I just purchased a '91 740 turbo wagon,that when I test first drove showed no evidence of blowing or leaking any oil- after it was dropped of at my home, I immediately noticed a constant flow of smoke out the exhaust that thickins when the engine is rev'd. Does it have a blown turbo unit or is it burning that much oil overnight? Thankyou, I'd just like some insight before I trust a local techs diagnosis. Also please note: it looks as though oil is either being squirted on the exhaust to turbo flange or out of it- help!

Do you have a external leak or does your engine oil drop but you can not see a leak. My S60 had a leak and it was from the return pipe from the turbo to the sump.You can remove the belly plate and look from the bottom at the back off the engine.You will see the return pipe at the bottom of the turbo. If it does not leak at the there the turbo might be worn and it is blowing the oil into the intake.To check remove the intake hose and check for excess oil in the intake system.

if the turbo is leaking oil into the engine then you have an internal engine problem. the turbo works off of the engines exhaust , therefore if oil is getting back into the intake from the turbo then it is coming from the exhaust. posible worn piston rings or bad valve seals. it also could be a bad turbo bearing and seals letting engine oil leak into the turbo from the turbo oil lines from the engine and blowing back into the intake.

Are you getting any smoke from your exhaust. White smoke.
If your intake manifold is leaking coolant It will not appear in your oil.
Hope this helps.

one of the oil lines probably has a leak in going to the turbo maybe able to get the part from auto parts but most likely will be a dealer part

have you checked to make sure its not leaking into your oil. most heater core leaks will be on the front floor of the passenger side of the car.

dear friend- your turbo is not oil coold,but if you put a pressure tester on pump it ti 15psi and then let it stand for a while look for external leaks if nothing see if the pressure has dropped,if no external leaks were found and the pressure has dropped,it must be internal,if the pressure did not drop then i think the water cap is faulty.

if it drives, then it is driveable. if the turbo is leaking exhaust, it is not necessarily dead, but it is likely not functioning up to it's potential, but it depends how severe the leak is. The bigger the leak, the less drive the turbo has to spin itself up. The vehicle can function just fine indefinitely w/ a completely non-functioning turbo. The turbo is a really cool device, but it's about as essential as your floormats. As far as the price goes, does that $2000 include a new turbo? If so, is that really necessary? if it's just the turbo's gasket leaking you should be able to get away w/ just a gasket to fix the leak. A turbo can be a messy replacement if it is needed as it is the single hottest component in the whole car (it actually glows red when it's working hard since the turbine can spin up to 140,000 rpm). Anything that gets that hot tends to degrade the bolts and nuts that hold it in place over time. If you do decide to do this, keep in mind that there is a matching turbo on the front bank of that motor that is the same age and could potentially be near having the same problem. As far as the O2 sensor goes, it increases your gas mileage by making your engine run more efficiently. O2 sensors go bad over time, and if you're not seeing blue oil smoke coming out of the tailpipe, i wouldn't worry too much about the oil-contamination issue.

Hi, I have a 1996 Volvo wagon 850 turbo. I just bought it and when you hold the rpm's at 3 and a half it was blowing out smoke after about 600 miles it stoped smelling like burning oil and doesn't blow out any smoke. But I use a court of oil in about every 150 miles. What could this be?
Thank's Jodie

The smoke is obviously a big indicator you have oil in the combustion chamber. On turbo motors it is likely coming from a leaking oil seal in the turbo housing itself. But there is a possibility of internal damage like a piston. Might want to run a compression test to eliminate any internal engine issues first, then focus back on the turbo oil seals.

Every manufacturer has a guideline.  But a quart every 1,000 miles seems higher then necessary.  Try the easy steps first. 1.  Check the PCV valve if clogged will caused pressure in crankcase and oil burning. 2. Remove spark plugs and perform visual inspection.  IF electrode is covered in gook(technical terms, sorry), then oil is leaking into that cylinder.  Most likely cause would be faulty valve stem seals. 3. Worse case scenario, engine oil rings are leaking.  If all else is good.  Perform compression test of each cylinder recording measurement, then add two small squirt of engine oil into each cylinder as you perform a second round, complete both dry then wet compression test on each cylinder before proceeding.  IF any cylinder shows a more significant increase in compression then it would indicate that cylinder's oil rings are faulty.  This is a major repair.  Keep me posted