Broken back axle:structural damage? I got hit by a drunk driver and point of impact was back panel/rear wheel. The wheel snapped off about a foot along the axle. Insurers are looking after it but I'm trying to figure what structural tests I should get to be happy with condition if the cars not a write-off. How can I be sure the insurers don't save money by putting me back into a car that isn't quite right?

first up jack up the vehicle and remove the damaged wheel
fit the spare tire and then place an indicator ( rod on a brick ) close to the rim of the spare and turn the wheel
if the axle of hub is bent you will see the rim get closer then further away from the indicator as you turn the wheel
if it is , replace the axle and bearings
if not there will be no axle damage but the bearing could be "brinnelled "( a bearing term where the balls or rollers have been imprinted into the race from impact) in which bearing failure will become evident in 10-20,000 miles
next step is to go and get a rear end wheel alignment done as there could be suspension damage that will cause handling and tire wear problems

what about it?

conventional axle or limited slip? Get axle code off door sticker.

SECTION 205-02: Rear Drive Axle/Differential - Ford 8.8-Inch Ring Gear 1998 Explorer/Mountaineer Workshop Manual
IN-VEHICLE REPAIR Rear Wheel Bearing and Axle Shaft Oil Seal -4.0L SOHC and 4.0L EI, Conventional
Special Tool(s) Axle Seal Replacer
T83T-1175-A Axle Wheel Bearing Puller
T83T-1225-A Axle Wheel Bearing Replacer
T83T-1225-B Driver Handle
T80T-4000-W Impact Slide Hammer
T50T-100-A
Removal

1. Remove the axle shaft; refer to Axle Shaft in this section.

Axle Shaft Removal

1. CAUTION: Do not use heat to loosen a seized lug nut. Heat can damage the wheel (1007) and the rear wheel bearings (1225).
   Loosen the lug nuts (1012).
   1. Remove the center cap.
   1. With the weight of the vehicle on the wheels, loosen the lug nuts.

1. Raise and support the vehicle.

1. Remove the wheel and tire assembly.
   1. Remove the lug nuts.
   1. Remove the wheel and tire assembly.

1. Remove the axle housing cover (4033).
   1. Loosen the axle housing cover bolts (4346) and drain the rear axle (4001).
   1. Remove the axle housing cover bolts.
   1. Remove the axle housing cover.

1. Remove the rear disc brake rotors (2C026); refer to Section 206-04 .

1. CAUTION: Once the differential pinion shaft (4211) has been removed, turning the differential case (4204) or an axle shaft (4234) will cause the differential pinion gears (4215) to fall out of the assembly. This could result in chipped or damaged components.
   Remove the differential pinion shaft.
   1. Remove the differential pinion shaft lock bolt.
   1. Remove the differential pinion shaft.

1. CAUTION: Do not damage the rubber O-rings in the U-washer grooves.
   Remove the U-washers (4N237).
   1. Push the axle shafts inboard.
   1. Remove the U-washers.

1. Reinstall the differential pinion shaft.
   1. Install the differential pinion shaft.
   1. Install the differential pinion shaft lock bolt finger-tight.

1. CAUTION: Do not damage the inner wheel bearing oil seal (1177).
   Remove the two axle shafts.

Installation

1. Lubricate the lip of the inner wheel bearing oil seal.
   • Use Premium Long-Life Grease XG-1-C or equivalent meeting Ford specification ESA-M1C75-B.

1. CAUTION: Once the differential pinion shaft has been removed, turning the differential case or an axle shaft will cause the differential pinion gears to fall out of the assembly. This could result in chipped or damaged components.
   Remove the differential pinion shaft.
   1. Remove the differential pinion shaft lock bolt.
   1. Remove the differential pinion shaft.

1. CAUTION: Do not damage the inner wheel bearing oil seal.
   Install the two axle shafts.

1. CAUTION: Do not damage the rubber O-rings in the U-washer grooves.
   Install the U-washers.
   1. Position the two U-washers on the button end of the axle shafts.
   1. Pull the axle shafts outward.

1. Install the differential pinion shaft.
   1. Align the hole in the differential pinion shaft with the differential pinion shaft lock bolt hole.
   1. Install the differential pinion shaft lock bolt.

1. Install the rear disc brake rotors; refer to Section 206-04 .

1. Install the axle housing cover and fill the rear axle housing (4010) with 2.4 liters (5.5 pints) of specified lubricant; refer to Axle Housing Cover in this section.

1. WARNING: Always remove any corrosion, dirt or foreign material that may be present on the mounting surfaces of the wheel or the surface of the wheel hub or rear disc brake rotor that contacts the wheel. Installing wheels without proper metal-to-metal contact at the wheel mounting surfaces can cause the lug nut to loosen and the wheel to come off while the vehicle is in motion, causing loss of control.
   Clean the wheel hub and mounting surfaces.

1. Install the tire and wheel assembly.
   1. Position the tire and wheel assembly.
   1. Install the lug nuts and lower the vehicle.
   1. Tighten the lug nuts.
   1. Install the center cap.

1. CAUTION: Never remove the axle shaft oil seal by itself. Always remove the rear wheel bearing and the axle shaft oil seal at the same time.
   NOTE: If the axle shaft oil seal is leaking, the axle housing vent may be plugged with debris.
   Use Impact Slide Hammer and Axle Wheel Bearing Puller to remove the rear wheel bearing and the axle shaft oil seal.

Installation

1. Lubricate the new rear wheel bearing.
   1. Use Thermally Stable Rear Axle Lubricant XY-80W90-QL or equivalent meeting Ford specification WSP-M2C197-A.

1. Use Axle Wheel Bearing Replacer with Driver Handle to install the rear wheel bearing.

1. Lubricate the lip of the new axle shaft oil seal.
   • Use Premium Long-Life Grease XG-1-C or equivalent meeting Ford specification ESA-M1C75-B.

1. Use Axle Seal Replacer with Driver Handle to install the axle shaft oil seal.

1. Install the axle shaft; refer to Axle Shaft in this section.

It sounds like you may have much more damage than just the tire. My guess is you have bent the axle, so I suggest not driving it, as you can have damaged structural integrity. Tow it.

You will need a lug wrench for the wheel, a jack, a jack stand, 14mm socket and ratchet for disconnecting the lower ball joint, a 32mm socket and impact wrench for the axle nut, a dead-blow (no-bounce) hammer to tap axle from steering knuckle, and then there are two options.

Left (driver) side: a pry bar to pop the axle from the differential (pry between diff. housing and axle knuckle. This can be really stuck so don't be afraid to put some power to it!)

Right (pass.) side: snap ring pliers to remove snap ring from carrier mount (rear engine mount houses this carrier bearing), and i think a 14mm socket or wrench to loosen the jam bolt that keeps the bearing outer race from spinning.

Good luck and be safe!!

Nick.

You probably have the 9 inch differential. If it is a rear wheel seal remove the tire and wheel assembly. Be sure to use a jack stand so you don't have the vehicle fall on you. Remove the 4 retaining bolts that hold the backing plate onto the housing. Pull the axle from the axle tube. It may be stubborn at removal. If it is the pinion seal remove the drive line. Remove the pinion nut that rests inside the yoke. Try to use an impact tool for easy removal. Once the nut is off the yoke willcome off. You may need a puller to help in removal. One the yoke is off remove the pinion shaft seal. Replace with a new seal. install the yoke and the washer and then the pinion nut. Re-torque the pinion nut to 150 foot pounds.

Chances are that if an impact did enough damage to loosen an axle then there is probably some other damage as well. Have you tried pushing the axle back into the transmission? If it comes out it's going to do some real damage to the car. The transmission will run out of oil and burn up your differential inside, then the shaft, which will still be connected to your wheel will beat and bash everything under the car until the cv joints tear apart. I wouldn't recommend it, it's not worth the risk.

Lifting

The following instructions must be carried out before raising the vehicle off the ground.

• Use a solid level ground surface.
• Apply hand brake.
• Select 'P' on automatic gearbox selector.

Note: If the propeller shafts are to be removed, reference must be made to the relevant operation. To avoid damage occurring to the under body components of the vehicle the following jacking procedures must be adhered to.

DO NOT POSITION JACKS OR AXLE STANDS UNDER THE FOLLOWING COMPONENTS:

• Body structure other than approved jacking points
• Bumpers
• Fuel lines
• Fuel tank
• Brake lines
• Front or rear suspension arms
• Transfer box
• Steering linkage
• Front or rear differential units
• Engine sump
• Automatic gearbox

NOTE: For certain repair operations, it may be necessary to support the engine under the sump. In this case, a block of hardwood or a rubber block should be positioned on the jack lifting cup to protect sump. Vehicle jack
The jack provided with the vehicle is only intended for use in an emergency, for changing a tyre. DO NOT use the jack for any other purpose. Refer to Owner's Handbook for vehicle jack location points and procedure. Never work under a vehicle supported solely by the vehicle jack.

Hydraulic jack
A hydraulic jack with a minimum 1500 kg, (3,300 lbs) load capacity must be used.

WARNING: Do not commence work on the underside of the vehicle until suitable axle stands have been placed in their correct position. Always chock the wheels when jacking. The handbrake may be ineffective when the wheels are off the ground. Raising and supporting the vehicle
To assist in raising the vehicle, jacking points are provided as shown in the following illustrations.

Raising the front of the vehicle
Apply handbrake, select 'P' on automatic gearbox selector and chock rear wheels.
Axle stand positions - front

Raise vehicle to enable axle stands to be positioned under, either, the front sub-frame, or the recommended customer jacking points.

CAUTION: Place a piece of hardwood or a rubber block between each axle stand and the jacking point to avoid damaging the body / component. If the propeller shafts are to be removed, select NEUTRAL in the main gearbox.
Carefully lower jack until vehicle sits securely on axle stands.

WARNING: Always support the vehicle on axle stands when using a jack.
Before commencing work on underside of vehicle re-check security of vehicle on stands.

Reverse procedure when removing vehicle from stands.

Raising the rear of the vehicle
Select 'P' on automatic gearbox selector and chock front wheels.

WARNING: Always chock the front wheels when jacking the rear of the vehicle.
Axle stand positions - rear

Raise rear of vehicle to enable axle stands to be positioned under the rear sub-frame. Alternatively, the axle stands may be positioned under, either, the recommended customer jacking points or the front mounting points of the rear sub-frame.

CAUTION: Place a piece of hardwood or a rubber block between each axle stand and the jacking point to avoid damaging the body / component. If any damage occurs to the washers on the front mounting points of the rear sub-frame, then the washers must be replaced. Carefully lower jack until vehicle sits securely on axle stands.

WARNING: Always support the vehicle on axle stands when using a jack. Before commencing work on underside of vehicle re-check security of vehicle on stands.

Reverse procedure when removing vehicle from stands.

Wheel-free lift
The following warning must be read before attempting to lift the vehicle.

WARNING: The vehicle cannot be supported safely in a wheel-free condition using the wheel-free facility of a four post ramp, and under no circumstances must this method be employedA wheel free condition may only be achieved on a four post ramp by raising each end of the vehicle and positioning axle stands beneath the recommended customer jacking points.

CAUTION: Place a piece of hardwood or a rubber block between each axle stand and the jacking point to avoid damaging any components. If the propeller shafts are to be removed, select NEUTRAL in the main gearbox. WARNING: The front and rear suspension lower arms must NOT be used as lifting / jacking points. Alternatively, support the vehicle on an approved two post lift with the arms of the lift beneath the recommended customer jacking points.

CAUTION: Place a piece of hardwood or a rubber block between the lifting equipment and the jacking points to avoid damaging any components. If the propeller shafts are to be removed, select NEUTRAL in the main gearbox.

Sometimes they can be on there really tight. If you don't have a good air-impact gun available, you can use an impact socket attached to a one piece breaker bar (no swivel or flex head ones...they will snap) with a five foot black pipe slipped over it for more leverage.

It's nearly impossible unless you have a good air compressor and a powerful 1/2" or larger drive impact gun.The reason is you have to remove the cv axle nut and axle out of the way before removing the bearing and hub.The axle nut requires a couple hundred foot pounds to remove.The procedure is:Jack vehicle safely off the ground,remove wheel and tire.Remove axle retaining nut.Remove balljoint nut and bolt,pry down on lower control arm,and disengage balljoint and lower arm from spindle.Now the axle can be released from the hub,but leave the other end of the axle in the trans,just set off to the side out of the way.At this point,there are two ways to change the bearing.The wheel bearing is a double roller,cartridge type with the hub containg the wheel studs,pressed into the bearing.Remove the entire spindle assembly from the suspension strut,OR leave the spindle attached to the strut,and remove the bearing and hub from the spindle.Some guys swear by taking the spindle to a press,and pressing the bearing assembly out with a bottle jack.I just use a bushing driver set,and ball peen hammer,and remove the hub from the bearing...then remove the snap ring retaing the bearing in the spindle,then drive the bearing out of the spindle with the hammer and drivers.There you have it.Reverse procedure for reassembly

The car as it is would not be safe, even if you find a temporary adjustment for the axle, that had probably been deformed or broken by the shock.
In your situation you need to have the car inspected by a qualified mechanic, and the axle eventually replaced.

Regards