Was hooking positive terminal up after replacing voltage regulator sparked and now everything is dead,

For the 1972 VW Beetle, the ignition coil is typically connected to the positive terminal of the ignition switch, and the negative side of the coil is connected to the distributor. The distributor then sends the spark to each spark plug to ignite the fuel in the cylinders. The wires going to the ignition coil should be two different colors: one for the positive side and one for the negative side. The positive wire should be connected to the ignition switch, and the negative wire should be connected to the distributor. Regarding the voltage regulator, if you are not getting any current on one side of the prongs, it could be a sign of a faulty voltage regulator. However, it's also possible that there could be a wiring issue or a bad connection. One way to test the voltage regulator is to use a multimeter to check the voltage output from the regulator. You can also check the wiring and connections to make sure everything is secure and not damaged. It's worth noting that the generator and voltage regulator system in the VW Beetle is a bit different from modern alternator systems. If you are not familiar with working on vintage VWs, it may be helpful to consult with a mechanic or VW specialist who has experience with these types of systems.

It's difficult to tell what's going on from your question, your old battery appeared to have failed, so you replaced it? Did you check voltage while it was running? It should be more than 13 VDC, otherwise the battery will discharge, but it's not the fault of the battery, that would indicate a problem with the alternator and/or voltage regulator. There are 3 important voltage readings: running (13+), not running (12+) and while cranking (9+).

Are you saying that after replacing the battery everything is dead? I would check the battery cables and terminals, make sure the wire hasn't been stressed or compromised, and that the connectors are shiny-clean. (You can but a terminal cleaner, with wire brushes to clean the fittings both inside and out, for a few dollars.)

Also, it's uncommon, but there's no law that says a brand new battery can't be dead.

Check the battery terminals,and battery posts, they may need to be cleaned. Your local parts store sells a battery post and terminal cleaner brush. When disconnecting the battery besure not to cause any sparks and if you smoke put it out before starting any battery maintence. Take the negative terminal off first, clean but dont put it back on yet. take the positive terminal of and clean both the terminal and the battery post.. Have someone with a volt meter check the voltage in the battery, if it measures 12volts, if available, then install the positive terminal first, then the negative post last taking care not to create any sparks. Once that is done try to start the car. If it starts, you have fixed it. If not, then you will have to move on to the starter solenoid.on the left inner fender, the other end of the positive batery terminal cable hooks to it. Again take the negative battery terminal off and replace the solenoid. Pay close attention where the wires came off of. Once you have replaces the solenoid, hook the negative terminal back on to the battery. This should take care of the problem, If not then you have to take the starter off and take it to you local parts store and have it tested they will tell you if it is bad. That is the last thing in the starting circuit that will cause the clicking noise. I hope this information help you to sovle you problem.

the alternator is not charging
that can be from problem alternator , wiring ,fuse , voltage regulator, incorrectly adjusted alternator drive belt or dead battery
best have an accredited auto electrician check it out by bench testing the alternator and voltage regulator and load testing the battery
loose or dirty /corroded battery terminals will also be a part of the problem
if the voltage regulator is integrated with the ECM , you will need a replacement ECM
BUt get the proper diagnosis done first as that will save cash

Your alternator-mounted voltage regulator has failed. Luckily, your voltage regulator is
replaceable separately from the alternator (most voltage regulators are integral to the alternator,
and cannot be separately serviced).

Note: this works for 3.8L cobra alternators/voltage regulators only - in the 4.6L model, the
voltage regulator is an integral component of the alternator.

1999 Ford Mustang Cobra -3.8L engine

3.8L Engines

1. Disconnect the negative battery cable.

2. Remove 4 Torx® head screws holding the voltage regulator to the alternator rear housing. Remove the regulator, with the brush and terminal holder attached.

Fig. 1. The regulator and brush/terminal holder are mounted on the backside of the alternator




Fig. 2. The regulator and brush/terminal holder are secured by 4 Torx® head machine screws




Fig. 3. Hold the regulator while removing the screws to prevent the regulator from dropping out and damaging the brushes





3. Hold the regulator in one hand and pry off the cap covering the A terminal screw head with a small prybar.

4. Remove 2 Torx® head screws retaining the regulator to the brush holder. Separate the regulator from the brush holder.



Fig. 4. Slide the regulator out-the brushes will move out of the holder




Fig. 5. The brush and terminal holder can be separated from the regulator once it is removed from the alternator




=========================================================
To install:

1. Install the brush holder on the regulator with 2 retaining screws. Tighten the screws to 25-35 inch lbs. (2.8-4.0 Nm).

2. Install the cap on the head of the A terminal screw.

3. Depress the brushes into the holder and hold the brushes in position by inserting a standard size paper clip, or equivalent tool, through both the location hole in the regulator and through the holes in the brushes.

Fig. 6. When installing the regulator, press the brushes back into the housing




Fig. 7. Use a thin piece of soft material, like this plastic wire tie, to hold the brushes in position while replacing the regulator, or use a paper clip inserted in the hole





4. Install the regulator/brush holder assembly and remove the paper clip. Install the attaching screws and tighten to 20-30 inch lbs. (2.3-3.4 Nm).

5. Connect the negative battery cable.

sounds like you are on the right track. Hook the jumper cables up to the dead car first. The red cable should go to the jumper terminal as you mentioned and a good place to hook up the black cable is the bolts on the strut tower.

then with the other car running hook up the red lead to the cars positive battery cable and then the negative to a good ground. Let the two cars sit for about 5 to ten minutes to give the dead battery a chance to charge.

Once the dead car is started let it idle with the lights turned off for at least 45 minute to an hour or drive it for the same amount of time with the light on (I assume you will be driving in the dark) or if its day time drive it for 30 to 40 minutes with the lights off. This should be enough time for the alternator to charge the dead battery.

I’m happy to assist further over the phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/jeremy_d728a59f986299fa

feel around the alternator and make sure everything is plugged in tight and not lose

There seems to be a no charge state in this case. i recommend checking the charging system. use the procedure below to isolate this issue.

Wear protective eye wear and clothing and remove all jewelry when checking your battery and charging system. Jewelry is a good conductor of electricity and is not recommended. Most batteries wear out every 3 to 5 years and need to be replaced. Always replace your battery with an equal replacement battery to assure proper operation. Automotive batteries have a +positive terminal (red), - negative terminal (black). Electricity is stored in the battery and then supplied to the vehicle when the engine is not running. While the engine is running the vehicles alternator charges the battery for future use. (Note: never disconnect the battery while the engine is running. If the battery cable is disconnected from the battery a spark can be generated which can cause the battery to explode or a major electrical malfunction to occur.)

To check a battery surface voltage, remove the positive terminal protective cover. Connect the +positive side meter lead (red) to the positive side battery terminal. Connect the - negative (black) side meter lead to the negative battery terminal. With the vehicle not running and the car sitting over night the battery voltage should be between 12.5 and 12.8 volts.(You will need to use a voltmeter for this testing procedure)

The alternator is rotated by a drive belt driven by the vehicles engine while it is running. Electrical voltage and amperage are generated to recharge the battery and supply voltage to the electrical system of the car. The alternator is held in place with mounting bolts. There is a main electrical wire on the rear of the alternator that supplies voltage to a main voltage junction box. If your alternator is not charging properly, your battery will slowly drain down from operating all the electrical systems in your car and stop the car from running.(most non charge states will be the cause of a loose belt or a low tension rate, due to a mis-adjusted alternator. make sure you have enough tension in the belt for full rotation of the alt pulley)

Next, you will need to check the alternators output with the Amp meter.

Testing the amperage output of the alternator is good for measuring the amount (not the level) of voltage the alternator can produce. This test can be tricky because if the alternator is weak it can still show it as producing amperage. Which is good, but if the voltage is low, it will still allow the battery to go dead. To check the amperage output of an alternator an amp meter is needed. Once the meter is connected start the engine. Next turn on all electrical accessories and raise the engine idle to about 1200 RPM. The alternator should output the max amperage it was designed to produce. Example: a 90 amp alternator should output about 88 amps. Note: An alternator cannot sustain maximum output for long periods of time. If the alternator is forced to operate at maximum output it will overheat and fail. An alternator is designed to operate at max amperage output only for a reasonable amount of time.

((Connect the voltage meter lead the same way you would in a battery static voltage check, Start engine (do not drive) at engine idle the voltage should be between 13.6 to 14.3 volts. If not the alternator may need replacing.)))

Get a battery check first and have it charged. Then, switch off all lights, radio, ignition switch. Reconnect the charged battery negative ground first, then, the positive terminal. Find if there's a spark. if it does, then, you must check your electrical wiring since this is grounded. Do not connect the positive terminal. Clear the grounded connection first. If no spark, go ahead. Crank your engine, and let it run at neutral position. And check the voltage that goes out of the alternator, this must be more than 15 volts DC. Then check the voltage output of the regulator which must be 13
to 14 volts DC. However, if you cannot get the right voltage at the
alternator., you have to replace it. Then, you can check the regu-
lator output voltage, and get the right voltage. Get this done,. and
send your e-mail for the result.

find the fusable link and replace it