Nothing special but also replace the transmission-inner joint seal also and top up the transmission oil.
SOURCE: wrong reading on fuel gauge
Normally this problem is due to a bad sending unit. The sending unit is the actual device which transmits the level of fuel in the tank to your fuel gauge. The most common cause is a stuck float. The device works by means of a flotation device, often made of a petroleum resistant plastic encasing a foam or cork "float, " which is attached to a light weight metal arm. The arm moves as the float raises and lowers with the level of fuel. This arm connects to a switch which increases and decreases resistance in the circuit. If the arm is stuck or if the float is allowing fuel in it you will get an inaccurate reading. A "logged" float (one filled with fuel) usually reads below the level, whereas an arm which is sticking will read above the level. Now, if the gauge has been reading this way since the car was brand new, the other likely cause is that the needle may have been improperly placed on the gauge at the factory, or the windings in the gauge may be under or over wound causing the inaccurate reading. If you are mechanically inclined you may be able to replace the sending unit yourself. Keep in mind this can be a dangerous procedure for a first time mechanic as it may involve removing the fuel tank from the vehicle. Some vehicles offer access to the upper portion of the fuel tank via an opening located in the trunk under the trunk mat/carpet or under the back seat. If this is the case removal of the fuel tank is not normally necessary, but you will still be working with the fuel tank. If you are able to do this procedure in the vehicle, keep in mind you will first want to disconnect power to the fuel pump and sending unit. You can disconnect the negative battery cable, but I believe on an the kadette you will need to obtain a special cable from your local auto part supply to maintain power to the ECU or PCM to prevent damage to the computer or loss of programming. At the very least remove the fuel pump relay and disconnect any fuse/relay related to the dash gauges prior to beginning this operation. Also be sure to remove the fuse for any possible ignition source inside your vehicle, such as dome and courtesy lights. Keep cell phones away from the work area as well. If you use a "trouble light" be sure it is marked as safe for use near fuel fumes. Keep doors or windows of the vehicle open to allow vapors to escape so you don't suffer any ill effects and to further reduce ignition hazards. If you must remove the fuel tank, practice good safety. Do not be under the tank at any time. Be sure to remove it with very little fuel in it. Go slowly and be sure you don't break any wires or lines. It is a very involved process and may be best left to a certified mechanic or at least one who is very experienced. Keep me posted and let me know if this helps!
SOURCE: Technical tuning specifications for a 1997 Toyota Conquest 1300
Don't know about the 97, but I have a 99 escort, 00 corolla, 00 camry and 98 Suburban (though thats diesel so a diffrent animal altogether)... prior to that an 86 and 88 vw quantum and golf respectively... once electronic ignition became standard, there wasn't much "tuning left to do". Change the spark plugs, wires, cap an rotor, pcv valve, air filter, and fuel filter and I think you did a "tune up". With platihnum plugs an such you don't change the plugs often (like once every 5 years or so... depends on the plug, look in your manual). Get the Bosch warranteed wires from a place with lifetime warranty... remember where you bought them..., anything less will fail...
O2 sensors and catalytic converters can be a horror show. Aftermarket replacement catalytic converters cost a few dollars (about 1/3 of dealer cost) but they contain about 1/5th of the metals needed for catalytic conversion, so they fail in about 1 to 2 years... if you plan to keep the vehicle longer, plunk the money down, of you like replacing the things, get the aftermarkets, again a leftime warranty would be a neat trick, O2 sensors - sometimes you can get away with a 35$ universal from the discount shop, I did nonthe vw's, I did not on the toyotas....
SOURCE: 1979 chevy c 30
look at http://www.classicparts.com/Literature/departments/335/, they have a lot of material
SOURCE: i need a isuzu workshop manual
You can download here...:
www.manualesdemecanica.com
Look for the "Service Manuals Menu" at your left then pick the Isuzu tab....the second choice for download is the one you looking for
SOURCE: my toyota tazz (conquest) has a major oil leak. I
you need to replace your top gasket i had the same problem with my tazz the car decided to start over heating and used alot of water so take it away and have it fixed before your problem becomes bigger and i payed R1000 to have my car fixed properly
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