98 Volvo V70 GLT - Oil Pump or Valve Job?

Since he replace the reservoir, most likely it is the pump. These pumps have fiberboard vanes, so don't worry about replacing the rack. I don't know about your car, but if the pump is on top, labor is about an hour. If it on bottom, look at about 3 hours. I have done some that have taken every bit of 3 hours, all the parts that have to removed or dropping the frame. Don't get me wrong, I have worked on plenty of Volvo,s. But I work on everything and just do the job.

Yes, engine worn (or more to the point, piston rings are) allowing compression gases past rings into oil circulation system which the emerges the ways you've found

After putting in the steering oil, without putting the oil cap, start the engine and make full turn to right and left a few time, then check oil level and job is done.

It may be the gromet for the PCV valve or it could be the spark plug rubber seal located in the valve cover if it is the type of engine that has the wires and spark plugs that go down through the valve cover, if this is the case buy a valve cover gasket with the rubber gromets that are located around the base of the hole where spark plugs fit through and install.

No different from any other oil change, just reset the oil life on the dash if it has one which i believe it does. The oil grade is 5W-30 on the turbo engines and 10W-30 on the non turbo engines. If you like you can go with the synthetic oil which will give you up to 25,000 miles or 1 year before service, but you do have to replace the oil filter every 5,000 to 7,000 mile and top off the synthetic oil which in the long run be cheaper then changing the oil and filter every 5,000 miles or six months for turbo and 3,000 to 4 months for non turbo engines. Good luck and hope this helps. 

If the air pump system is setting a fault, then the check valve is probably bad. If it is not addressed, eventually exhaust gases can run back through the air hose to the air filter housing and destroy the MAF sensor, causing these types of problems.

The fuel pump also fails and is a more likely cause of the stalling, and it wont set a code.

There are 3 engine choices in the 98 volvo v70. All are 5 cylinders, 1. 2.3L turbo
2. 2.4L MFI DOC
3.2.4L Turbo
#2 is the most common engine for that year and model. If your engine doesn't have a turbo, that's the one u have.

The V70 naturally aspirated engine in 1998 is an interference engine, which means if your timing belt breaks, you will bend every intake valve in the engine, necessitating a valve job at the very least; around $5K. As soon as you buy the car, spend the $500 to replace the belt, the idler pulleys, the adjustment pulley, and the water pump. Change your thermostat at the same time.

Look at the motor mounts, they are likely broken, check your constant-velocity joints for play (you'll feel a 'wobble' on acceleration through a turn), and you can get aftermarket delrin bushings for the struts, as long as they're not leaking. Have your mechanic inspect and replace the headlamp sockets (they get burnt and cause rapid failure of headlight bulbs). Whenever you do brakes have the mechanic clean, inspect, and electrically test the ABS wheel sensors.

Other than that, a nice solid car.

Milethro,

I'm guessing your car has over 100,000 miles, right?

Hi, I currently have a 98 V70 XC Cross Country that was throwing the secondary injector air pump code. I removed the pump (under the battery tray) and it was filled with water. This happens because the check valve sticks open and allows the exhaust water vapor to accumulate in the pump as the air pump is mounted lower than the check valve (located behind engine back by firewall)

If you locate your air pump, just put 12 volts dc to it from the battery to see if it comes on and winds up..........it'll sound like a jet engine taking off if everything is working. Run jumper wires from the battery posts down to the air pump connector.

I removed the pump and freed up the bearings, then drilled two small drain holes in the casing. Works fine now. Also removed the check valve and cleaned. Checked with a MityVac vacuum pump to make sure check valve diaphrapgm wasn't leaking. Okay, just dirty. Working fine now. Do a Google search on the Volvo secondary air injection pump and you will find good info on removing the pump and valve for repairs or cleaning. These air pumps are expensive, so try removing and fixing yours first. Volvo had a bad problem with water accumulating in these pumps. Most junk yards don't have any in stock due to the cost. Most have been removed by now.

My problem now with the wagon is excessive cranking when cold. When I first try to start it, it will crank for 7-8 seconds, then start. If I immediately shut it off and try to restart it, it restarts quickly every time. Wondering if I have a fuel pressure problem? Any thoughts?

Possibly your pick up tube seals have gone bad. I have seen that happen a few times.