2002 gmc abs light is on tested sensors with ohm meter right hand side tested 15 ohms and left side tested 0 ohms where is my problem.

Ohm meter or hertz meter. Ohm the outer leads. It should be low 17 to 37 ohms. Anything above or below is bad. Ohm the ground side and the center lead. This will be high ohms. Just a guess but anything above 2000 ohms I would replace it. Using a hertz meter use the ground and center lead. Then use a screwdrivers and sweep it back and forth across the sensor. You should get a reading, if not it's bad.

get the OBD codes read , or have you and this is where your question comes from ? i'd start at the sensor at the wheel that your looking into , check the "air" gap isn't clogged with some road grime etc , also check the wiring for any damage as is in a vunerable position by a wheel,to check further you would need diagnostic equipment as electronic parts are easily damaged further using the wrong equipment , hope this helps

to test sensor you need to spin wheel the readings should go up and down. ABS Light ON HOW TO TEST ABS SENSOR with Multimeter Car Repairs Brakes...

I quote some details from BMW's owners...
Symptoms: Dreaded yellow triangle, ABS light, and CEL on. All other functions (speedo, tach, cruise control, trip computer, etc) working.

Procedure: Pull the ABS controller out and disconnect it from the wiring harness. Mine is under a panel to the left of the glove compartment. Remove the wiring backshell so you can get at the wiring connections on the back side of the connecting plug (you need to be able to see the colors of the wires and get a Ohm meter probe on them).

Using a Bentleys Electrical Manual find the connection diagram for the wheel sensors to the ABS Controller. The pin designators will most likely be wrong (they were for mine) BUT the color designators for each of the wires is correct.

Example: Right Rear sensor is connected by two wires, one blue and one blue green.

Connect Ohm meter across these two pins. NOTE: I wound paper clips around the probes to make a very small probe tip which helps. Write down the resistance reading. Mine was 3.08k ohms.

Work through the other 3 wheels and write down the resistance readings. If any of the pairs is open (i.e. infinite resistance) you have a bad connection between the ABS Controller and the wheel sensor. You can then remove the affected wheel, unplug the sensor, short out the pins on the plug (not the wheel sensor part but the chassis wiring part) and if the ohm meter is still reading open you have a broken cable between the wheel sensor and the ABS controller. If the cable is good connect the ohm meter across the wheel sensor itself and if the cable still reads open you have a bad wheel sensor, replace and retest.

Here is what I found. All wheels read 3.08k ohms except the right rear which read 4.4M ohms. This sensor was replaced during my rebuild exercise and it looks like they provided the wrong part. I replaced the part with a dealer item and retested. 3.08k ohms was read with the new part. Reconnected everything and the ABS light went out, the yellow triangle light went out. I used my OBDII computer interface to clear the CEL light and all is well again.

Total testing/repair time: 2hrs and 35 minutes!

Here is my theory. The "older" ABS Controllers (like mine) use sensors with the lower reisitance (3.08k ohm) while the newer Controllers use the higher resistance sensors (4.4M ohm). The part I bought was from a 02 E39! I can return it but I think I will use it to test my 00 528 problems first.

Additionally, I suggest check charging system (alternator/power module/battery) has a defect that a professional BMW technician should look at, Most probably the alternator is toast.

Hope this helps; also keep in mind that your feedback is important and I'll appreciate your time and consideration if you leave some testimonial comment about this answer.

Thank you for using Fixya, and have a nice day.

Hi
You can test the sensor with an ohm meter . Unplug the conecter from the sensor . There are three connecter pins . The top being one and the bottom three.

With the meter leads accross terminals 1 and 2 and the pedal at idle position the meter should read 20 ohms .
At wide open position it should read 6000 ohms .

Then put leads accross terminals 2 and 3 .
At idle position meter shouls read 0
at wide open should read 4600 ohm,

the most common cause is wheel speed sensor or sensor wiring not reading proper wheel speed.it is also possible the reluctor wheel inside front bearing is clogged with rust and debris and unable to send magnetic pulse. This can be tested with scanner to determine wheel in question.ohm meter can be used to test sensor and reluctor pulse.

a continunity test is nothing more than making sure the fuse is not popped. or a wire is not broken, or a switch is not not making contact when the switch is switched.
0 would indicate no problems. Good connection
1 to 50 ohms would indicate a poor connection
infinity or no numbers would mean there is no contact.
Set the meter to ohms or put it on the beeper mode to test.

DO NOT touch power on ohms mode or you will toast the meter if it does not have a fuse inline.

Try this. put the probes in each hand. You will see resistance. The closer you get the probes together on one hand you will get closer to 0 ohms. When the probes touch each other then you will have 0. This is a perfect connection.

Something as simple as a different tire size can cause the abs to go nuts. I even had it where the two tires were the same size. But a different brand name. Each manufacture has their own tire sizing so not all tires a equal in size. Even though it says on the side of the tire that they are the same size.

Sometimes the cooper inside the insulation of the wires going to the sensors corrodes. Especially on the front units. It reads more ohms than normal but not open and is very intermittent. However moving the wires my make it work for a while. That's why replacing bearings seems to fix the problem but it comes back after a while.

You can test the speed sensors yourself...
Front sensor specs:
956 to 1240 ohms in 41 to 110 degree weather
at least 100mV AC (NOT DC!) volts when hub is spun by hand
Rear sensor specs:
950 to 1300 ohms in 41 to 110 degree weather
At least 100mV AC (NOT DC!) volts when hub is spun by hand

Here is some information from service bulletins that could be related to the problem. The traction control, antilock brakes, and tire inflation monitor all use wheel speed sensor input.

This first bulletin seems like it could be the problem because engine movement is involved:

GM Corporate Bulletin 00-06-04-049B
This Bulletin covers a problem that can cause multiple failures, one of which is an Antilock brake problem, and covers 2000-2003 Impala and Monte Carlo built prior to 2/03.
Check to make sure the wiring harness adjacent to the AC accumulator/dryer is not rubbing against the ac accumulator chaffing through the insulation of the wires in the harness.

GM Corporate Bulletin 03-05-25-008 overview:
GM front wheel speed sensor harness replacement - 2001-2003 Buick Century, Regal; 2001-2003 Chevrolet Impala, Monte Carlo; 2001-2002 Oldsmobile Intrigue; 2001-2004 Pontiac Grand Prix
This bulletin is about inspecting the harness going to the front wheel speed sensor for wear from contact with front suspension parts.
Repair harnesses/leads are available that can be spiced onto the main harness.
2001-2003 impala & Monte Carlo – Right side - 10340313
2001-2003 impala & Monte Carlo – Left side - 10340314

SERVICE BRAKES, HYDRAULIC:ANTILOCK:ABS WARNING LIGHT
• TSB #030525008 -- INTERMITTENT/CONSTANT ANTI-LOCK BRAKING SYSTEM (ABS) MALFUNCTION INDICATOR LAMP (MIL) ILLUMINATED. *TT (NHTSA ID #10004719, OCTOBER 01 2003)

Hope helped.

The ABS and air bags work together on startup untill the lights go out, this is OK.
If the light stays on then you may want
to get checked out.

You have a bad sensor at one of the tires that need replacing that operates ABS and traction control. If you take it in to a shop it will run $130 but they can find which sensor is causing the problem. But if you do it you might have to replace all 4 sensors to make sure you got the right one. Every hard to diagnoses. Its better for the shop cause they can get electrical read outs for each sensor.