THE BELOW IS THE PROCEDURE FOR REPLACEMENT OF BULB IN THE HEADLIGHT, IT ALSO CONTAINS DETAILS HOW TO REMOVE HEAD LIGHT ASSEMBLY ALSO
So step one - go get 3 (or 4 if you replace turn signal) bulbs. The front marker and side marker are the same bulb type.
Step two - remove the middle grill. The top connectors are visible and you can use a flat-bladed screw driver to compress the side or top and jiggle them so they pop loose. One you get the top part of the grill loose - DO NOT just pull outward - you will break the non-visible two lower connectors and get to go to the dealer again to get new ones. Instead, to remove the grill once the top part is loose, PULL UP. These light gray lower connectors are inbedded in the Head Lamp assembly.
The exterior trim piece is next. The two top black poppers need to be jimmied up 1/4 inch and then they pull out. The trim piece has 3 additional attachment points that are hidden. About the middle and a few inches to the outbound side, there are 2. They have an outbound facing notch, and the trim piece needs to be tapped towards the outward direction (side of the car) until it is free of them. This piece can flex a bit - its OK - but don't overdo. The final attachment is at the outermost corner that is a 1/4" male that plugs into a female fitting - This can be carefully pulled out and the trim piece is off.
The next part is the Head Lamp Assembly. There are 3 screws which the owners Manual actually correctly identifies. These come out. And the assembly is basically loose, but attached by 4 cables going into the Assembly. The Marker lights and turn signal are easy - just untwist them. When you reconnect them - they have VERY different slot keys, so you won't have trouble remembering which is which. The tough one is the headlamp.
The connector to the bulb has a rubberized cover. You can't see it while it is in place,but it has the word "PUSH" and two arrows on it pointing at the sides. You need to press in on the sides, a little higher than the middle, and disconnect the bulb connector. I had to gently use channel locks to do this.
When the connector is removed, you can remove the rubber dam material surrounding the light. It may stick, but this entire thing will come off, making removal of the bulb a much simpler task.
Once this is removed, you will see a wire latch holding the lamp in. Squeeze the wire latch (like pinching a clothes pin - kind of) at the top and it should release the bulb, which can now be simply removed from the enclosure.
Replacement is the reverse and will be much easier now that you see all the parts that were previously hidden. So step one - go get 3 (or 4 if you replace turn signal) bulbs. The front marker and side marker are the same bulb type.
Step two - remove the middle grill. The top connectors are visible and you can use a flat-bladed screw driver to compress the side or top and jiggle them so they pop loose. One you get the top part of the grill loose - DO NOT just pull outward - you will break the non-visible two lower connectors and get to go to the dealer again to get new ones. Instead, to remove the grill once the top part is loose, PULL UP. These light gray lower connectors are inbedded in the Head Lamp assembly.
The exterior trim piece is next. The two top black poppers need to be jimmied up 1/4 inch and then they pull out. The trim piece has 3 additional attachment points that are hidden. About the middle and a few inches to the outbound side, there are 2. They have an outbound facing notch, and the trim piece needs to be tapped towards the outward direction (side of the car) until it is free of them. This piece can flex a bit - its OK - but don't overdo. The final attachment is at the outermost corner that is a 1/4" male that plugs into a female fitting - This can be carefully pulled out and the trim piece is off.
The next part is the Head Lamp Assembly. There are 3 screws which the owners Manual actually correctly identifies. These come out. And the assembly is basically loose, but attached by 4 cables going into the Assembly. The Marker lights and turn signal are easy - just untwist them. When you reconnect them - they have VERY different slot keys, so you won't have trouble remembering which is which. The tough one is the headlamp.
The connector to the bulb has a rubberized cover. You can't see it while it is in place,but it has the word "PUSH" and two arrows on it pointing at the sides. You need to press in on the sides, a little higher than the middle, and disconnect the bulb connector. I had to gently use channel locks to do this.
When the connector is removed, you can remove the rubber dam material surrounding the light. It may stick, but this entire thing will come off, making removal of the bulb a much simpler task.
Once this is removed, you will see a wire latch holding the lamp in. Squeeze the wire latch (like pinching a clothes pin - kind of) at the top and it should release the bulb, which can now be simply removed from the enclosure.
Replacement is the reverse and will be much easier now that you see all the parts that were previously hidden.
SOURCE: 2006 SUBARU FORESTER HEADLIGHTS
open hood,unplug wire to bulb,pulloff rubber boot.There is a paperclip like thing you squeeze,ant bulb will come out.reverse the order.ok
SOURCE: how do i replace the fog light on a 2005 subaru
May be able to access it through popping a couple of clips on the inner fender well when your tire is turned hard to the side your working on. Only other way is removing the bumper or possibly the engine splash shield.
SOURCE: 1998 Subaru Forester, trying to change the water
http://techinfo.subaru.com/html/index.jsp
Great place to start. Have a good day.
SOURCE: How do i adjust the headlight beam on my Subaru
on each headlamp assembly, there will be either one or two plastic nuts that you can turn.
If you only have one nut on each, that will adjust the vertical aim of the headlights.
If you have two nuts on each, one will adjust the vertical and the other will adjust the horizontal.
Park
your car on a level ground 30 feet from a wall and measure the height
from the ground to the bulb and mark on a wall (do this for highs beams
and low beams if the bulbs are separate, if highs and lows are the same
bulb, only do it for the lows)
If the headlights read VOR, then
aim the brightest part or cutoff part just below the mark on the wall.
If it says VOL or nothing, aim them 2 inches below the mark on the wall.
SOURCE: Replacing digital clock lamp in 2005 Subaru Forester
If your talking about replacing your Forester Clock module, you can find helpful tips at www.subaru-clock.com. If your clock is not working, it is most likely the clock module, which can be refurbished inexpensively at the aforementioned site. A "dead" or intermittent clock display is a common problem with certain years of Subaru.
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