1996 landrover dicovery , breaklights staying on all the time. Removed trailer wireing and checked break pedel switch , which is working fine. Heard that there is a second switch on the transmition somewhere, could this be the problem? if so, where would this be located?

CHECK BRAKE LIGHT SWITCH AND ITS WIRING.AND CHECK ALL BRAKE LIGHT BULBS SOCKETS FOR ANY SIGNS BURN MELT SOCKETS. YOU WILL FIND WHAT SHORTING OUT BLOWING FUSE.

The tail lights and licence lamp is all the same circuit, should be a brown wire to all 3, it sounds like its broken in the harness somewhere (especially if the front park lamps work, then the fuse and switch are good). Trace back from rear lights until you find power. Check for pinched wires or cut, or bulges in the wire indicating resistence. Also if you have wired in a trailer plug, disconnect it and retry. Trailer wires are very seldomly wired properly and cause lots of light issues.

Check to insure a good ground on your rig, harness and trailer. Too many times the ball is used for ground, it doesn't work. Then I'd take it to someone else.

Is there voltage at the truck connector? If not, check the fuse. If the fuse is OK, then check the condition of the wiring. I see trucks all the time on the road with dangling wiring harnesses, and it is very common for the wiring to get damaged. Good luck.

The brake lights stay on even when the vehicle has been restored to the "before" condition?!? Now that's strange. I'm assuming the brake lights worked properly before you did anything with the trailer hookup. Is that correct? Do the brake lights work OK when a trailer is hooked up to the trailer lighting harness? Regardless, if the brake lights stay on all the time, there is a continuous 12V to the bulbs to ground. You have a wiring short somewhere in the vehicle. Have you checked the wiring for bare spots (caused by rubbing) or cuts in the wires.

Since the brake lights won't turn off, you have created a continuous path of 12V through the bulbs to ground, regardless of the brake switch operation. If you did not use the plug in type of wiring harness to attach the "trailer plug", then I would systematically undo each wire that you attached to and see what fixes the problem. I assume you know that the Blazer has a trailer connection plug-in location tucked up under the rear bumper. You simply unplug the mating harnesses, plug in the trailer wiring connector, plug in the disconnected harnesses and wha-la you should be good to go.

Hope helps.

yOU WILL HAVE TO PLACE THE sWITCH IN THE STEARING COLUME IT COST ABOUT 90 DOLLARS.

Check the turn signal flasher,and the trailer wire adapter that plugs in under the rear of the truck.Check the brake light switch,to see if it is grounding out on something.

Check ground wire to the trailer. On the vehicle and the trailer. Make sure you have a good ground as lighting will seek any path for ground which will feedback and cause lights to act really weird.

1st get autozone to clear the code, (free) The only thing I can think of that goes out when car is off and on when lights turn on is the parking lights on the side, the wires could be touching in the conduit, start car and pull brake fuse out, if the lights stay on you have a short, if only the park lights stay on (double filiment) look at the lighting system, but if the brake and driving light stay on, sounds like an ecu problem.

This engine has a timing belt.Once you have removed the engine front cover , turn the engine to the marks as shown in the diagram.Lock the crankshaft in this position with an old reverse light switch from the gearbox by inserting it into the hole under the bell housing (manual transmission).Before removing the belt , loosen 3 bolts on the injector pump after you locked this with a 8.5 mm drill bit.Replace the belt and pull the tensioner to 16 Nm.If you are fitting a whole pulley replacement kit take note of the upgraded spacers and their position.Dont forget to tighten the injector pump bolts again after you tensioned the belt and recheck your timing marks.