Torque for frong spindle nut on 2009 f150 fx4, small nut in center of rotor

1995 C1500 spindle nut torque procedure? - CK5 Network

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Jan 31, 2005 - while rotating the hub in a foward direction torque the nut to about 12ft lbs. Keep doing that a few times to ensure the bearings are seated.

96 gmc: torque..the front spindle nut..C1500 - JustAnswer

https://www.justanswer.com > Car Questions > GM Repair
Sept 16, 2011 - Torque nut (12) 10-12 ft lbs while turning the wheel assembly forward by hand. This will seat the bearing. Loosen nut (12) to a just loose ...
1 answer · Top answer: You can attach the magnetic base to the end of the spindle or to the brake caliper bracket. ...

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  1996 chevy: the torque setting for front wheel bearing..1500 4x4

  https://www.justanswer.com > chevy > 1tv6x-1996-che...
  Feb 18, 2009 - Outer Tie Rod Nut (C and K Models) · Shackle to Frame Nut and Bolt (C3500HD) · Shock Absorber Nuts (K Models) ; 62 N·m · 95 N·m · 90 N·m ; 46 lb ft.

Torque specification guide - PDF4PRO

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PDF
Front and rear axle nut torque specifications for FWD, RWD and 4 W/D vehicles. Torque specification guide. Form #457377. April, 2007.

Johny brown is wrong.... the 2005 ford f150 2wd requires a rotor/bearing assembly it is really really easy to change...... jack it up remove wheel, 18 mm wrench to remove caliper mount... then remove spindle cotterpin and nylon nut (26mm? ) with any luck the rotor/bearing /hub will pull right off ...if not a make shift lever/puller should do the trick.... I actually had a bearing frozen on the spindle that i used heat and a small 3 jaw puller to get the bearing free.... if everything goes smoothly you should be done in less then 30 min

The axle nut torque is:
296 ft-lbs for 2WD
and
20 ft-lbs for 4WD

Make sure you use the correct torque for your application!

The way I've always done is thread the spindle nut on the spindle with the rotor off. If you push the rotor back on the nut will push the outer bearing out. Tilt the rotor back and pull it off quickly and it should remove the inner bearing and seal.

U DON'T TOQUE A SPINDLE NUT!!! JUST TIGHTEN WITH PLIERS AND INSTALL COTTER PIN.

u DON'T torque this!! tighten the nut while spinng the rotor, then back off untiol it is free, then tighten it down until it seats tight, then turn another 1/8" tighter, that is it, any tighter u burn up the the wheel bearings

I am assuming it is a two wheel drive unit. Remove the wheel. Remove the caliper assembly from the axle and support it so it soes not just hang from the brake line. Pull the dust cap off from the center of the axle end. Remove the cotter key fron the nut. Remove the nut. Gently pull the rotor assembly from the axle spindle. Remove the seal on the inside of the rotor assembly. Lift the inner bearing out of the race. Use a drift pin to remove the race from the hub. Be careful not to score the inside of the hub where the race mounts. Do the same process for the outer bearing. Replace the race and make sure it is fully seated. Grease the new bearings. Replace the inner wheel seal with a new one. Slide the hub back onto the spindle. Place the flat washer on the spindle with the nut and seat the bearings to about 20 pounds torque and back off about 1/8 turn and snug again and replace the kotter key with a new one,. Replace the dust cap back onto the hub and your done.

With Automatic Locking Hubs

1. Raise the vehicle and install safety stands.
2. Remove the wheel lugnuts and the wheel and tire assembly.
3. Remove the retainer washers from the lugnut studs. Remove the automatic locking hub assembly from the spindle.
4. Remove the snap ring from the end of the spindle shaft.
5. Remove the axle shaft spacer
6. Being careful not to damage the plastic moving cam or thrust spacers, pull cam assembly off the wheel bearing adjusting nut and remove the two plastic thrust spacers from the adjusting nut. CAUTION: Do not pry on the plastic cam or thrust spacers during removal. Prying may damage the cam or spacers.
7. Using a magnet, remove the locking key. NOTE: If required, rotate the adjusting nut slightly to relieve pressure against the locking key, before the key can be removed. CAUTION: To prevent damage to the spindle threads, look into the spindle keyway under the adjusting nut and remove the separate locking key before removing the adjusting nut.
8. Loosen the wheel bearing adjusting nut from the spindle using a 2-3/8 inch Hex Locknut Wrench T70T-4252-B or equivalent.
9. While rotating the hub and rotor assembly, tighten the wheel bearing adjusting nut to 47 Nm (35 ft lb) to seat the bearings. Spin the rotor and back off the nut one-quarter turn (90 degrees).
10. Retighten the adjusting nut to 1.8 Nm (16 in lb) using a torque wrench.
11. Align the closest lug in the wheel bearing adjusting nut with the center of the spindle keyway slot. Advance the nut to the next lug if required. Install the separate locking key in the spindle keyway under the adjusting nut. WARNING: Extreme care must be taken when aligning the spindle nut adjustment lug with the center of the spindle keyway slot to prevent damage to the separate locking key. The wheel and tire assembly may come off while the vehicle is in motion if the key is damaged.
12. Install the two thrust spacers and push or press the cam assembly onto the locknut by lining up the key in the fixed cam with the spindle keyway. CAUTION: Extreme care must be taken when aligning the fixed cam key with the spindle keyway to prevent damage to the fixed cam.
13. Install the axle shaft spacer.
14. Clip the snap ring onto the end of the spindle shaft.
15. Install the automatic locking hub assembly over the spindle by lining up the three hub assembly legs with three pockets in cam assembly. Install the retainer washers.
16. Install the wheel and tire assembly. Install and tighten lugnuts to 135 Nm (100 ft lb).
17. Make sure the final end play of the wheel on the spindle is 0.00-0.08 mm (0.000-0.003 inch). the maximum torque to rotate the hub is 2.8 Nm (25 in lb).
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should be 90 to 110 lbs torque