Rt frnt wheel vib starts around 35mph & worsens with speed. Hear,feel vib. Lessens with brake pedal depressed. Notice smell when come to a stop. 95 Ford T-Bird LX w/V8.

• Knowing the warning signs of impending trouble can go a long way toward keeping your car from a highway breakdown.
  
  You need to develop an awareness of how your car should sound. For instance, when you turn the key to start, the gear like sound of the starter motor engaging should be smooth and sound like an electric motor working hard to crank the engine. If you notice a different sound - more like a grinding - chances are you have a starter motor problem about to happen. Let's say you're driving along and you feel the steering wheel vibrating at certain speeds. The onset of this subtle vibration could tip you off to a tire that needs to be balanced, worn steering linkage or a bulge in a tire that may be about to blow out. In any case, the vibration needs attention. Normally you shouldn't notice the sound of the exhaust system. A sudden change in your car's sound, therefore, isn't something to ignore.
  
  Suppose you're used to a pleasant hum, then, perhaps after a bump or when starting up the car one morning, there's a loud roaring that sound like a hot rod without a muffler. The harder you press the gas pedal. The louder the noise becomes. A noisy exhaust means the exhaust gases are blowing out under the car rather than at the rear of the car - a dangerous condition. Brakes play their own warning tune. On many cars, a scratching noise coming from the wheels that stops when you stop pressing on the brake pedal is caused by a low-brake warning device. Its purpose is to warn you that you need front brake pads. A loud grinding noise when you step on the brake pedal is an alarm that your brakes need immediate attention. The grinding noise occurs when the brake pads are totally worn away and the metal of the brake pad backing plate rubs directly on the brake rotor.
  
  Ignoring grinding brakes can be a costly - or even deadly - error. Shock absorbers help keep the car steady and balanced while the wheels roll over bumps and ruts. Their modern counterpart, the MacPherson strut, does essentially the same thing. You might not notice worn shocks or struts when you're simply riding around town. The safety effect of these devices comes into play at higher speeds. When you hit a bump, the tire wants to bounce like a basketball. Worn shocks or struts allow the ties to bounce out of control making steering difficult and braking less effective.
  
  What you may notice is the car rocking more every time you stop, assuming an almost boat like quality. Old, broken or worn out shocks and struts should be replaced to ensure safe steering and braking at higher speeds. Engine noises are easiest to hear when the car is not moving. Transmission sounds or brake noises usually occur when the car is moving. Pay attention to any new sound and keep notes - how it sounds, when it makes the sound and what difference, if any, occurs in driving when the noise is present - to help you describe it to your service dealer.

Toyota Sequoia's had a lot of problems abs wise> #1 clear codes with a factory software scanner. then drive it to see what returns. I can not see a brake booster setting 3 codes that are ABS/VSC problems #2 how does the brake pedal feel If it is high and hard pedal then the booster is bad if the engine speeds rise as pedal is depress and you hear escaping air the booster is bad. #3 ABS/VSC are supplemental systems to the normal braking soit will take longer to stop and a possible skid could occur. but you will stop leave more traveling space you should be fine.

tires out of balance or a bad wheel bearing

The flasher does not stop the brake lights from working. Check # 18 fuse in fusebox under lower left side of dash. if it's ok, the brake light switch, on the brake pedal arm is next. light green wire with red stripe is hot if fuse 18 is ok. Depress brake pedal, light green with no stripe should have power. if not, replace brake light switch. If light green wire has power with pedal depressed, combination switch under the steering is next. Remove the cover from around the combo switch {under the steering wheel}. depress brake pedal, light green wire should have power. If it does, pedal still depressed, orange with light blue wire & wire with light green & orange should have power. Those 2 wires are brake & rear turn signal wires. { The turn signal switch should be in the middle, not right position or left. while checking for power in the last 2 wires. Good Luck drvolt.

in a car this 'new' prob. hydraulic. check clutch fluid reservoir- should be near brake fluid res.- will be smaller- if fluid is low, or empty- may be clutch master cylinder, or clutch 'slave' cylinder is leaking. check for leak under car, should smell like 'brake' fluid. if your brake master- both reservoirs are to the full line, and there's fluid under car, close to where clutch master is located, or near front of , or side, of tranny- then it's a clutch problem of some kind (as if you didn't already know this!!) relatively new vehicle (by my standards!), should have hydraulic clutch.
do you mean- when you depress the clutch pedal, it goes to the floor, and you can't shift into any gear??
should have asked this first! front wheel drive or rear? i'll guess front wheel drive. may have hyd. fluid leak in master or slave. (apologize for 'terms', but as 'male & female connectors', it's traditional, non-racist and non-sexist nomenclature!!) gotta' be careful, in the 21st century!! if there are, as i stated previously, 2 similar reservoirs, close to each other, then you prob. have hydraulic clutch. may need 'master' rebuilt, or replaced, or 'slave' replaced-it can be rebuilt, but prob not cost effective!
sorry to be 'long-winded/ texted', good luck!

there is a shift solenoid connected to the brake pedal circuit to release the shifter.it is the click you hear when stepping on the brake.otherwise it stays in park.
the manual overide will let you put it in gear.

Ok, if the wheel bearing assembly was installed incorrectly the wheel would wobble and you would have a disconcerting feeling in the steering wheel. The rotors have to be within factory specs to be turned safely. What I would do is have the rotors checked with a micrometer and replaced.

You most likely have a wheel speed sensor dropping out this would make abs system think one wheel is locking up and therefore activate. this usually will happen rt before you stop at around 5mph or so.Also if you have bigger tires than factory and have not had abs programmed for this size it can aggravate it

First off, be sure your master cylinder is full of brake fluid. Now, starting at the driver wheel, behind or on top the caliper is a bleeder screw. Loosen this screw. The brake fluid may start running out on its own(gravity bleeding)if not then you will need someone to pump the brakes. Using a second person, close the bleeder screw and have them pump the brakes then hold the pedal down. While they have the pedal down, open the bleeder screw and then close it after brake fluid stops coming out. Repeat pumping and holding the brake pedal down then open the bleeder screw until you do not see any air bubbles coming out, should only take 2 or 3 times per wheel. Do the same for the rest of the wheels, starting at the drivers wheel then the passenger front wheel, then the driver rear wheel and ending up on the passenger rear wheel. Make sure your master cylinder does not run out of brake fluid or you will have to start over.
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