Not starting at all

What have you replaced recently? One man in UK replaced a relay unit in the igniton wiring with one that fit and worked perfectly for 11 minutes and 46 seconds exactly, then all power in the engine was lost. Turn the key to off, turn on, start engine, perfect for another 11 minutes and 46 seconds, ad infinitum.he drove 1100 miles including motorways with this fault, on, off, on, off....
At home he found that the relay that fitted perfectly was the type of relay for the rear window Heater on a French brand of car..the one which turns off after 11 minutes and 46 seconds.
it's a long shot but did you?........
Please get back to us with the solution as it may help someone in the future.......

anything is possible when dealing with electronics
many modern cars have the voltage regulator as part of the ECM so when replacing an alternator , any touching or arcing or disconnecting the battery could cause a problem in the ECM
what you describe is the system is in limp mode and that is generated by either engine or transmission problems that activate when either or both are in a position to cost money to repair and are preventable
So yes , incorrect towing procedure could activate the limp mode from the TCM in the transmission
What your friend should be doing is running the fault codes to determine the reason that the limp mode was activated
if there are no codes , reset the system and run the vehicle around the block and then read the codes again
fix what is found
if it is damage from the tow operation send them the account as they are directly responsible for the damage from incorrect tow operation
as an after though here , in my country, such tow operations no longer exist as modern vehicles can no longer be towed in this manner because of the safety collapsible panels in the front and rear , so all vehicle recovery is done by tilt tray trucks Where you are and it should happen again to you or friends , always insist on a tilt tray truck operator

check u r alternator

It will not move in Reverse either? It could be

- the shift cable has broken
- the parking lock pawl has broken
- park/neutral position switch faulty
- transmission manual valve faulty

I think one of the first 3. There isn't much you can do except have it towed to a transmission shop.

Bad battery cable can cause these symptoms. Check under the cable covering(trim it back about 1/4 inch and see if the cable looks like copper or is white(corroded). If white it will probably have to be replaced.

This may be of some help:
this year model is known to have inaccurate fuel gauge readings at 1/4 tank or less
also parking on hills may require turning key all the way to run, then back off then to run-repeating this about 3-5 times to prime the fuel lines before starting.

Check the theft system or security system if active it will cause the car not to start. Refer to operators manual for normal operation.

The ignition relay is faulty.
Look into that.
Please accept this answer to remove the multiple occurances of this same question from the work queue.
Thanks!!

Sounds like you have a bad glow plug relay that could cause a power spike and drain your battery,it could also take away power to the fuel pump causing the loss of power.Hope this helps you out some!!

they set the timing WRONG and that is an interference motor so the valves hit the pistons