Wd40 or crc spray down the inner part of the cable.(you should be able to spray it down the tube near where it pulls out.) let it sit a few mins and see if that frees it up.
Failing that it could be the actual choke sticking. Carby cleaner spray should free it up. To do this Remove the air filter and find where the choke cable goes. Disconnect it and see if the cable moves freely.if it doesnt its your cable.check there are now sharp benda , damage to cable or if its been squashed somewhere. If it does then there is a butterfly valve on the carby (closest to where the air cleaner was.that is your choke. Make sure it moves freely if its stiff give it a spray with the carby cleaner while moving it till it frees up. Re assemble and you should be good to go.
I will assume that "cold engine" means the physical temperature is below freezing
replacing cable as temp fix says somehow water or something that freezes is getting inside cable... I've never heard of this before.
if above freezing then you may have warped metal whose different temps react as a mechanical thermostat does.
perhaps the engine has a thermostat that needs replacement?
SOURCE: will not start when engine warm
Sounds more like your ignition module is getting hot and not working. I'd go there first before replacing the ECM. You can remove the ignition module and most NAPA stores have the ability to test them for you. Make sure they test it at least 5 times. This way it'll simulate starting and stopping.
SOURCE: 1984 Jaguar xj6 runs rough on cold start and fuel
Hello Drankin ;
The causes of this particular problem can be that of many . Is this car a daily driver or a garage queen ? I would attack this problem by ruling out the items with the lowest cost first . Please note that the info below are some of the steps I would take at tackling this problem .
a) Check that your oil filler cap is on tight and that the seal is good .
b) Check the electrical connections to be certain nothing is loose .or disconnected .
c)If the car has been sitting, run it for a while and try to empty the tank of that old gas . I would refiill it with new gas and fuel injector cleaner .
d) I would change the fuel fiter with a new one .You must do this with the engine depressurized and off with both filler caps open .
e) You could also check for air leaks at the intake manifold .
f) How is your exhaust ? Is it leaking ?Is it blocked at the ends ?
g) Check the the Butterflies on the Air-Flow-meter . Make sure that they open and close easily . There are spray on cleanes for this . Do not hone the openings .
h)Relace the charcoal cannister .
i) I would do a compressionon all 6 cylinders
j)Check the fuel pump for proper pressure or replace it .
k) At the emission's station check to see what is the idle mixure and you may need to have the idle mixure adjusted on the airlow meter .
L) Check/ Rule - Out the Auxillary air valve .
m) Check/ Rule - Out the Fuel Injectors .
n) Check/ Rule -Out the Coolant temperature Sensor
o) Check/ Rule - Out the Air Temperature Sensor
p) Check/ Rule - Out the Thermotime Switch
I hope that this has been helpful to you .
SOURCE: P0300 - (random misfire) only happens when the engine is cold
First start by making sure that the spark plugs are AC Delco plugs or other WILL trigger a P0300. If these are good, the next thing to check is the coolant temperature sensor(ECT). If this is problematic, it will cause too much fuel to be delivered and misfires to occur on all cylinders.
SOURCE: 2002 Jeep Liberty - 3.7 Liter - Engine has begun
I would start with cleaning the throttle bore and plate. Then clean the Idle Air Control valve, IAC, as this is the device that controls idle speed. Use a can of spray carb cleaner and an old toothbrush. Trouble with the IAC would make sense if you can keep the engine going by holding down the gas pedal a bit.
Use the carb cleaner to check for vacuum leaks at hose connections and elbows. run engine and spray short bursts at hoses and listen for idle speed changes.
And lastly if problem is still there check MAP sensor.
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