Abs light on in land rover

Hi,
In Td5 circles this problem is known as 'the 3 amigos' !
One of the causes is a faulty abs sensor, the abs sensors let the ecu know what 'speed' each wheel is doing and thus control the abs, hd & tc.
Check that the wires to each have not been damaged and that the plugs are firmly in as apart from 'off road' damage it is possible that something happened when the brakes were getting worked on.
Another cause can be the wheel bearings....
If there is nothing obvious then get it plugged in as said in previous answer and this will tell you which wheel is giving the problem.
Hope this helps,
Iain

I have spent way too much money trying to get the 3 amigos to go out...ABS light, TC light and downhill descent. I have decided to try and ID the wires that go to those particular dash lights and cut them. I am tired of this ****. Landrover told me three different things that may cause this issue and told me to start with the least expensive one first! Go to hell, Landrover. I will NEVER buy another Landrover product. Which wires can I cut?

The ABS modulator has issues. An unethical dealer will try to sell you a new $3000 modulator as a definitive fix, but the fault is the shuttle valves in the modulator. 2 repair kits have been developed by Land Rover. Make sure you get the most recent one. Approx $900,oo cost.

You do not need antilock brakes to stop your vehicle. you know you don't have a functional ABS when the brakes do not pump on there own.

Sounds like you need to have your entire braking system checked. get your land rover put on a computer and see what codes come up. most autozone stores will do this for free.

My Land Rover over heated, due to a cracked nipple on my pressure tank, and was leaking fluid and these lights all came on. Is it possible that the antifreeze got on the sensor and is causing the lights to come on?

As per previous answers, all of which raise relevant points with which I completely agree.
You do not immediately have to resort to fairly costly Landrover interrogation using TestBook software (there are alternative packages which many home mechies and whilst these cheaper software packages mostly do not have 100% functionality of the original Landrover software, they are quite capable of diagnosing and in many cases resetting fault codes)

A further check which you can make easily on the sensors, using nothing more than a decent quality multimeter, is to unplug the local connectors at each of the sensors, and take / compare their resistance readings, they should all be pretty much the same value.
Any significant deviation could narrow it down to an individual sensor.
Clean up the connector pins, give the plug / socket a good clean out using WD40 or similar to remove any moisture , try remeasuring its resistance and see if it has come back into the same ball park as the others.
While you've got the connectors apart, give all the pins the same clean up and moisture dispersant, the WD40 will help protect against future corrosion - the plugs are NOT watertight, and as they're located under the car beside each wheel, they inevitably are asking to be affected by water ingress
(On that point, don't be tempted to try to seal them up with epoxy / self amalgamating tape etc...it just isn't completely infallible at doing that and you are more likely to actually create a water trap for any minor water ingress within the connector where it can really get to work at promoting corrosion and stacking up problems...just accept that water gets in , but minimise the effect by ensuring that it has got a way out)
In addition, before getting up to your eyes in taking apart the Modulator, unplug its multipin cable connector and give it the same clean up as you did on the sensors.
(Located as per attached pic at end of answer, circled in Red)

Assuming that you did manage to narrow things down and correct any resistance errors, you still of course will need to have the fault codes reset, again, that's a job for the home mechie with his software to do, but at least you will have reduced your bill by having done this simple work yourself.

Hopefully what will happen is that things will reset ok (and do bear in mind that you will need to drive the disco for a short distance at say around 30 miles per hour for the ECU to be able to re-evaluate the fault conditions, which if the work you carried out has been successful, then the dreaded 3 amigos will go out, the reset having been implemented.

If not....well, it's all possible combinations as mentioned in other answers, expensive modulator overhaul / replacement, wheel bearings etc....and that's the reason why folks hate disco's and long to have their old Isuzu's back !

One other point that I would make is that in the UK, as part of the MOT vehicle test, up until September 2014, or thereabouts, the fact that the 3 Amigos were shining brightly, it did not constitute a test failure - it was only an advisory as it is true to say that the brakes will work without ABS.
However, since the change in the MOT testing regulations in 2014, it is now a Mandatory Failure of the test, so it's obviously important to ensure that there's no sign of the scourge of the 3 Amigos...unless you want to fall foul of the cops that is !