How do I tell the fluid level in hydraulic fluid container there are no visible lines to indicate the fill line for the '97 s500 mercedes

This is brake fluid? There will be a reservoir such as

http://www.2carpros.com/images/articles/brakes/master_cylinder/remove_brake_fluid.jpg

Note the big round vacuum booster behind it. You don't need that turkey baster thing he is using, just to check and top up. There will be a line on the side marked "Max", so just fill up to there from a container clearly marked "Brake Fluid". Nothing else is OK.

http://assets.blog.hemmings.com/wp-content/uploads//2013/12/Valvoline-Brake-Fluid_d.jpg

Engine or hydraulic system overheating Coolant system low on coolant in 6020, 6030, 6030 Premium, 7020, 7030 and
7030 Premium Series Tractors.

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Symptoms
After several hours of work, warning system indicates hot engine coolant or hot hydraulic oil.
Situation or Problem
Coolant level in reservoir is between the "MIN" and "MAX" range but engine or hydraulic system is overheating.
Summary
Air is entering cooling system, hindering coolant flow. Check coolant level. Fill to the "MAX" line on the coolant reservoir.
Bleeding Cooling System:
The bleed valve (see Operator's Manual for location) on the radiator must be closed when the tractor is operating. Open the valve when coolant is drained or filled. If the bleed valve is left open, coolant will internally bypass between the low temperature circuit and engine high temperature circuit causing overheating. When bleeding the system, open the bleed valve and run the engine with no load for 5 minutes at 1700 rpm. Then shut engine off for 5 to 10 minutes before closing the drain valve. Check the coolant level. If level is below the "MAX" fill line, repeat this procedure until coolant level stays at the "MAX" line.

Instructions:

1) The Hydraulic system should be bled to remove all the air whenever air enters the system. This occurs if the fluid level has been allowed to fall so low that air has been drawn into the clutch master cylinder. Under normal circumstances, air should not enter the system when the quick disconnect hydraulic line fittings have been disconnected. The procedure is very similar to bleeding a brake system, but depends mainly on gravity, rather than the pumping action of the pedal, for the bleeding effect.

2) Fill the master cylinder to the top with new brake fluid conforming to DOT 3 or DOT 4 specifications. Caution: Do not re-use any of the fluid coming from the system during the bleeding operation and don't use fluid from which has been inside an open container for an extended period of time.

3) Raise the vehicle and place it securely on jack stands or drive it securely up on ramps (whichever method you chose) to gain access to the bleeder valve, which is located on the top left side of the bellhousing (See Illustration 1-1 below). Try to keep the truck as level as possible. Caution: Don't forget to chock the rear wheels and set parking brake for extra safety...

4) Remove the dust cap which fits over the bleeder valve and push a length of clear plastic hose over the valve. Place the other end of the hose into a clear container.

5) Open the bleeder valve. Fluid will run from the clutch master cylinder, down the hydraulic line, into the release cylinder (the Slave Cylinder) and out through the clear plastic tube. Let the fluid run out until it is free of bubbles.
Note: Don't let the fluid level drop too low in the clutch master cylinder, or air will be drawn into the hydraulic line and the whole process will have to be started over.

6) Close the bleeder valve.

7) Open the bleeder valve and have an assistant slowly depress the clutch pedal allowing fluid to flow through the clear plastic hose. When the clutch pedal is almost to the floor, close the bleeder valve and have the assistant release the pedal.

8) Slowly press the pedal five times, waiting two (2) seconds each time the pedal is released. When releasing the pedal on this step, release it fast. This tends to help **** fluid down the stream and aid in faster bubble reduction.

9) Fill the fluid reservoir to the top.

10) The clutch should now be completely bled. If it isn't, (indicated by failure to disengage completely, and a soft or no pedal), repeat steps 5 through 9.

11) Continue this process until all air is evacuated from the system, indicated by a solid stream of fluid being ejected from the bleeder valve each time with no air bubbles in the hose or container.

12) Install the dust cap and lower the vehicle. Check carefully for proper operation before placing vehicle in normal service. Check the fluid level.

Note: If you can NOT get fluid out of the bleeder screw, then the internal check valve in your clutch master cylinder may be stuck, or you haven't bleed the system for at least 30 minutes. You will either have to use a different bleed technique, or replace the clutch master cylinder. Bleeding a Ranger clutch system takes time and patience. One small mistake / loss of patience / or shortcut, and you'll have to start all over.

Alternate Technique: (these provided by Dirk). Here is one way you can try that really worked great for him.

1) Disconnect the hose from the bottom of the fluid reservoir
2) Use a hand pump to manually force the fluid down the line.
3) Reconnect line to reservoir after process and fill fluid as needed.

Note: The reverse bleeding procedure will not work on all rangers. Some rangers' bleeder is nothing but a tapered hex bolt with a hole in it, no real way to get a good seal on it.

you have a clog somewhere. On the fuel pump there is a "sock" to prevent **** from being sucked into fuel lines/filter. This "sock" may be blocked. It may also be in the lines to the fuel filter or the filter itself. Hard to say without seeing. There is also TSB on this car for faulty fuel gauge reading more fuel than what is in ur tank. Heres the TSB:
2006 Mercedes Benz Cls500 Fuel System, Other Service Bulletin 260763 NHTSA: Action Number: 10016670 Service Bulletin Number: 260763

• Report Date:
  May 01, 2009
• Component:
  Fuel System, Other

Summary: Mercedes: the fuel level indicated in the instrument cluster does not match the actual fill level. This may be caused by a fault in the fuel level sensor function chain: hydraulic and electrical lines and their connections, rear sam or in

You can find all recalls at www.nhtsa.gov. I would contact Mercedes, it sounds like they may be at fault. Good luck

Section 06-06: Hydraulic Brake System 1992 Festiva Workshop Manual GENERAL SERVICE OPERATIONS Manual Bleeding

1. Read Hydraulic System Bleeding General Information.

1. Clean all dirt from the master cylinder filler cap.

1. Fill the master cylinder with the specified brake fluid. During the bleeding operation do not allow the master cylinder to run dry.
   

1. If the master cylinder is known or suspected to contain air it must be bled before the wheel cylinders or calipers. To bleed the master cylinder, loosen the front line fitting and have an assistant push the brake pedal slowly through its full travel. While the assistant holds the pedal, tighten the brake line fitting. After the line fitting is tightened, the assistant may release the brake pedal. Repeat this procedure on the rear brake line. Repeat the entire process several times to ensure all air has been removed from the master cylinder.
   

1. Remove the bleeder screw cap from the appropriate rear wheel cylinder.

1. Position a box end wrench on the bleeder fitting.

1. Attach a rubber hose to the bleeder fitting. The hose has to fit snugly around the bleeder fitting.
   

1. Submerge the free end of the hose in a container partially filled with brake fluid.

1. Loosen the bleeder fitting approximately three quarters of a turn.

1. Have an assistant push the brake pedal slowly through its full travel and hold it there.

1. Close the bleeder fitting.

1. Have the assistant release the brake pedal.

1. Repeat Steps 9 through 12 until air bubbles cease to appear at the submerged end of the bleeder hose.

1. When the fluid entering the bottle is completely free of bubbles, tighten the bleeder screw, remove the bleeder hose, and install the bleeder screw cap.

1. Repeat Steps 5 through 14 at the appropriate diagonal front caliper.

1. Check the master cylinder fluid level. If necessary fill it to the correct level with the specified brake fluid.
   

1. Check pedal feel. If the pedal remains spongy, repeat the bleeding process or, if necessary, refer to Diagnosis and Testing in Section 06-00.

Bleeding the Brake System
When any part of the hydraulic system has been disconnected for repair or
replacement, air may get into the lines and cause spongy pedal action (because
air can be compressed and brake fluid cannot). To correct this condition, it is
necessary to bleed the hydraulic system so to be sure all air is purged.

When bleeding the brake system, bleed one brake cylinder at a time, beginning
at the cylinder with the longest hydraulic line (farthest from the master
cylinder) first. ALWAYS Keep the master cylinder reservoir filled with brake
fluid during the bleeding operation. Never use brake fluid that has been drained
from the hydraulic system, no matter how clean it is.

The primary and secondary hydraulic brake systems are separate and are bled
independently. During the bleeding operation, do not allow the reservoir to run
dry. Keep the master cylinder reservoir filled with brake fluid.

1. Clean all dirt from around the master cylinder fill cap, remove the cap and
   fill the master cylinder with brake fluid until the level is within 1/4 I n.
   (6mm) of the top edge of the reservoir.
   
2. Clean the bleeder screws at all 4 wheels. The bleeder screws are located on
   the top of the brake calipers.
   
3. Attach a length of rubber hose over the bleeder screw and place the other
   end of the hose in a glass jar, submerged in brake fluid.
   
4. Starting at the right rear proceed in this order left front, left rear and
   right front.
   
5. Open the bleeder screw 1/2 - 3/4 turn. Have an assistant slowly depress the
   brake pedal.
   
6. Close the bleeder screw and tell your assistant to allow the brake pedal to
   return slowly. Continue this process to purge all air from the system.
   
7. When bubbles cease to appear at the end of the bleeder hose, close the
   bleeder screw and remove the hose.
   
8. Check the master cylinder fluid level and add fluid accordingly. Do this
   after bleeding each wheel.
   
9. Fill the master cylinder reservoir to the proper level.

problem is in the hydraulic clutch system
low fluid indicates a leak at the slave cylinder and not holding pressure indicates a leak at the slave cylinder or in the clutch master cylinder
If the master cylinder and slave cylinder have not been replace in side 5 years ago , the have them replace by a specialist brake and clutch shop
at this point there is nothing wrong with the clutch proper

Unless you observed the utmost in cleanliness when repairing the line and addling fluid, you may have gotten some junk in the tranny. The smallest impurity in transmission fluid can cause operational difficulties. If your lucky (and clean) you may have simply under or overfilled the trans. This can cause the shift points to change dramatically. Check the fluid level again. If you're not sure how to properly check the trans. fluid: park on a very level surface night before checking level, next morning depress parking brake and allow engine to run for 2-3 minutes before checking. Use a clean lint free rag to check level on the dipstick. If you are over full, drain some fluid off until you get it right, obviously if you are still low, add some more. Dextron-Mercon is a suitable trans. fluid for your car.

The rear windows are controlled by a timer in the top's ECU. If
the rear windows stop fully closing before your top is closed, the
problem MAY be with top's hydraulic system.

Check your top's hydraulic reserve tank for low fluid level. Lack
of fluid will greatly delay the top's closing sequence, leaving
those rear windows partially open.
Your top's hydraulic pump system is located beneath the right side
of the cubby/storage box behind the front seats. Raise the cover
and you'll see a removable trim panel on the right side. The pump
is behind that access panel.

You can use power steering fluid to top off the tank, but don't
fill it above level indicator line. You may have to add more fluid
after you cycle the top up and down to get the air bubbles out of
the lines.
It could also be a relay. On a 95 the relays that are in the trunk above the battery.
Perhaps, just switching the relays might prove which one is failing..

You need to fix the Leak in your hydraulic system to your clutch on your transmission. The reason that your transmission is not going  in to gear right is that the fluid is to low to push the throw out bearing to disengage the clutch fully. 
Once the fluid get's too low, you'll not be able to disengage the clutch to put it in to gear or change gear.
Check the fluid level to your hydraulic clutch reservoir and fill to the right level and fix the leak in the hydraulic lines.
Good luck and hope this helps. Keep me posted, glad to help.