How can I get the readiness monitor to reset?

Each vehicle has a different drive cycle, depending on the vehicle, normal driving usually resets the monitor and I know it includes, driving in town and highway, idling, A/C on, backing up ect. If the monitor doesn't reset after several days of driving get it hooked to a scanner and see what sensor is causing the failure.

Whenever power is completely removed from a vehicle (disconnect the battery), active trouble codes are erased and all system monitors are reset. This is primarily to prevent 'turning off' the check engine light just before emissions inspection. Most states require that all monitors (or a specific number of them) be in a 'ready' status.
For the monitors to 'pass' checks and attain a 'ready' status, specific conditions must be met, usually involving 'drive cycles'. Some system monitors will reset very quickly - one drive cycle or less. Some take longer - more drive cycles or other conditions (usually the evaporative emission cycle requires fuel be between 1/4 and 3/4 of a tank of fuel).
If your car recently had the battery disconnected or replaced, you may have to drive it a few more times to get all monitors into a 'ready' status. If the EGR (exhaust gas recirculation) monitor does not reset, check with a dealer or a good garage on what parameters must be met to reset this monitor.

It'll clear current codes and reset all the readiness monitors to NOT READY status
Readiness Monitors and Drive Cycles Explained Ricks Free Auto Repair...

you must not clear codes or unhook battery after doing what they call a drive cycle which resets monitors to a ready state. http://www.lhforums.net/forums/showthread.php?2755-OBD-II-and-your-Next-State-Inspection
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that usually means that someone either disconnected the battery or the computer was reset. You need to drive the vehicle for about at least 20 minutes at road speed so the computer can scan all modules.

You just need to be sure and have a good battery. As long as nothing is drawing it down killing it. maybe the battery is bad. You may need to drive a few days for the monitors to run. it needs to be driven so the engine gets hot and at highway speeds, long coasting, ect. The repair shop can drive it for you, but time is money. theres too many monitors to tell you how, but just driving it should reset them, unless its very few that wont reset, the shop can look up the criteria to have the monitors run and pass, and drive the vehicle in a way to run them.

if there is really no problem with all these things they should be able to clear out the lights when they go to do the inspection.

The following conditions must occur to complete a Trip and test all OBD II monitors and components including the Catalyst Efficiency Monitor:
-- The misfire, comprehensive component, and adaptive fuel monitors are checked continuously from engine warm-up and can complete any time.
-- The exhaust gas recirculation (EGR) monitor test requires a series of idles and accelerations.
-- The heated oxygen sensor (HO2S) monitor requires a steady speed drive for approximately 1 minute at 30 to 40 mph.
-- The catalyst efficiency monitor requires a steady speed drive for 1 minute and 20 seconds beyond the HO2S monitor test at 40 to 65 mph.
If you cut engine off before test are completed then you must wait for a 6 hour cool down before monitors will run again.

just 10 flashes means that the OBD readiness monitors have not all been set.. when the battery was disconnected it reset the monitor status to not ready..

take the pos cable off battery, wait 45 sec and reconnect