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Just because lights are working does not mean you have a good enough connection to operate the starter motor. Try turning on headlamps, then try to crank it with someone looking at headlamps. If they dim badly or go out, recheck the battery terminal connections. Did you grease the areas that should make the connections? What grease did you use? Try cleaning connections with brake cleaner, sand or wire brush and reconnect without grease. If this works, grease the outside only to seal connections and prevent corrosion.
Sounds like you are losing the power from the battery. Loose connection somewhere between the battery and the fuse box. The car is going into security mode (which prevents the car from starting). This happens when people change the car battery. Leaving the ignition key on for 10 minutes and the security light quits flashing. Car starts. I would be looking at the battery connections and other main power leads going the the relay center. Good luck.
Your description does not rule out a bad battery. Make sure the cable connections are clean and connected correctly. Assuming this is all good check the voltage with a DC volt meter. A fully charged battery should test 12.85 Volts. If it is very near 12 or lower it is a week battery. With jumper cables or other means to get good voltage try and start it again. If is start you have a bad or week battery. If you get it to run check the voltage again while it is running. The meter should now read 13.5 -14.0 volts. If not above 13 volts it is not charging properly causing the battery to run down.....................
1. Start solenoid stuck: remove minus battery cable. Remove starter. Remove solenoid and clean and lightly grease the slide.
2. Go to most Auto Parts Stores for a free test.
3. If the battery connections and Block Ground connections are not clean, make them clean.
4. Only clean the positive connection at the starter After removing the battery minus connection.
5. Use 150 grit sand paper to clean the small solenoid lead. If you must remove the small bolt be very sensitive of your applied pressure, these small bolts break and strip easily.
SAFETY: The last connection made is always the negative/minus battery connection for all starter related repairs. These wires will burn you if the battery is not safely disconnected and best when wrapped by a rag or paper towel.
Good Luck.
are you sure the alternator is good? because it could be tricky ...The only other thing is the wire running back to battery pack to charge battery maybe disconnected
unhook the battery completely and see if it will start after a couple of days. if it does you probably have a wire stripped and grounded out. all you need to do is install a power disconect key in the car, and you wont have any more problems.
hi again kids
i actually resolved this problem the long and silly way round??? because my alarm and immob are linked (separates but connectable) i believed that alarm unit was ok as still functioning, so marked and snipped immob wiring. wrong wrong wrong. i re joined each wire one by one to see if any thing changed with fault. it didnt have any effect, so back to wiring on alarm module, and after removing security screws, i emptied the water that had seeped into alarm wiring after washing car the week before, and a good hour drying out on raditor and it now works like a dream again, but i still have the problem of doors not locking automatically when alarm armed, though to be honest this fault started before the one i wrote to you about?
in essence im a big baffoon and have resealed alarm wire entry point as silicone had gone south a long time ago, allowing water to enter.
thanks anyway
regards
harrie the hose man
your immobilizer is activated disarm it.
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