2000 Ford Explorer XLT 4.OL
You may be low in refrigerant That is what they do when low Get it recharged
If on and off consistently [short cycling ] the usual cause is low or short on freon others are low pressure sensor switch -or clutch failing but the usual problem is freon level
how do i check the freon level?
with gauges --
will it hurt anything to drive it while on and off consistently [short cycling?
it can just pull fuse or disconnect wire
where is the fuse located? do the engine have to be running to check for low freon with a gauge?
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Low pressure cut out, low ambient temperature cut out, coolant temperature cut out, thermostat cut out, intermittent faulty connection, I'd go with low pressure cut out and see if the refrigerant suction line gets cold and sweaty while the AC and fan are on high.
Testimonial: "i replace one can of freon cold air is coming through the vent but i don't think it is cold enough how many ounce of freon do this vehicle call for? it have about 40 psi"
can you explain little more about the Low pressure cut out and what it mean?
First of all are you getting good ac or bad ? The compressor clutch is supposed to click on and off intermittently at about 1 minute intervals if yours is doing it very quickly on off on off every5-10 seconds and your not getting cold air coming from the vents now we know that something is wrong the amount of freon in the system is to low to keep the pressure switch engaged there could be air in the system from a leak or not evacuating the system properly leaving air inside and this will mess with the pressure switch on either side high/low/////answer these to diagnose 1.was the system working real good and now there's not much cold air if yes?a leak is present letting the freon escape 2.did you add freon to the system without evacuating the system and checking that the vacuum level stays constant if so same as #1 a leak is letting the freon escape this truck is going on 20 years old and there's no doubt in my mind that if you don't know the history involved with its ac system then there is definitely a leaking o ring on the lines or compressor seals or the accumulator get a can or 2 of r134 with green uv dye in it and put them in you will see the leak easily especially from the bottom of the accumulator it is probably rusted out and a pin hole is present in it you can also use heavily soapy water and spray around the lines and compressor and evaporator and condenser accumulator and look for either a bubble or that the liquid is drawn in quickly around the suction line and fittings but I would look at the accumulator tank first it is constantly wet and is steel not aluminum and will rust out after time your lines are aluminum also the cycling switch on top of it maybe loose but an old trucks ac will be leaking and you should never have to add freon to the system it's sealed when the performance drops a leak is always the culprit and there has to be sufficient pressure for the switches to turn on the compressor and yes the switches can be faulty to and can be changed easily but if same situation is still present there's a leak ok obviously I'm not there to check myself and talk with you so you could explain other possible issues that are happening with the operation and history of repairs so if you have to post back with other info and write it down so it's all included in your post ok but a leak is present in the system with air inside I'm pretty sure about that good luck stephen
There is a relation between pressure and temperature in refrigerant. The hotel the refrigerant, the more pressure it will have, the lower, the lower. Directly proportional. Google pressure temperature chart R134.
So, to explain the refrigeration cycle briefly, the refrigerant in the evaporator needs to absolve heat or the refrigerant pressure will remain low. When refrigerant is cold, low pressure, it remains in liquid state and not turning to gas. Compressors pump gas, not liquid, liquid would cause damage to the compressor. A low pressure switch disconnects the compressor as protection and as temperature control.
Another reason for having low pressure refrigerant is leaks. If refrigerant has been lost to a leak, the refrigerant pressure becomes low. The pressure switch also protects from keeping the system running without refrigerant flow, oil flows with refrigerant flow, no flow, no lubrication of all the system.
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The problem is probably a shortage or increase in Freon gas or swings in current and may be in thermostat or clutch magnets
Been recharged recently?
Low refrigerant level or faulty pressure switch .
no cold air coming through the vents, where is the pressure switch located?
There should be a low and a high pressure switch in the air conditioning lines with wiring and connectors to them . Do you have a refrigerant pressure gauge ?
no i don't have a refrigerant pressure gauge.
do the engine have to be running for me to check the pressure?
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SOURCE: how do i replace the pcv valve on a 2000 explorer xlt v6 sohc?
On the passenger side of the intake manifold, coming off the bottom
about the center of the engine front to back, you'll feel a hose that
comes off a nipple. That hose makes a 90 degree bend and goes around to
the rear of the motor. Where that hose meets the Y-connector from the
other side of the intake you'll find the PCV valve. It's almost
impossible to see it with the hood installed, and even tougher to reach
it.
A good source of information for Ford Explorers can be found here
SOURCE: 2006 Ford Explorer XLT the Blower Fan only works on 4 and 3 Sp
Look under the dash on passenger side and just to the left of the blower motor housing you will see the 4WD control module.Remove the 2 screws holding the module and let it hang down and your resistors are behind this.Remove the 2 screws holding the resistors and remove.
Now I am assuming you have manual climate control and not electonic.
SOURCE: Air conditioning 1996 Ford Explorer
You were not clear, but I assume the compressor runs OK. If not, troubleshoot the electrical to the compressor. Did you replace the orifice tube while it was discharged for service? If not, then check the pressures. If low side pressure is high the tube might be plugged, especially if you truly had a bad compressor. In a properly working system the line should be cold on the evaporator side of the orifice tube when properly charged. If compressor runs, system properly charged and that line is warm then suspect a plugged tube.
SOURCE: 1996 Ford Explorer XLT abs light comes on on
The ABS light is for the Anti-lock Braking System. The MIL will illuminate if there is a difference in wheel speed sensors signals to the PCM. So you might have a wheel speed sensor that is going out on you. Does the light come on at low speeds, or just higway speeds? You could take the vehicle to a local parts store and have them pull the codes for you and that will tell you which speed sensor is out of whack. Also road grime, dirt and gunk buildup can cause speed sensors to give false readings. Hope tihs helps you out.......
SOURCE: My 2003 Ford Explorer air conditioning is not
Your system is low on refrigerant and needs some more R134. Go to your local parts store and get a recharge kit which will come with a can of R134 and a hose to connect the can to the system. The fitting on the system will be on the passenger side of the vehicle, under the hood. Follow the instructions in the kit and you should be ok. Don't add more than you need to get the a/c blowing consistent cold air. Too much refrigerant can be just as bad and ineffective as too little.
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