Cranks but no start, no injector signal or spark

I can't remember without looking it up but if carburated check needle and or tank vent, fuel cap. If injected find vac hose to fuel pressure regulator , if fuel drips out after running replace regulator if not check injectors by pulling fuel rail with injectors fastened then turn ign to on without cranking a few times leaving 10 to 20 seconds between. Check for leaky injectors.

Just because it pumps fuel doesn't mean there is enough pressure. If there is, then check for spark at the plugs.

I think I would be looking at the crank angle sensor and/or the cam sensors on this vehicle.It seems to me the engine isn't getting the signal to fire up.What happens when you squirt some fuel into the combustion chamber ? If it fires up I would be looking at cleaning the injectors.If it doesn't fire up What's the pressure on the fuel rail. does it have a buy pass pressure valve on the rail.Some suggestions good luck

did you fix this yet, old post.
which engine, we cant guess that. ever.? (we know it's not a diesel)
if the engine has spark and fuel
and it dont start:
it's flooding? (spark tips soaked in raw fuel, ) we look at them......
did you try the operators guide trick, cranking with wide open throttle?
this cuts fueling , clearing a flood condition.
spec, is 120 to 150 PSI. 4.0L
or 4.7L?
good spark to ALL cylinders is the correct test, not just 1.
does the timing light show correct timing? cranking? spark timing?
ever do a tuneup, with new spark plugs yet.
If the above is true it will start. or at least on test fuel.

one way to find problems like this , if the spark is good.
is to cut all fuel injections. (i kill the fuel pump, ask how.)
and start car with test fuel, if it runs for 3 seconds each try.
then all is good , engine and spark, if not , not.
a simple test. that is. and works on all gas engines.

watch scotty.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=064Ilsz8Fzg&NR=1&feature=fvwp

in this case he assumes the engine is good. and timed right.

FSM
http://www.jeep4x4center.com/knowledge-base/index.htm?utm_source=cj#service

I can run any engine, with no fuel in car. sure can.
and is safe to do.
use CRC.
http://www.crcindustries.com/ei/product_detail.aspx?id=05671

what engine? 2.3 or 2.5L?
all cylinders flooding??? spark tips on ALL dripping in gas?
check spark at all spark plugs ( ALL not just ONE)
if spark is good.
this engine is chain cam, so it makes huge noise before death.
did it?, nah
ok, so connect any $9 scan tool, and scan it. (barrow /rent.?)

you crank it for 5 seconds, not less.
and as you crank the scan tool RPM shows 250 to300 rpm and fails to start, the RPM on the tool shows you that the crank sensor is working
now release the key and do not turn off
look for DTC errors. got P0340,355? or any other DTC
that decodes to bad CMP or CKP/
yes, BINGO, the scan tool told you why spark is dead, or way off
timing,

the PCM will report Cmp or CKP errors even 1 in 6 pulses.
the PCM runs monitors against these 2 full time. and will see it fail.
and report, it, let it tell why spark is bad.
say spark is good. and still floods.
1: engine compresssion over 150psi? W.O.T?
2: flooding , i pull the fuel pump relay and crank now.
starts and runs for 3 -5 seconds, yes, that is the flood clearing
so i then try test fuel, runs perfect now (no fuel pump) ???
runs for 3 second, each test fuel usage. well good motor, good spark.
what more do you want? sure to run
so you have either insane high fuel pressure. or injectors leaking
can and does happen.
the tests are all in the FSM under injector and pump testing.
i check fuel pressure first. as its a mandatory thing.....
to factory spec. for unsaid engine.
then i do a injector leak down and balance check.
ask if you get this far.....????

no starts.
cranks perfectly, full cranking speed, not 1 rpm but nearer 300.

ever do the 60k tuneup in the book.?
assuming the service was done and all cyl. are over 150PSI (WOT)
then we check spark first, not fuel..
The ECU brain cuts fuel (by design) any time spark is gone.
here is the proper flow:
1: throw, wild guess?, compression is good,. cam belt slip??????
is cam shaft turning,? look down oil fill hole. is it?
2: i check spark it's bad. (fix spark)
2a: i check spark its good', on all 4 cylinders not just 1.
3: spark was good. cam spins, pray compression is ok....
4: i connect scan tool, i crank for 5 seconds and see RPM rise ,good
i see ECT at say 50f (garage temp) and might see DTCs get thrown as i crank? , i see P0340 or p0355 ( one is dead CKP and other is CMP)
in my case no DTC thrown cranking , and i have spark and ECU
communicates. (key point) we alway s do that ,the tool is $9 (ask)

5: i then look at spark tips, they are:
1: soaking wet, its flooded, (spark was good but they are 10 year old.
2: dry, no fuel all spark tips day.
your engine has 4 cylinders, and all four most not flood or run dry.
i can listen to any cold start and hear gross misfire. but.....
if they are bone dry, i check voltage to the fuel pump.
it must be 12vdc cranking , 1/2 the cars you must crank. to get the pump to run ,(ECU hard logic!)
say I have 12vdc cranking
i check he fuel pressure, its not 30psi, its 5 psi (bad)
i rap the side of the fuel pressure regulator and it now is 30psi.
car starts. the reg was stuck wide open(its bad)
ok, still no start. or good pressure. Good is 30.
let say it was 60psi, i find i forgot to replace my dirty and packed up fuel filter
at the 60k mile service point. ( did i save $10 ? , no)
pretend filter is good..... pressure way low.... (examples)
so i read my FSM and it shows this shunt test, i then block (pinch)
the Fuel return line at the Fuel press. regulator.
i see 60psi, the pump is good. (do only for 5seconds ) (2 man test)
i see 10psi, the pump is bad ( of i have 12v at pump cranking,.....)
all this are pump tests there are 6 tests. not counting the injector balance test.

this is my order you can do it backwards, but will most the time have to start over, and cuss a $200 pump change , in vain.
here is the scotty way.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=064Ilsz8Fzg&NR=1&feature=fvwp


Example 2.
wont start, spark is good, tuneup done. sparks all 4 are wet
this is called flooding, the operators guide, says.
crank with the throttle open (WOT) car starts, it was flooded.
can happen in N.Canana (especially summer fuel in tank)
now car runs find and fresh fuel , 10 x better.
or no?
if no , post car keeps flooding, we can work that too.
is fuel pressure at 60psi, bingo, ask.






\

wow, you did it backwards, $$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$
ever do the op guide lilsted tune ups at 60k intervals? miles>? if not why not?
did you try op guide stated WOT test, crank WOT, wide open throttle.
starts now (well it was flooded1) nothing, well, it's below.

watch scotty.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=064Ilsz8Fzg&NR=1&feature=fvwp

fuses good. battery at 12v not 10v. , fresh fuel, not 3 years old.
key on CEL glows.
cranks engine, cranks robustly.
you then check for spark. on all 6 COP coils. MUST WORK.
iS spark good or bad. .? ( all gas engines. not diesel)

good spark , yes,. try test fuel. (sold in stores,,,,,, in a spray can)
if test fuel runs good for:
no spark , attach any cheap scan tool, and crank for 5 sec.

http://www.fixkick.com/IGN_timing/no-spark.html#Cops

release key (not off) and see if P0340 or P0355 or close are thrown
YES, bingo and make sure RPM shows at near 300 cranking
if not, the CKP is dead.

A: 3 seconds each try, then the engine is good and so is spark if it sounds really good,..
B starts and runs, must have been flooded or no tune up ever.
C: starts and floods, again, and stalls, trouble shoot flooding.
D: Dead as a door nail. that means its:
1: bad engine, (compression way below 170psi)
2: or lost fueling. check spark tips , wet, is flooding or no spark.'
2a: or low fuel pressure, use a fuel pressure gauge.
0 or 2 psi bad, 20 bad, 30 good, 60 bad. 60 it floods. below 30 it starves. the FSM covers all pump tests, there are 6 tests.
there is also an injector balance test, if fails, the injector is dead or leaks all the time and floods a cylinder.

is this good, ?????
if not do you just want a simple guess?
ok my wild useless guess.
1: not ever tuned up;. "know today as, doing the service points''

did you replace spark wire 1 by one,? if not bingo, you layed them down wrong.... (did car just die, by self or after a tune up?)
4.3L V6?

please stop throwing parts, you rich>? (60k tune up excepted always)
the EFI engines will not put out fuel if spark is dead.
what does getting fuel mean?
1: injectors squirt?
2: the cracked open rail plug dribbles?
what?
3;spark plug tips wet,
4: black smoke out tail. what/?
it's a no start, cranks perfect car, you keep saying no crank.
A car that can not crank and can never be started unless push started,
with a M/T STICK gear box.
ANSWER: ?
seems to me its flooding. , no>? soaking wet spark plug tips?
when EFI , floods a car , WOT cranking clears the flood.
Wide open throttle, its in you operator guide, RTM.
so if flooding, what i do us cut power to the fuel pump
the crank it dry. (black smoke out the tail, and then sputters an runs and stalls)
then, i try only test fuel. that is right,, no fuel pump power.
and make sure my engines sounds perfect with just test fuel.
if that is all true runs on test fuel,
then the problem is FUELING ONLY>
all in the span of 10mins work.

see scotty do that here.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=064Ilsz8Fzg&feature=player_detailpage#t=1

this is a very old car is this a TBI car, a very old single injector
engines or MPI , multipoint injection.

read the wiki, see all those engines.
and EFI
which one do you have.

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/GMC_S-15
yours is LB4 or L35 engine?
APPLES and ORANGE different. ! TBI/ MPI.

start with trying to start the car with your foot hard on gas pedal, all the way to the floor this will stop fuel flow on start up its called clear flood mode. as the engine starts to fire and run ease off the pedal until it idles, it may take some time to run smoothly. if it doesnt run or stalls after a short time and then will not run i would try a ECU engine control unit as it supplies the earth circuit to the injectors, may be thats whats holding them open or they are dribbling badly and require overhauling

POSS FUEL PRESSURE LEAKING INTO INTAKE VIA FUEL PRESSURE REGULATOR