1992 olds 98 front brakes dragging, brakes were

stop and do not drive, get a brake man, in the loop, danger !


this is cause by the MC, the master cylinder, no ABS in 92
not replacing relic calipers in pairs is dumb, sorry risking life and limb using old 20 year old calipers is not bright. a fact, not opinion.
are both caliper locking, at ONCE?
that is the key question .
reasons. (answer for BOTH clipers locking at once)
1: bad calipers ,no piston lasts for 21 years, ever. (relic)
2: the MC piston is not retraced,

#2 is caused for 2 or 3 reasons,,,,
2a; brake pedal adjusted such that the factory play behind piston rod is not zero or minus, causing the MC to lock hydraulically.
2b; the booster was changed and the PP mechanic (weak) did not
RTM , they did not adjust the new booster, calibration ring stated in the FSM.
3: if one caliper (good) locks the rubber flex line is breaking down
inside and is clogged. 21 year old lines are not good to trust.
not life and limb or mine when you hit me...
that too, is fact.

the guide pins must be free, and antisieze lubed or with special
99cent OTC brake grease (very high temp rated,) ask.
the pistons rust. DOT3/4 is hygroscopic and will rust in 21 years.
not a guess. fact.
One other point, 21 year old caliper seals will no longer have
stiction, they fail to retract the piston and the pad drag. wasting fuel and pads. new seals. better, newly rebuilt Raybestos calipers
will make them safe.
fixing brakes in a serial fashion is asking for trouble.
do not cheap out on brakes.

The brake hose is clogged. When under pressure from applying breaks, the piston is forced tight to the rotor. When released the fluid will not return through the hose because there is no real pressure. Replace the hose.
murf427

More often then not, the calipers don't sieze up, the rubber brake hose locks pressure inside the caliper. Try pushing the caliper piston back in, then do the same with the bleeder open. If they go in hard with the bleeder closed, and easy with the bleeder open, replace the corresponding brake hose.

Hi, if this is a front caliper that is still on the rotor, I pry between the rotor and rear brake pad to push the piston in. I usually have to pull on the caliper a bit to get it retracted enough to get a screwdriver in between. If the caliper is already off the rotor, I leave the old inside pad on the piston and put a large c-clamp over the caliper to push on the pad and retract the piston. If this is a rear disk caliper or if you have any questions, please reply.

Put one of the old brake pads in front of the piston and use a c clamp to compress the piston.

About the only thing left is to replace the caliper. I've seen a few times, but not common. Piston gets bound on corrosion in caliper and doesn't retract completely.

Have you changed the brake hoses on the front going to the brake caliper?If not,this could be the problem,also,when bleeding,only pump the pedal one time upon releasing the bleeder screw,do not pump the pedal,start at the master cylinder,then the right rear,and the left rear,and the right front and left front in that order,adjust the rear brakes to where the brakes are dragging pretty good,but are not locking up,

As your car has a handbrake fitted to the rear calipers,you will need a piston wind in tool to retract the piston fully back into the caliper as when you adjust your handbrake the piston automatically winds itself to the required position for usage without this tool you are getting nowhere,so get hold of a tool to do the job and you should not have problem unless the piston has totally siezed on the screw then you will have a problem being the only way to repair would to be a new or refurbished caliper.

You may have a leak in the booster or master cylinder. You can put a pressure tester on the system to test for leaks. It does sound like you have an air leak.
You can try to bleed the master cylinder, then slave cylinder, then brake lines.

Hello.Find out what side is applying.You can check this by lifting the front of the vehicle,then having someone apply the brakes.When the pedal is released,both wheels should instantly release.If one wheel wont turn after the brakes are relesased,that is the problem side.If the caliper is not frozen,then it will probably be the rubber brake hose that connects the caliper to the steal brake line.