Lifter noise some times 2004 f/150 5.4 3 valve engine

classic HLA problems see now for 80 years if V6/8 engines up.
they are gunked up in side.
or oil pressure is too low. (pump screen clogged)
do not read post here about valve lash, this engine has HLA
we can/t guess of other owners play around with lifters and rockers.
did it all wrong,
but here they are HLA roller , hyd. lash adjusters
as on AUTOMATIC LAST AT ZERO LIFERS
IF OIL PRESSURE TO THEM FAILS THEY FAIL.
IF PATH OF OIL FAILS TO THEM THEY FAIL
AND IF THEY ARE GUNKED UP THEY FAIL
OIL COME THE GALLERY AND LANDS AT THE TINY ONLY SEEN
BELOW WITH A RED ARROW.
most folks just put in a new set and cross fingers.




here they are , in all their Glory , lifters

https://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/chevrolet,1996,c1500+pickup,5.7l+v8,1031500,engine,valve+lifter,5548

This type of noise is usually caused by malfunctioning valve lifters or an exhaust manifold leak. If the noise lasts for more than a minute and completely disappears or dimishes after the engine is warm, the most likely cause is an exhaust manifold leak. If the noise only lasts for a few seconds, the most likely cause is a valve lifter malfunction. You should start your diagnosis with a visual inspection of the exhaust system. Inspect the exhaust manifolds for leaking gaskets or cracks. Black soot marks where the manifold mates to the cylinder head are key indicators of an exhaust manifold gasket leak. Inspect for broken exhaust manifold bolts. Inspect the gasket area where the manifold bolts to the exhaust pipe. Small exhaust leaks can often self seal once the metal engine parts are heated and expanded.
If there are no signs of an exhaust leak and the noise dissipates a few seconds after starting the vehicle, you should suspect an oil control or valve lifter malfunction. Hydraulic valve lifters use the engines oil pressure to expand the lifter which provides a zero valve lash clearance. This prevents the valves from tapping. When the engine is shut off, a valve and spring in the lifter keep it expanded and retain the oil within the lifter. If the valve or spring allows the oil to drain from the lifter, it will collapse. Upon start up, the lifter will take a few moments to "pump up" and expand as the oil pressure builds in the engine. During this time, the valves may tap since there is clearance between the rocker arm and lifter..

FOR MORE DETAILED HELP CLICK THE LINK BELOW:

https://carrepairworld.blogspot.com/2021/06/car-valve-chatter-only-at-startup.html

THIS WILL HELP THANKS.

Most engines now use hydraulic lifters and they can leak a little, this causes space between then lifter and the push rod. This results in a tapping noise that goes away when they get warm or fill back up.

Chevy Vortec lifter & valve tap how to repair it - YouTube

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May 22, 2012 - Uploaded by AdirondackNY
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4.3 engine knock lifter or bearing? - YouTube

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https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=oSbyAbS6e2c
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any idea weather its a rod bearing or a lifter or even summin else? the service engine light is on because i have the air intake off. Just did an oil change ... ... Up next. Engine Knocking or Ticking?!? This Could Be Your "FIX" ...

Ticking Noise From Valve Lash Adjusters Due to Infrequent ...

repairpal.com > Problems > Mazda > Mazda6

Hi there:
Firts I suggest check this information about "engine noses"...
ENGINE CLICKING NOISES
A clicking or tapping noise that gets louder when you rev the engine is probably "tappet" or upper valvetrain noise caused by one of several things: low oil pressure, excessive valve lash, or worn or damaged parts.

First, check the engine dipstick to see if the oil level is low. If low, add oil to bring it back up to the full mark. Is the engine still noisy? Check your oil pressure. A low gauge reading (or oil warning light) would indicate a serious internal engine problem that is preventing normal oil pressure from reaching the upper valvetrain components. The cause might be a worn or damaged oil pump, a clogged oil pump pickup screen or a plugged up oil filter. Using too thick a viscosity of motor oil during cold weather can also slow down the flow of oil to the upper valvetrain, causing noise and wear.

COLLAPSED LIFTER NOISE
Worn, leaky or dirty lifters can also cause valvetrain noise. If oil delivery is restricted to the lifters (plugged oil galley or low oil pressure), the lifters won't "pump up" to take up the normal slack in the valvetrain. A "collapsed" lifter will then allow excessive valve lash and noise.

VALVE LASH NOISE
If you can rule out lubrication-related problems as a cause, the next step would be to remove the valve cover(s) and check valve lash. On older import engines, mechanical lifters require periodic valve lash adjustments (typically every 30,000 miles). Too much space between the tips of the rocker arms and valve stems can make the valvetrain noisy -- and possibly cause accelerated wear of both parts.

To measure (and adjust) valve lash, you need a feeler gauge. The gauge is slid between the tip of the valve stem and rocker arm (or the cam follower or the cam itself on overhead cam engines) when the piston is at top dead center (valve fully closed). Refer to a manual for the specified lash and adjustment procedure. Also, note whether the lash spec is for a hot or cold engine (this makes a big difference!).

On engines with hydraulic lifters, oil pressure pumps up the lifters when the engine is running to maintain zero lash in the valvetrain. This results in quiet operation. So if the rocker arms are clattering, it tells you something is amiss (bad lifter or worn or damaged parts) or the rocker arms need adjusting.

DAMAGED ENGINE PARTS NOISE
Inspect the valvetrain components. Excessive wear on the ends of the rocker arms, cam followers (overhead cam engines) and/or valve stems can open up the valve lash and cause noise. So too can a bent pushrod or a broken valve spring.

RAPPING OR DEEP KNOCKING ENGINE SOUND
Usually bad news. A deep rapping noise from the engine is usually "rod knock," a condition brought on by extreme bearing wear or damage. If the rod bearings are worn or loose enough to make a dull, hammering noise, you're driving on borrowed time. Sooner or later one of the bearings will fail, and when it does one of two things will happen: the bearing will seize and lock up the engine, or it will attempt to seize and break a rod. Either way your engine will suffer major damage and have to be rebuilt or replaced.

Bearing noise is not unusual in high mileage engines as well as those that have been neglected and have not had the oil and filter changed regularly. It can also be caused by low oil pressure, using too light a viscosity oil, oil breakdown, dirty oil or dirt in the crankcase, excessive blowby from worn rings and/or cylinders (gasoline dilutes and thins the oil), incorrect engine assembly (bearings too loose), loose or broken connecting rod bolts, or abusive driving.

Bearing wear can be checked by dropping the oil pan and inspecting the rod and main bearings. If the bearings are badly worn, damaged or loose, replacing the bearings may buy you some time. But if the bearings are badly worn or damaged, the crankshaft will probably have to be resurfaced - which means a complete engine overhaul or replacing the engine is the vehicle is worth the expense.

ENGINE PINGS OR KNOCKS WHEN ACCELERATING
The cause here may be Spark Knock (Detonation) caused by an inoperative EGR valve, overadvanced ignition timing, engine overheating, carbon buildup in the combustion chambers, or low octane fuel.

Hope this helps; also keep in mind that your feedback is important and I`ll appreciate your time and consideration if you leave some testimonial comment about this answer.

Thank you for using FixYa, have a nice day

Yes, you're right, those could be the cause. Also, possible it's a collapsed hydraulic valve lifter, if your car has hydraulic operated (from engine oil) valve lifters. At any rate, it sounds like something loose in the valve train-valve lifter with push rod engines; or cam followers {rocker arms) with overhead cam engines that push on the top of valve stems .
Check a repair manual to see if your engine has valves that can be and need adjusting. Engines with valve lifters do not require periodic adjustment for proper valve clearance. Engines with rocker arms do require checking the valve clearance every couple of years or so.

Check this information about "engine noses"...

ENGINE CLICKING NOISES
A clicking or tapping noise that gets louder when you rev the engine is probably "tappet" or upper valvetrain noise caused by one of several things: low oil pressure, excessive valve lash, or worn or damaged parts.

First, check the engine dipstick to see if the oil level is low. If low, add oil to bring it back up to the full mark. Is the engine still noisy? Check your oil pressure. A low gauge reading (or oil warning light) would indicate a serious internal engine problem that is preventing normal oil pressure from reaching the upper valvetrain components. The cause might be a worn or damaged oil pump, a clogged oil pump pickup screen or a plugged up oil filter. Using too thick a viscosity of motor oil during cold weather can also slow down the flow of oil to the upper valvetrain, causing noise and wear.

COLLAPSED LIFTER NOISE
Worn, leaky or dirty lifters can also cause valvetrain noise. If oil delivery is restricted to the lifters (plugged oil galley or low oil pressure), the lifters won't "pump up" to take up the normal slack in the valvetrain. A "collapsed" lifter will then allow excessive valve lash and noise.

VALVE LASH NOISE
If you can rule out lubrication-related problems as a cause, the next step would be to remove the valve cover(s) and check valve lash. On older import engines, mechanical lifters require periodic valve lash adjustments (typically every 30,000 miles). Too much space between the tips of the rocker arms and valve stems can make the valvetrain noisy -- and possibly cause accelerated wear of both parts.

To measure (and adjust) valve lash, you need a feeler gauge. The gauge is slid between the tip of the valve stem and rocker arm (or the cam follower or the cam itself on overhead cam engines) when the piston is at top dead center (valve fully closed). Refer to a manual for the specified lash and adjustment procedure. Also, note whether the lash spec is for a hot or cold engine (this makes a big difference!).

On engines with hydraulic lifters, oil pressure pumps up the lifters when the engine is running to maintain zero lash in the valvetrain. This results in quiet operation. So if the rocker arms are clattering, it tells you something is amiss (bad lifter or worn or damaged parts) or the rocker arms need adjusting.

DAMAGED ENGINE PARTS NOISE
Inspect the valvetrain components. Excessive wear on the ends of the rocker arms, cam followers (overhead cam engines) and/or valve stems can open up the valve lash and cause noise. So too can a bent pushrod or a broken valve spring.

RAPPING OR DEEP KNOCKING ENGINE SOUND
Usually bad news. A deep rapping noise from the engine is usually "rod knock," a condition brought on by extreme bearing wear or damage. If the rod bearings are worn or loose enough to make a dull, hammering noise, you're driving on borrowed time. Sooner or later one of the bearings will fail, and when it does one of two things will happen: the bearing will seize and lock up the engine, or it will attempt to seize and break a rod. Either way your engine will suffer major damage and have to be rebuilt or replaced.

Bearing noise is not unusual in high mileage engines as well as those that have been neglected and have not had the oil and filter changed regularly. It can also be caused by low oil pressure, using too light a viscosity oil, oil breakdown, dirty oil or dirt in the crankcase, excessive blowby from worn rings and/or cylinders (gasoline dilutes and thins the oil), incorrect engine assembly (bearings too loose), loose or broken connecting rod bolts, or abusive driving.

Bearing wear can be checked by dropping the oil pan and inspecting the rod and main bearings. If the bearings are badly worn, damaged or loose, replacing the bearings may buy you some time. But if the bearings are badly worn or damaged, the crankshaft will probably have to be resurfaced - which means a complete engine overhaul or replacing the engine is the vehicle is worth the expense.

ENGINE PINGS OR KNOCKS WHEN ACCELERATING
The cause here may be Spark Knock (Detonation) caused by an inoperative EGR valve, overadvanced ignition timing, engine overheating, carbon buildup in the combustion chambers, or low octane fuel.

Hope this helps; also keep in mind that your feedback is important and I`ll appreciate your time and consideration if you leave some testimonial comment about this answer.

Thank you for using FixYa, have a nice day

lifters tick and noise is upper end of engine if lifters are making noise could be from a bad valve,bad lifter ,push rod ,oil pressure,rocker arm - need to take do compression test find out if valve problem and which cylinder is problem also take off valve cover and check for proper oiling of valve head and look to see if and are damaged or loose-------a knocking sound usually comes from lower end of engine,rod knock etc.and thats usually rebuild of engine

ENGINE CLICKING NOISES
A clicking or tapping noise that gets louder when you rev the engine is probably "tappet" or upper valvetrain noise caused by one of several things: low oil pressure, excessive valve lash, or worn or damaged parts.
First, check the engine dipstick to see if the oil level is low. If low, add oil to bring it back up to the full mark. Is the engine still noisy? Check your oil pressure. A low gauge reading (or oil warning light) would indicate a serious internal engine problem that is preventing normal oil pressure from reaching the upper valvetrain components. The cause might be a worn or damaged oil pump, a clogged oil pump pickup screen or a plugged up oil filter. Using too thick a viscosity of motor oil during cold weather can also slow down the flow of oil to the upper valvetrain, causing noise and wear.
COLLAPSED LIFTER NOISE
Worn, leaky or dirty lifters can also cause valvetrain noise. If oil delivery is restricted to the lifters (plugged oil galley or low oil pressure), the lifters won't "pump up" to take up the normal slack in the valvetrain. A "collapsed" lifter will then allow excessive valve lash and noise.
VALVE LASH NOISE
If you can rule out lubrication-related problems as a cause, the next step would be to remove the valve cover(s) and check valve lash. On older import engines, mechanical lifters require periodic valve lash adjustments (typically every 30,000 miles). Too much space between the tips of the rocker arms and valve stems can make the valvetrain noisy -- and possibly cause accelerated wear of both parts.
To measure (and adjust) valve lash, you need a feeler gauge. The gauge is slid between the tip of the valve stem and rocker arm (or the cam follower or the cam itself on overhead cam engines) when the piston is at top dead center (valve fully closed). Refer to a manual for the specified lash and adjustment procedure. Also, note whether the lash spec is for a hot or cold engine (this makes a big difference!).
On engines with hydraulic lifters, oil pressure pumps up the lifters when the engine is running to maintain zero lash in the valvetrain. This results in quiet operation. So if the rocker arms are clattering, it tells you something is amiss (bad lifter or worn or damaged parts) or the rocker arms need adjusting.

Let me know if you have any other questions.  Thanks for rating my response and for using FixYa!

You might have a bad hydraulic valve lifter (assuming this engine has them)... you could try an aftermarket product designed to unstick valve lifters.... any auto parts store carries them.