My son's car is out of fluid. no resistance at

Check the clutch fluid level. It will be a small reservoir close to the brake master cylinder. If the clutch reservoir is empty, add fluid.( brake fluid ) You may have to perform a bleed procedure at the clutch slave cylinder attached to the transmission Pump the clutch pedal several times and have someone open the bleeder screw until fluid comes out and the clutch pedal has its resistance back

you need 2 persons to bleed brakes one have to seat inside the car and pump or hold brake pressed,Add brake fluid to the top ,next ask someone to pump brake few times when it will get hard,then hold while pressing loose bleeder half a turn the pedal will go all the way down and still need to be pressed ,fluid will run through the bleeder ,then tight bleeder back and repeat the steps ,pump, press, bleed ,few times per each brake caliper ,don't forgot to add fluid to the reservoir

1. Check the fluid level in the reservoir after bleeding each wheel. Add DOT3 fluid, if necessary.
2. If the master cylinder was disassembled or if the reservoir becomes empty, bleed the air from the master cylinder as follows:
   1. Disconnect the brake lines from the master cylinder.
   2. Slowly depress the brake pedal and hold it.
   3. Block off the outlet plug with your finger, and release the brake pedal.
   4. Repeat 3 or 4 times.
   
   
3. Bleed the brake starting with the one furthest from the reservoir and then the next furthest, etc.
   
4. Depress the brake pedal several times, then loosen the bleeder plug with the pedal held down.
5. At the point when fluid stops coming out, tighten the bleeder plug to 11 Nm (8 ft. lbs.), then release the brake pedal.
6. Repeat until all the air in the fluid has been bled out.
7. Repeat the procedure to bleed the air out of brake line for each wheel.
8. Check the fluid level and add DOT3 fluid if necessary.

Did you bleed the brakes? Pump the brakes?

1.Check the brake fluid under the hood ,and if its low ,add more .
2.If its not that, look under the car to see if you have any brake fluid leaks,main areas to look is
around the wheels on the back side of the tires where the bleeding nuts are and under the motor where the brake cylider is. You may have a hole in the brake line located in those area.

start from the fartherest place from brake master cylinder, that will be the rear passenger side wheel. it takes two people to bleed brakes. you will find the bleeder valve screws at the top of inside of the rear drums on both rear wheels, have someone pump the brakes up, will take at least 4 pumps of brake pedal, at 4th pump keep pressure on pedal while you break loose the bleeder valve on the rear wheel, fluid will come out and brake pedal will go down to floor, keep pressure on brake pedal until you've tightened the bleeder screw back [note] you'll only have to back the bleeder valve out about a half turn until you see the fluid come out. after you've done the rear brakes add brake fluid to the master cylinder as it will be low. then go to the front passeger side and you will find the bleeder screw on the brake caliper. repeat the same proceedure as back. remember that pressure on the pedal is a must until you've tightened those bleeder valve screws back or else it will **** air into the brake system. suggest that you bleed all 4 wheels not just the back. after you've bled the front make sure you add more brake fluid back to the master cylinder, it will be low again. hope this helps and thank you for choosing fixya.com

did u bleed the brakes ? there could be an air bubble causing blockage

Bleeding the Brakes
EXCEPT HYDRO-BOOST OR ABS(see Figures 1, 2, 3 and 4)
To bleed the brakes on a vehicle equipped with ABS, please refer to the ABS bleeding procedure in this section.
The brake system must be bled when any brake line is disconnected or there is air in the system.
Never bleed a wheel cylinder when a drum is removed.

1. Clean the master cylinder of excess dirt and remove the cylinder cover and the diaphragm.
2. Fill the master cylinder to the proper level. Check the fluid level periodically during the bleeding process and replenish it as necessary. Do not allow the master cylinder to run dry, or you will have to start over.
3. Before opening any of the bleeder screws, you may want to give each one a shot of penetrating solvent. This reduces the possibility of breakage when they are unscrewed.

Fig. 1: Connect one end of a clear plastic tube to the bleeder screw and submerge the other end in clean brake fluid



Fig. 2: Have an assistant pump, then hold in the brake pedal, while you bleed each wheel



Fig. 3: Using the combination valve depressor-R/V Series



Fig. 4: Using the combination valve depressor-C/K Series

1. Attach a length of vinyl hose to the bleeder screw of the brake to be bled. Insert the other end of the hose into a clear jar half full of clean brake fluid, so that the end of the hose is beneath the level of fluid. The correct sequence for bleeding is to work from the brake farthest from the master cylinder to the one closest; right rear, left rear, right front, left front.
2. The combination valve must be held open during the bleeding process. A clip, tape, or other similar tool (or an assistant) will hold the metering pin in.
3. Depress and release the brake pedal three or four times to exhaust any residual vacuum.
4. Have an assistant push down on the brake pedal and hold it down. Open the bleeder valve slightly. As the pedal reaches the end of its travel, close the bleeder screw and release the brake pedal. Repeat this process until no air bubbles are visible in the expelled fluid.

Make sure your assistant presses the brake pedal to the floor slowly. Pressing too fast will cause air bubbles to form in the fluid.

1. Repeat this procedure at each of the brakes. Remember to check the master cylinder level occasionally. Use only fresh fluid to refill the master cylinder, not the stuff bled from the system.
2. When the bleeding process is complete, refill the master cylinder, install its cover and diaphragm, and discard the fluid bled from the brake system.

HYDRO-BOOSTThe system should be bled whenever the booster is removed and installed.

1. Fill the power steering pump until the fluid level is at the base of the pump reservoir neck. Disconnect the battery lead from the distributor.
   

Remove the electrical lead to the fuel solenoid terminal on the injection pump before cranking the engine.

1. Jack up the front of the car, turn the wheels all the way to the left, and crank the engine for a few seconds.
2. Check steering pump fluid level. If necessary, add fluid to the "ADD" mark on the dipstick.
3. Lower the car, connect the battery lead, and start the engine. Check fluid level and add fluid to the "ADD" mark, as necessary. With the engine running, turn the wheels from side to side to bleed air from the system. Make sure that the fluid level stays above the internal pump casting.
4. The Hydro-Boost system should now be fully bled. If the fluid is foaming after bleeding, stop the engine, let the system set for one hour, then repeat the second part of Step 4.
   

The preceding procedures should be effective in removing the excess air from the system, however sometimes air may still remain trapped. When this happens the booster may make a gulping noise when the brake is applied. Lightly pumping the brake pedal with the engine running should cause this noise to disappear. After the noise stops, check the pump fluid level and add as necessary.


Hope helps with this (remember comment and rated this).

check the brake and clutch fluid resiviors.
if low add dot3 brake fluid.
but if sounds like the clutch is done.
about $800 to replace .

pump brakes up and hold. have someone fill up resovouir. put top on and release brakes.