No Electricity Car battery is good. Cables are good. Starter will not turn over or click. No lights when you open the door. 0 electricity. Fuses are all good including the battery fuse. Is there a main fuse that controlls everything? I do not have a book for this car so I have no idea if all the fuses are located in the fuse boxes or if there is a main inline fuse somewhere.

THE POST MAKES NO SENSE.
IS A FUSE BLOWN , NOT TOLD ITS NAME OR NUMBER.? WHY?
"PUT IN A NEW ONE" WHAT? , TELL WHAT "ONE" MEANS.?
BATTERY NOT DEAD ,CHARGE IT? IF WEAK OR DEAD.

BATTERY CABLES NOT 4 LUGS LOOSE OR RUSTY.
TEST1
JUMPER CABLE YOUR CARS BATTERY TO OTHER DONOR CAR.
NOT BACKWARDS PLUS > TO PLUS/ AND LAST MINUS > TO mINUS
HERE ARE THE 6 DEAD STARTER TESTS AND POINTS OF FAILURE
FUSES BLOW
BATTERY DEAD
KEY SWITCH BAD OR IMMO NOT HAPPY
PRNDL SWITCH BAD, SHIFT TO NEUTRAL AND CRANK IT HERE.
STARTER RELAY BAD.
STARTER MOTOR IS BAD. HOT WIRE IT ON CAR, KEYS IN POCKET FOR GOOD CRANKING FAST.
A VOLTMETER FINDS ALL THIS EASY ,HAVE ONE/?
A 2 MAN TEST ONE CRANKS THE MEASURES USING METER.

Clicking when you try and start means either that there is not enough electricity getting through to the starter or the starter is defective,
If the battery is charged and you're getting nothing on the dash as well, that means that something in the connection from the battery to the rest of the car is not conducting the electricity. Check your battery terminals for corrosion and the battery wires for damage, Check your fuse panel for blown fuses. Ask the shop that replaced your starter,

my be the alternator - mine went out and all the gauges and stuff quit working had to have it jumped twice to get it back to parts store so I could change alternator - may want to have that checked!!

Not enough information.
Is the car completely dead electrically, or does it do things like:
-interior lights operate when door is open
-dash lights operate when key is turned to 'run'
-starter turns when key is turned to 'start'
If you have no electrical power to anything, I would definitely start checking under the hood first. A voltmeter is the tool that will help you the most here.
-Battery terminals tight, battery not dead, cables (both power and ground) carry current where it belongs (zero ohms). Tight electrical connections everywhere.
- The underhood fuse panel contains nearly all the fuses, fusible links, and relays needed for your engine to run. Checking with a voltmeter is quicker than pulling and visually inspecting components.

Electrical testing on the starter circuit should be done befor replacing parts . Engine ground circuit (cable) . The Trainer 47 What measuring voltage on the ground side means

Starter Voltage Drop

How to voltage drop test starter motor circuit

I would go with the corroded cables. You would have power to everything even with the alternator out of the truck.

You would need to use a meter or test light to find out what exactly is dead. It could be a short in the fuse box, or a bad connection in the harness, or at the battery or starter.
You may need a repair book or shop manual to get the wiring diagrams.
If nothing on the truck works, you would start at the battery cables and work back to the key switch.

The first thing I'd check would be the starter solenoid. I'm not familiar with the location on that particular model, but it'll look like this:



There will be a positive lead running from the battery to the starter solenoid.

Solenoids are usually fairly cheap (<$20), and because they die eventually in older vehicles it can be handy to have a replacement on-hand. As a result, buying one as a first step to diagnosing an electrical non-start issue really has no downside. If it fixes the problem, you know the cause. If it doesn't, you have a small, cheap replacement part you're almost guaranteed to need at some point in the future.

If, however, it is not the starter solenoid, you likely have (in order of ease of fixing) a locked-up starter (hit it hard with a hammer and attempt to start the vehicle again), a bad starter, or significant corrosion in the electrical leads running between your starter and the battery and/or solenoid.

The next step would be to remove the starter and take it to an auto parts store for testing. In the event it tests good, you'll want to test the resistance of the battery cables. Frequently there will be signs of corrosion somewhere along them in the form of bulging or split insulation and accumulations of white powder around and between the strands of copper inside the cable. Unfortunately, external signs of corrosion are not always present even in cases where significant corrosion resistance has built up in one or more electrical cables.

Have you looked for the main fuse? It usually looks like a big fuse with a glass door. It may be loose.

you sure the battery is truly good right / ...then you may have a bad cable or simply corroded enough to cause this also there is a fuse at the negative open it and see if it is in fact god otherwise its either battery cables or possibly the starter itself possible even the key switch and you checked the crank fuses in the fuse box and all are good . try using a test light with the key on and see if any juice is at both ends of each fuse ...clean the cables and starter cable connections