I have a 2004 GMC Envoy and I attempted to cross a creek in it and the water was deeper than I realized and as I pulled into the creek the engine stalled and I immediately tried to restart it but it would not even turn over. My first assumption was that maybe the water splashed up and got the alternator wet or something like that so I called for a rollback to come and pull me out. It took about an hour for the rollback to arrive and by the time it got there water had seeped into the floorboards approximately a foot deep. Parked it at my parents house and I let it set for about a week and had my parents neighbor who is a mechanic look at it. He said that there was no water in the oil or transmission so he tried to start it and told me that it acted like the battery was dead. Waited about 2 months and he went back over there with a battery booster and tried again and he said that all the lights come on like they are supposed to but still would not turn over. What do I need to do to get this vehicle running again?
There is no set menu to recommissioning a "flooded" vehicle - in short, it needs checking over and whatever is found needing attention should receive the attention. When checking and making the list, every aspect of the vehicle should be considered from the headlamps to the tail lights.
We once recovered a flood damaged car and water had got in almost everywhere - even inside the engine management computer. It took a deal of time to remove all those electrical bits and pieces, dismantle them as far as possible and leave them to dry for a couple of weeks and then put it all back together again but not only did the car start and run again, no new parts were needed.
That was in the old days of analogue systems. Your car is probably fully computerised and employing digital electronics throughout which is an added complication - think what happens when your mobile phone gets wet. Digital electronics are more sensitive and more likely to self destruct if powered up while wet. It is very difficult to carry out tests on digital electronic components and systems without specialist knowledge and gear.
Putting all that aside for a while, I suggest you begin by removing, dismantling and servicing the starter motor and testing it before refitting and then ensuring the engine cranks by manually energising the starter solenoid. If that stage is ok but engine won't crank with the key you can assume there are electronic problems and begin testing; starting with the immobiliser.
The starter is an electric motor and they don't like being under water, replace the starter, spray penetrating oil on the parking brake cables. as soon as you get it started take it for a cruise and ride the brakes a little to heat them up and boil off the water so the springs and brake pads don't get all grungy. I hope this helps. Take care.
SOURCE: ticking noise coming from my 2004 envoy
like ticking while idling try unplugging eletric fan clutch harness to see if it goes away if it does replace fan clutch and its called a viscuss clutch fan.
SOURCE: My 2004, GMC Envoy would not start!
loose battery connection, or you left your lights or something else on then you got your jump. on the drive home the battery had a chance to charge enough to start up 10 hours later.
SOURCE: 1999 bmw 528i replaced battery and alternator
Replace your battery when its being tested there not testing it under a heavy enough load. A battery could have a dead cell in it and still show good on the charger. I've had that problem a few times.
SOURCE: 325i BMW, 2003 (Automatic) Fuel Pump/Filter or
your camshaft position sensor may be going bad. usually with an old car it tend to go bad. The top of sensor can be covered or gumed up with grease, oil, dirt and cause it not to detect the flywheel turning. Camshaft sensor send single to your DME to deliver fuel and sparks to you engine. If camshaft sensor goes bad it will seem like your fuel pump and ignition coil is bad even-though they are good. Faulty camshaft sensor may caused you to have this issue and problems such as sometime it run good and all of sudden it shut off, sometime its start good and others time is doesn't start. Once the sensor goes bad, the car will not run. There are two Sensor one for the fuel and one for the sparks, I would replace both sensor because soon or later if it will go bad, it will leave you stranded although if you replace one you might as well replace the other. Check the coil and test using the light or volts tester to see you getting power to the coil, next check if your fuel pump is working, fuel pump will not stay running unless the sensor sense the flywheel is turning from your camshaft sensor. next time when your car does not start, check if you getting spark and fuel. Both sensor will cost you around 130 bucks. assuming your DME, fuel pump, coil, wires, etc... is working. keep me update and I will try to walk you through. btw stop by at any auto part store and pick yourself up Haynes auto repair book for your car, its a great tools and investment to have for your next repair work if you plan to keep your car and get to know the heart of it. good luck and i hope that help some.
SOURCE: bmw 325i 2003 stall
Sounds like you have a small bit of dirt or grit in the fuel system when accelerating it is drawn with enough force to cut off the fuel supply then is released when engine at Idle.
1 run liquid fuel line/injector cleaner in 1 tank
2 check fuel lines for debris
3 change fuel filters
4 have fuel tank flushed
here is trouble shooting order less expense to greater.
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