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Robert Gifford Posted on Aug 18, 2019

2008 Audi A6- EPC light and engine not cranking after stopping at Walmart.

I stopped at Walmart earlier (car drove fine there) with 2008 Audi A6 Quattro 3.2L and my car wouldn't start after I got back in it. The engine doesn't even crank, but all of my electronics still work (radio, headlights, dash lights, etc). The EPC light on the dash is also on. The battery light turns on when I press on the brake and switch to drive, neutral, or reverse. I tried jumping the care with no success.

1 Answer

damian Hunt

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  • Contributor 18 Answers
  • Posted on Aug 18, 2019
damian Hunt
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Joined: Sep 27, 2014
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More than likely the stater motor is knackered,but if it's a manual drive you should be able to push start,in second gear.

5 Related Answers

alicantecoli

Colin Stickland

  • 22516 Answers
  • Posted on Aug 16, 2009

SOURCE: !995 Audi a6 Quattro only cranks wont start.

dealer only ,factory immobiliser is cutting in, try the spare key and if it doesnt start call the breakdown truck to take it to dealer

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Bob Kovalak

  • 181 Answers
  • Posted on Jun 13, 2009

SOURCE: 98 volkswagan cabrio

Operation of the braking system and the engine are two (2) different issues. I'd suggest checking the level and condition of your engine oil to see if it's adequate or burnt. You may also need to check to see if you have experienced a failure of your timing belt. The condition of the timing belt deteriorates with age and mileage, and usually needs to be replaced at bout 90-110,000 miles. Failure of the timing belt can cause a major engine failure (which may or may not be repairable). The braking systen depends upon proper operation of the master cylinder which operates effectively only when the engine runs properly. You should check the fluid level in you resevoir on the master cylinder. The fluid should almost completely fill the resevoir and should be clear (although it may have a yellow tint). The braking system will not prevent the engine from starting, so it's best to start with the engine. Check condition of the battery. Any battery over 6 years old should likely be changed (but not until you know the engine hasn't been damaged). Jump the car from another vehicle or large battery charger. Listen to hear if the starter has engaged (a grinding sound). Then see if the engine cranks.

Tough to diagnose at a distance without knowing what maintenance has already been performed and how many miles are on the vehicle. If you are not mechanically inclined, this may be a good time to find a friend who is and/or a reputable mechanic.

Hope this helps.

Anonymous

  • 1 Answer
  • Posted on May 01, 2009

SOURCE: audi tt 180 quattro car wont start. EPC and E-M system lights on

I would suggest you check oil levels etc. Generally these cars suffer from the air mass meter / air sensor problems aswell as coil problems too. Did you ever get a solution to the problem?

Anonymous

  • 10 Answers
  • Posted on Jan 24, 2009

SOURCE: No Start No Crank

I am guessing here but I would check the installation of your new cylinder and the fusebox. It sounds like the key is turning to the running/accessory position but not switching all of the accesories on. The tumbler can get loose inside the steering column and not engage the start switch.
Background... I had the same problem with 1st generation Dakota. The old key tumbler had to be turned much further than normal to engage the ignition. I paid "5 star" Dodge service to replace the unit and now it works as long as you turn the key back to "running" position after it starts. After the Dodge dealer told me that my truck was too old for them to be familiar they offered to dig around for MORE MONEY. Your problem reminds me that they said something inside the column wears out and they may not be able to fix. I was not impressed, but it reminds me to ask a mechanic if he intends to finish the job for which I am paying him. Mechanics aren't happy about this but it saves me money.

Anonymous

  • 1586 Answers
  • Posted on Jan 18, 2009

SOURCE: Audi Quattro A6 will not go into drive

It's the brake pedal switch. There is a switch down on the pedal arm that closes when you press the pedal down, and sends a sensing voltage to the controller, telling it the brakes are applied. This allows the transmission lock to disengage so you can shift out of Park. When that switch fails, the lock won't disengage. You need to replace that switch and you'll be fixed.

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Do a three-part Seafoam treatment to see if it helps. You can buy Seafoam at a parts store or in the auto section of walmart. Get two cans.

Pour one entire can into the gas tank. This will clean the tank, lines, filter, injector pintles, etc.

With the other can, pour half into the oil, drive 60 miles or so, and change the oil and filter. This will remove oil sludge, varnishes, and deposits.

Remove the vacuum line from the vacuum pump on the back of the engine (or any other vacuum line into the engine), start the car, and with someone holding about 2000 RPM on the engine, allow the engine to **** up the last half can of Seafoam. It will stumble and run rough. Let it run for about 10 seconds after the Seafoam is sucked up. Then shut it down for 10-15 minutes so the Seafoam can go to work breaking down the carbon deposits in the engine's vacuum system. Then restart the car, let it idle for a couple minutes, then rev it several times to 4-5000 RPM. You should be seeing a LOT of smoke out the back of the car. Let it idle again and rev it up every couple minutes. Do this until you're not seeing much or any smoke. A little bit the next time you drive is fine - it'll finish burning off.

I've done this on many cars (most of them Audis) and it's made nice differences in smoothness, economy, and a little power even.

Also, make sure your other fluids are topped off, your air filter is clear and clean, the tires are inflated properly, and that you have no stored codes in the computer (stop at AutoZone and ask them to scan the ECU for codes - some latent codes won't trip a check-engine light but can alter the car's performance).
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