse of removal. Crank-pulley and camshaft marks must be in proper positions, otherwise engine would damage.
**To avoid serious engine damage, let a shop do it!