Check battery cables, make sure they are on tight and not corroded. Now, check all ground wires, especially inside the car, under carpet, and near firewall. Some cars, like my Buick, have some kind of prob with the grounds getting corroded and/or loose, then car will not stay running. Also, take the gas cap off when it happens, see if it starts quicker. See if it has fuel pressure when it happens, and spark at the plug wires. Narrow it down to the fuel system, ignition system, or whatever. Maybe the fuel sending relay.
You may have a bad or faulty relay that needs to be tested. There is a slight chance you may have another faulty sensor like temp sensor. Is your service engine light on? If so, I would have the codes read to pinpoint exact problem location. Also 02 sensors and other sensor that can be tested with ohmmeter. Crank sensor sends signal to module and coil packs that make your spark to plugs. Do you have spark to each cylinder?
Sounds like your coil is going bad. What you have discribed is exactly what they do when they are on their way out. What happens is as they get hot they will fail which turns the car off. When you let them cool for a while the car can then turn back on until it gets too hot again and then they will shut off completely. If I remember correct, the coil in your car is relatively easy to change. Let me know if you have any further questions but this should get you up and running again! Thanks for using FixYa!
Yep - sounds like a cold or cracked solder joint. Just enough time to heat up and disconnect from the board.
You may get it to react prematurely by tapping on it with a screwdriver handle.
Swap it out!
unless a diode has burned out in the ECM, there should not be a positive voltage on a ground terminal.
PLEASE SEE MY INITIAL ANSWER.....
"Yep - sounds like a cold or cracked solder joint. Just enough time to heat up and disconnect from the board.
You may get it to react prematurely by tapping on it with a screwdriver handle.
Swap it out!"
You were told on 8/23 to replace the PCM.
You are experiencing a cold/cracked solder on the board.
Replace the PCM to regain your sanity... and ACCEPT this answer to remove it from the work queue.
Thanks!!
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If the idle is not high or does not exceed 1,000rpms during warm or rpm drops too low after warm up then you may have the idle adjusted. You can do that by turning the idle control valve of the engine. Other than that you may want to check the vacuum hoses and the idle control valve checked if there are leaks or may need cleaning. If you have the EFI engine, if may use a scanner to check error codes from the engine to accurately detect problems if the computer detected one. Or have a working unit swap ECU with yours to check if the issue is not the ECU.
Have you changed the coil?
I have seen cars that die once the coil heats up and then start when it cools back down.
This is definately a fuel system related problem.
Check the fuel pump located in the fuel tank and the fuel filter located in the hood.
Check them for possible blockages.
Cheers.
Usually a fuel pump has a electronic relay controller to allow the pump relay engaged so the pump can be on. As aging it went bad giving a signal to stop a pump when warm during conducting current through.
This can be checked by removing the spark plug to check the wetness when engine turns off.
1- If it is dry then that is it.
2- If it is wet then keep cranking to check if there is sparking at this moment.
If it is no sparking then there is a problem with the ignition module: It gets cracked so when it gets hot, it is not working.
3- If your plugs are wet and have sparks at this particular time then have the engine pressure checked. Good luck.
Sounds like a bad ignition coil. Should cost you around $55-60 for the part and it's pretty simple to replace. Just follow the middle wire from the distributor cap and you'll find it easy. When the car stops running you'll probably find it to be pretty hot.
Interesting, have you opened the distributor after failure and attempted to start it to make sure that the rotor is turning normally? It's possible that it is getting bound up due to thermal expansion. If that looks good, check to see if you are getting spark to one or two of the plugs.
If that doesn't do it, then it's sounding like a fuel issue. Plenty of things that could make it run rough but if it doesn't run at all, it has to be fuel or spark. Try starting with ether after it stops running and see if that gets it to start. If it does then you definitely have a fuel problem, possibly the fuel pump relay. You could try hitting it with a can of freeze spray to see if the problem goes away temporarily.
I apologize if any of the above is repetitious, we don't get to see what other experts post so it's a common issue.
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I would start by searching out a vacuum leak. Easily accomplished by spraying WD-40 around the vacuum vulnerable areas. The intake base, the vacuum trees all lines connecting to vacuum servos etc.P.S. this is done while the engine is running, if you hear it start to stumble concentrate on that area until you pin point the problem. Let me know your thoughts, Thanks Dana.
I see everything in this list except a new fuel filter. If a filter has enough junk in it, it will allow the fuel through till it dams up, about 5 minutes running time. When you shut down the engine it all lays down again taking about 5 minutes. Then the car will start right up again till the same thing repeats itself.
You also have what is known in the trade as a stocking filter, it is located at the base of the in- tank fuel pump it too can cause the same reaction. try taking the fuel cap off and blowing back into the tank, after the filter of course. you should hear bubbles and feel not much resistance. You can check your filter by removing it and tapping it briskly on a piece of wood in the opposite direction of fuel flow. You'll probably see some interesting things come out. Be sure to replace a new one in the correct direction.
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we already did that and their is no vac leaks. we used the smoker and it is tight no leakes
are still their.
i thought if it dont have blood you can fix it.
please help me we are stuck with this issue
has new coil
is their anybody who can help me with this car it is blowing my mind
we did that and it has sparg and has a new fuel pump.
this customer is going crazy. you guys have never let me down so please hepl me figure this out. i am depending on you all.
crankshaft plug has 4 prongs on it/prong 1 has 0.00 voltage(great)/prong 2 has 12.34(great same as battery/pron 3 has 5.4(great)/prog 4 has 5.43(bad this should be at 0.00 i thing. i have the ecm out on the floor board still conected. what do you think. please help
no but when it does not start i checked for spark and still had spark in all plugs
help
code was 11(crankshaft sensor. so i changed the distri. and still have the problem.
could it be a bad computer. I have 26.1 resistance on a neg. that should be 0.00 at the ecm conection. please help me.
our could it be a bad ground wire
i took radio out that was horribly wired in and car ran fine all day but when i came out this morning car will not start. cranking but wont start. i am going to tap on the fuel tank and see if that works any other sugestions.
it is 40 degrees out side and it sat over night this is the first time i tried starting it to go to work.
sir please call me so I can explain this problem more in detail to you because this has me going crazy. 626-399-6535 cell THANK YOU.
ON MY 93 ALTIMA I CAN HOLD THE WIRES TIGHT NO THE PCM CONECTOR AND THE CAR STARTS BUT WHEN I LET GO CAR TURNS OFF. SO I WRAPED TAPE AROUND WIRES AND PCM TO KEEP WIRES TIGHT AND CAR RUNNS BUT IT STILL IS TURNING OFF WHEN I DRIVE IT. I CHANGED DIST, FUEL FILTER, CLEANED THROTLE BODY OUT AND CLEANED INJECTORS. ITS CRAZY WHEN IT TURNS OFF I CAN PUT IT IN NEUTRAL AND KEEP TURNING IT AND BY THE THIRD TRY IT WILL START AND I CAN DRIVE IT. IT DOES THIS TO ME ABOUY 5 TIMES EVERY 10 TO 15 MIN THEN IT WILL DRIVE LONGER BEFORE TO DOES IT AGAIN.
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