The key will not come out of the switch when you turn the switch off?? the key will not come out at 13.5 volts it has to set a long time to come out

You need a volt meter the problem is some ware between the battery and the ignition switch .Check battery grounds all if bat is grounded you should have 6.5 v D.C from B+ to anything on the engine or frame one at a time then test both for 13 v at the same time jump them together .This could be your problem 2 battery's with 1 bad ground .Then start from the other end the ignition switch use jumper leads hook to the switch in start position key turned to black to ground see what you have for voltage drop it should be around 12 volts if you have nothing its the ignition switch if you have less then 12 v its likely a bad ground from one of the battery's or something related to the drive motor

You can jump starter relay to see if starter will crank the engine. Pull the starter relay, use jumper wire between terminals 30 and 87, terminal 30 is hot all the time and there is a fuse, the starter motor should crank the engine. If you try that make sure tranny is in park or neutral and parking brake is set. Two voltage circuits at starter motor, one is hot all the time. The other goes hot when relay is energized. The starter motor grounds through engine block. Battery positive and negative connections are important.

Hi there:DTC P1447 - Diagnostic Module Tank Leakage (DM-TL) Pump Too High During Switching.

I suspect the main problem is the alternator. When the alternator is failing it can be intermittent (ok some times and then stops). The battery on a vehicle is there to turn the starter and as a buffer for the engines electrical system. When the alternator stops charging with the engine running the overall voltage of the electrical system cannot be handled by the battery and systems will start to shut down like the radio and wipers until the vehicle stalls. Then in some cases you can still restart, the alternator kicks back in and everything looks normal.If you are familiar with checking voltages, to check this with a volt meter, you would want to see 13 volts to 14.5 with the engine running (alternator charging). If you see less than 13 volts the alternator is not charging. If you want to make sure you can have the faults read at the dealer and they should see undervoltage faults that have set when the alternator had stopped charging. Also, to check yourself, when the problem is occuring you can use a volt meter to check the voltage at the jump terminal to see what the output of the alternator is. This would even set the ****** malfunction due to an undervoltage and the system would go into failsafe.

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Check your battery voltage it should be 12 volts then start it and check the voltage coming out of the alternator it should be 13-14.9 volts.If the voltage coming out of the alternator is less than 13 volts replace the alternator.If the alternators voltage is within 13-14.9 then its time to replace the battery.

My friend, the battery is on all of the time. You don't turn it on and off. If the car fails to start, it could be a problem with a safety interlock system, a failed start solenoid or a weak battery. I am leaning toward a failed start solenoid in your 14 year old car. There is a safety switch on the clutch if manual shift, on the gear selector if automatic and possibly other places as well.

With a volt meter, place the red probe on the starter side of the solenoid (the cable opposite the battery side) and the black probe on ground. Of course you will set your meter to DC at some voltage higher than 12 volts. Have someone turn the key and try to start the car. If you get a reading of 12 volts, I would suspect the starter. If there is no reading, I would suspect the solenoid. While you have the volt meter out, check the voltage of the battery. It should be at least 11 Volts and maybe as high as 13 with the engine not running. With the engine running, expect to see as high as 15 1/2 volts.

13 volts is fine you may need to set the idle up a little bit and make sure the belt is tight the idle ajuster is on the throtle possion sencer you will see a little screw turn it in a little at a time

START BY CLEANING THE BATTERY TERMINALS. NEG CABLE OFF FIRST THEN POSITIVE. CLEAN CABLES & TERMINALS PUT CABLES BACK ON & TIGHTEN POS. FIRST, NEGATIVE ON LAST & TIGHTEN. IF THAT DOESN'T DO IT. LOCATE STARTER RELAY ON FENDERWELL. TURN KEY TO START. MEASURE VOLTAGE AT STARTER RELAY. IT SHOULD READ NEAR 12 VOLTS. IF NOT CHECK NEUTRAL SAFETY SWITCH. THE STARTER MAY BE STUCK OR WORN AS A LAST RESORT HOLD IGNITION SWITCH IN START POSITION, AT THE SAME TIME TAP ON METAL PART OF STARTER WITH MEDIUM SIZE HAMMER. IF STARTER GOES AFTER HAMMER TEST, REPAIR OR REPLACE STARTER.

TRY REPROGRAM KEY .PUT KEY IN IGNITION SWITCH TURN IGNITION SWITCH ON POSITION 20 SECONDS DONT START ENGINE WAIT 20 SECONDS TURN OFF SWITCH THEN TURN SWITCH BACK ON 20 SECONDS WATCH THE THEFT SECURITY LIGHT BLINKING.WHEN THEFT STOP BLINKING VECHICLE WILL CRANK.IF LIGHT STILL BLINKING.TRY FEW MORE TIMES KEY IN SWITCH ON POSITION FOR 20 SECONDS.MAKE SURE YOU HAVE THE CORRECT CAR KEYS IN SWITCH IF NOT WRONG SET OF CAR KEYS WILL SET OFF THEFT SECURITY SYSTEM.IF KEY RESETTING TRICK DONT WORK.CHECK BATTERY POWER MAKE SURE YOUR BATTERY HAS 12.5 VOLTS AND CHECK SECURITY THEFT FUSE.IF ALL LOOKS GOOD YOUR SECURITY HAS TO BE CHECKED OUT AT THE DEALERSHIP.

Adjust the ignition switch on the column underneth