Take a look at the fuel system. That is the fuel pump, filters and spark plugs.
Also go for a scan.
Cheers.
Please visithttp://www.wolfems.com/ for guide about the EFI management.
Good luck dear.
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Is your Check Engine Light/Service Engine Soon light on? If so diagnostic codes are stored in the vehicle's computer and can be retrieved using a scan tool that communicates with the computer in your car. These codes will point to the area in which the problem lay. Even if the light is not on a scan tool is used to monitor the sensor values of coolant temperature sensor, fuel trim figures, air flow into the engine ect.... Start with basic maintenance spark plugs, plug wires, air filter, fuel system cleaner in the fuel tank then look for vacuum leaks, after that it is most efficient to get someone to scan for codes pending codes and monitor the inputs of key sensor data.
Change the O2 Sensor
It will solve the problem!
I had a 1997 Nissan Sentra with the same problem. After you change the O2 sensor the engine light will go off and the car will run great.
Go for the direct fit over the universal sensor (much easier to install)
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/OXYGEN-SE...
The O2 sensor! Replace it and the car will run perfect again. When the o2 sensor is bad, the signal from the computer to the fuel injectors gets messed up and will cause it to run poor
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Yoyr EFI may be at fault. All MPFI cars can run without accelerating. That is to say that the rpm of the clod engine is kept high with the auto choke and that enables the car to move with cold engine. When the engine has warmed up to the desired level the auto choke goes off and the idling rpm of the car drops. The starting (cold) rpm of the engine may be lower than required, hence it stalls. But when the engine has warmed it runs smoothly.
The EFI can only be corrected with very sophisticated equipment. Let me tell you my story. I bought a car with MPFI. And was given only a wheel spanner as the tool kit. I asked the manufacturer and was told that yes that was the only toll they gave as we all have a habit of tinkering with the car's systems and they did ot want us to do that as the MPFI is a very expensive part of the car and they did not want us to play around with it. So, the answer to your problem is take it to a Toyota repair facility.
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Have throttle position sensor & air mass sensor check <---- no way check testing this unit at home unless a friend has a car which is close to the same year to swop the parts. if its not MAF or TPS it could be nurmious problems I can name, have the car plug in dianotics machine to narrow it down by a dealer, worth it than spending money on parts that dont need fixing and it can be very expensive guessing. once the dealer get the code they can actrually tells you what faulty, auto zone does it for free, give that a try and see if they can pull a code. If you have to replace air mass sensor, get it from the junk yard or ebay, this unit its very expensive to replace.
from reading all of peoples blog with many advices and you have check most of the parts and replace some parts, keep in mind all new car are control by computer management systems or ECU. your computer is the one making decision adjusting the fuel mixture from lean to rich assuming all the part are working correctly. my guess is leaning toward on the MAF sensor, and there is no way of testing the unit and you cant clean the unit because it seal unit and not serviceable. if your MAF is not reading properly/faulty the single will relay back to your computer telling it if it rich or lean due to malfunction MAF. junk yard has plenty of those MAF for little to nothing or ebay. i don't believe your injectors are bad although the car run fine when it warm up, MAP sensor rearly ever go bad and would have very effect, fuel pump has nothing to do with it because it run fine when driving, coil and plugs seem to be good. MAF is designed to measure the amount of volume of air entering the intake measure the correct amount of fuel and air to enter the combustion chamber. the computer knows exactly amount of fuel dispersing into the intake through the injectors, now the right amount of air flow must be equal and measure by the MAF sensor to match the correct amount sense and detected by the ECU from the sensor, if the MAF is faulty than your computer is reading incorrect amount air to the fuel mixture together; for that your computer want to adjust the timing and fuel to compensate allowing your engine to run correctly for that it run rough or stall. I hope that make sense to you.
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This sounds like your collant temp sensor. This sensor tells the computer that your engine is cold and to increase the fuel, much like a choke on an old carborated engine. You will find it located on or around the neck were the upper radiator hose joins the engine and can be changed without draining the radiator. Please let the engine cool first, and be ready to install the new one right away so as not to loose too much coolant when you remove the old one.
Per your description, I would be suspicious of the coolant temperature sensor. If the temperature sensor is telling the engine control module the coolant temp is warm when the engine is cold, the air/fuel ratio will be to lean for cold start and run. The engine will perform poorly until the engine reaches its normal temp.
Is the service engine soon light on? If so, have the codes read to determine the area of failure. Auto Zone or Advance Auto Parts will scan your vehicle free of charge.
If there is no service engine soon light on, a data scan would be helpful.
Let me know what you find if there are codes or you have had any work done on the car lately.
Regards,
I would not replace the O2 sensor yet until I verified the other possibilities that can cause the P0171.
There are several things that can cause this code to set. The DTC P0171 is set when fuel trim is driven rich beyond a certain value. Possible causes are:
1. Exhaust system leak.
2. Improper fuel pressure.
3. Fuel injector restricted.
4. Defective heated oxygen sensor No. 1.
5. Defective Manifold Absolute Pressure (MAP) sensor.
6. Defective Engine Coolant Temperature (ECT) sensor.
7. Vacuum leak.
8. MAF sensor out of calibration.
When the air fuel ratio feedback is stable after the engine is at operating temperature and the fuel trim has reached its limit of correction to the rich side. (2 trip logic).
Feedback from the HO 2 sensor influences short-term fuel trim and short-term fuel trim influences long trim fuel trim. Short-term values are temporary and not stored when the ignition key is turned off. Long-term values are stored in memory because they are part of the basic injection duration. Long term values affect injection duration in closed and open loop because they are used to calculate basic injection duration. It is important to remember that the actual fuel trim will be the opposite of the DTC. A system too lean, DTC P0171 will mean the ECM is making a + or rich correction.
read (and let me know)above data and Freeze Frame by using (example, generic) Scan Tool on # mode 2, etc.
Slowly accelerate the engine in the increments shown and record voltage,
grams/sec of MAF and SFT, LFT, Injection Pulse, Fuel Pressure, etc.
Changing the O2 sensor wouldn't hurt anything but may not take care of the problem.
Verify all the possible causes and let me know.
Regards,
Was the problem fixed or is your car still having problems. What was found if the car is fixed. The information would be helpful.
Thanks,
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Have you replace the battery lately? Please try to do the following before using the car:
1. Disconnect the battery and let it sit for 15 mins.
2. Hold your foot on the break for a minute.
3. Hook the battery back up and start the engine
If this takes care of you problem what you are doing is reset setting
your idle strategy. let me know if this works. Also see if there are
any codes in the comp. just go to your auto zone and they will check. it
for free.
Have a great day!
Yes, place your foot on the break after disconnecting the battery. Thank you!
I'm sorry, I did not read the last part.
ECM means the car is running to rich. you need a tune up could just be 1
thing. This things could cause it plugs, plug wires, cap, and rotor.
The other code dosent realy affect the way the car runs its a waste
gate valve control circuit. once you get some of the items i mentioned
replaced your car will run great.
Have a great day!
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Sounds like you may have a dirty fuel system, try having a professional fuel injector system cleaning preformed at a reputable repair shop with experience in this area, you will also want to have the intake plenum cleaned on ht engine as part of the overall fuel system service. Also check for any vacuum leaks and replace any bad vacuum hoses, your car is 8 years old it is well possible that vacuum hoses maybe cracking and in need of replacement. And if you have not preformed a general tune up in as many years it is time for replacing a spark plugs, cap & rotor, plug wires... Do this for general purposes as planned maintenance service...
Its possible the pistons in the block shrunk a little due to the cold weather. i recomend using amsoil. it is the best possible oil you can get and will help in cold weather. it will also help your gas mileage and you dont have to change it untill 12,000 miles i think.
On your vehicle's carb there is a choke pull which has the job of controlling the closed choke at start-up to the open choke at operating temperature. This may be the problem. The choke pull is attached to the choke blade and to test it a person attaches a hand held pump to test them. The pull should pull the the choke blade open just a little after start-up to keep the car running when it is colder out, and if yours is bad, it could cause exactly what you are writing about. Check this out.I hope this helps you.
NOTE: If this vehicle has automatic transmission and CFI ( central fuel injectors). Therefore, there is no choke and a computor regulates the fuel/air mixture as well as the idle speed. Since this stalling only happens in cold weather, would I be right if I concluded that the ECT (engine coolant temperature) sensor is sending a faulty signal to the computer that the engine is warm in cold weather, thereby, not increasing the gas in the fuel/air mixture when shifted into gear, causing the engine to stall.
P0171 Code is common in MAF equipped 8th gen Corollas 00-02. Just take out the MAF, get a cotton swap and some rubbing alcohol and clean up all the black gummy stuff off the wire sensor. It is a 2 minute job from start to finish.
Please rate the solution according to your satisfaction check my comment over the error code you get
Try the method i said and see whether you get rid of that error code
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thank you for your soultion. does this explain as well why my car hesitates when i push the gas pedal while its idling? I,ve looked up this problem and several people had come up with the MAF sensor being the culprit. But with your soultion how do i correct the EFI problem?
I have a 2001 toyota corolla and I just sent a question to 1 of these experts got a responce that made no sence what so ever!! my problem that I have with my car is that when the engine is cold and i go to put it in gear it starts to sputter and then stalls!! also the engine hesitates when i push the gas pedal down while the engine is idling can you please help me with this problem Thank you very much
To Mufphybanton the soultion you gave me does not help at all!!What I'm looking for is why my 2001 toyota corolla stalls when cold!! I've replaced the water temp sensor,cleaned the MAF sensor but with no results!!I have a p0171 code coming up when I have the car scanned system to lean!!What could be the possible cause for this and how do i fix it thankyou
To Mr. GolfDude I have already replaced the coolent temp sensor but it didn't make any differance!! What other soultions do you have for this problem? the code that I have is p0171 system to lean!! I need help with this please
thank you very much!!
Ok this is the last time I'm gonna explain this!! cause it seems like noone understands my question!!! I do have a code come up on my car and its a p0171 system to lean!!I've replaced the coolent temp sensor and cleaned the MAF sensor!! But this didn't solve anything! Also I'm wondering if the idle air control could be the problem or the front 02 sensor!! If u could please give me more detail as to what the soultion would be so i can get the right part to fix this problem
thankyou
Okay so you're saying to change the O2 Sensor in the front? Like I have stated I've already had my car scanned and it's coming up with a P0171 code. Yes my check engine light is on. This code says "system too lean". I've reviewed other sources and the majority of it give the answers of the MAF. But you're telling me to change the front O2 Sensor. Is there a way to test the MAF on a engine scanner? Or will I just have to buy a part and hope for the best?
I'm running out of options. And I could really use some sound advice.
As you know these sensors can get very costly and taken a stab in the dark as to picking a certain sensor and it's still not resolving the problem can be a costly mistake. If you had experience with this particular type of problem yourself and can give me a definate answer for changing the O2 sensor then I will take your advice and do something. But I would like it if you could give me a percentage of how well this will remedy my problem.
Please give me some hope and something to go on here.
To Mr. GM Elec! Thank you for your suggestion regarding my problem with my car!! The check engine is on and yes I had it scanned and it came back with a P0171 code. System to lean!! I have replaced the coolent temp sensor. with no results!! I have been suggested to replace the front 02 sensor. What would be your opinion on this suggestion?
To Mr. GM Elec thank you very much! this is quite helpful. Would this also explain the hesitation when I push the gas pedal while idling? seems like when I do this the engine almost wants to stall but if I gradually push the gas pedal it will accerate ok while idling. but not if I were to say go to rev the engine quickly!!
thank you for your suggestions
Ok so do I put my foot on the brake after I disconnect the battery? Also I did have it scanned and the code was a P0171 system to lean. Will this method still work with this type of code in the ECM?
To FireSnake I have a 2001 toyota corolla and no offence but if you claim to be an expert you would already know that a 2001 toyota corolla doesn't have plug wires!! It only has ignition coils which sit atop of the spark plugs!! I have replaced the plugs with platinum 4s plugs!! I have an engine code P0171 engine to lean!! I have been trying to get some sound advice from an " expert " To help me solve this problem. Please if you have any sound soulition as to what I can do to remedy this please feel free to tell me
thank you
Please if any one can give me sound advice it would be greatly appreciated! I have a 2001 toyota corolla with a engine light on and a code reading P0171 system to lean!! When the engine is cold it starts to sputter and then stall after i put it in gear! but if I let the engine warm up it rus ok! I've replaced the coolent temp sensor!! please help thank you
Its not the point of cold weather it happenens summer time as well!It just when the engine is first started and put in to gear it sputters and then stalls! but after it warms up it rus ok!I HAVE REPLACED the coolent sensor what else could be the problem?
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