AC continues to run, The temperature button (+/-) will not move (allow one to change temperature). Change batteries but in not the problem.

see this steps and fix it. God bless you

Start the car and turn the air conditioning on. Allow the engine to run a few minutes so the air can cool. Check to make sure you have the proper buttons selected. This simple step may uncover the root of the problem.

2 Adjust the air controls on the dashboard to see how they are working. If the controls move the way they should with the proper amount of resistance and stopping in the right places but have effect on the air, then the problem may as simple as a blown fuse. If the controls are not working at all, then the problem is in the control panel.

3 Get to the fuse box in a Ford Explorer by removing the instrument panel to the left and slightly below the steering wheel. There is a fuse remover provided in the fuse box. A blown fuse will have a broken wire in it. In a Ford Explorer, this fuse is red number 10.

4 Find the control panel by prying off the top instrument panel around the air conditioning temperature controls. Unscrew four screws, one in each corner, and remove the temperature control panel. Unplug four electrical connectors and one vacuum hose to the control panel.

5 Listen for the blower motor to be properly working while the engine is running and the air conditioning controls are turned to high. Adjust them from low to high to make sure the blower motor noise increases and decrease accordingly.

For clarification, it seems that you are getting air blown through the system but there is no temperature change, hot or cold?

Your heater control panel is cable operated with sliding knobs, not like the newer electronic controls with push buttons. It is a "mechanical" set up as opposed to an electrical situation.

Does the slider for the temperature control feel like it has tension and is moving mechanisms in the dash somewhere? If not, the cable, which has an "S" curve on the ends, may have slipped out of the arm either behind the heater control panel or at the AC box where the door is. Also, check the heater control valve on the firewall under the hood to see if the arm on the valve is moving properly when the temperature slider is moved.

When you push the "AC" button, do you hear fans under the hood/AC relays click on/idle drop? If not, you may have a separate AC issue, either very low or no freon. If the freon is just a little low, check the sight glass for the freon to see if you see bubbles when the AC comes on.

make sure that the coils, ( the ac radiator ) are clean , blow them out with an air hose if you can get a hold of one, also, make sure the ac fan is coming on, it may start , but the sensor may be bad allowing it to turn off too soon , a normal rise in heat is expected when using the AC but if it is too hot you should feel the motor start to run rough, if its running fine, and the temp does move back to normal when the ac is turned off, and a qualified mechanic has checked it, your probably ok, you could have a sensitive gauge, , If the normal range of the gauge moves to hot and back during normal driving without the ac on, that would show the thermostat is also working

There is a coolant temperature sensor that signals the fan to come on at a certain temperature, the coolant temperature sensor is faulty, change it and you will have resolved the issue.

Sounds like a bad control assembly

I would start with disconnecting the EATC / EMTC ( Electronic Automatic / Manual Temperature Control ) panel.

Open the ash tray, and pull each lower corner out, they are held on with spring clips. Working your way up the center trim panel, there are 6 ( 3 on each side- black circles in the picture above ).
When you get to the top, be cautious, the Passenger side airbag deactivation lamp has small wires on it, don't pull too hard ( green circle above )
On the back of the EATC / EMTC panel are 2 cam over connectors ( blue circles in the picture above ), release the cam tab, and they will disconnect.
When you reconnect it, it will default to off. Next is to run the self test calibration process ( pay attention to the temperature range ).

I have found some times the EATC / EMTC panel will just freeze up, and disconnecting it, and recalibrating it will make it work again. Few of them have not seen a problem again in 2+ years.
Electronic Automatic Temperature Control Module On-Demand Self-Test The EATC module on-demand self-test will retrieve on-demand (hard fault) DTCs only, it will not retrieve continuous DTCs. Continuous DTCs can be cleared when exiting the EATC module on-demand self-test. Make sure to retrieve continuous DTCs by carrying out the Electronic Automatic Temperature Control Module - Retrieve Continuous DTCs procedure before clearing any continuous DTCs.


•The EATC module on-demand self-test will not detect concerns associated with data link messages like engine coolant temperature or vehicle speed signals. A diagnostic tool must be used to retrieve these concerns.
•The EATC module on-demand self-test will detect concerns in the system control functions and will display on-demand (hard fault) DTCs for concerns that are present during the self-test. The vehicle interior temperature should be between 4°-38°C (40°-100°F) when performing the self-test. If the temperatures are not within the specified ranges, false DTCs may be displayed.
•The self-test can be initiated after cycling the ignition switch from OFF to ON. Normal operation of the climate control system stops when the self-test is activated.
•To enter the self-test, press the OFF and DEFROST buttons simultaneously and release, then press the AUTO button within 2 seconds . The display will show a flashing blower icon for 20 seconds , after which all vacuum fluorescent segments will be displayed if there are no on-demand DTCs present. If DTCs are present the EATC module will display "00 00" and then on-demand DTCs. Record all DTCs displayed.
•If any DTCs appear during the self-test, carry out the diagnostic procedure. Refer to the Electronic Automatic Temperature Control Module Diagnostic Trouble Code Index and follow the ACTION for each DTC given. See: Diagnostic Trouble Code Descriptions
•If a condition exists but no DTCs appear during the self-test, GO to Symptom Chart Condition: The EATC System Is Inoperative, Intermittent or Incorrect Operation. See: Symptom Related Diagnostic Procedures
•To exit the self-test and retain all DTCs, press any button except DEFROST. The EATC module will exit the self-test and retain all DTCs.
•To exit the self-test and clear all DTCs, press the DEFROST button. The EATC module will exit the self-test and all DTCs will be cleared.
•Always exit the self-test before powering the system down (system turned OFF). Once the self-test is exited, the ignition switch must remain ON for at least 30 seconds to allow the door actuators to automatically recalibrate.
•Continuous DTCs will be deleted after 80 ignition switch ON cycles after the intermittent fault occurs.

Electronic Automatic Temperature Control Module - Retrieve Continuous DTCs
The EATC module will retrieve only continuous (intermittent and hard) DTCs when carrying out this procedure.


•Retrieval of continuous DTCs can be initiated after cycling the ignition switch from OFF to ON. Normal operation of the climate control system stops when retrieving continuous DTCs.
•To retrieve continuous DTCs, press the OFF and DEFROST buttons simultaneously and release, then press the RECIRC button within 2 seconds . All vacuum fluorescent segments will be displayed if there are no continuous DTCs present. Continuous DTCs are indicated by the presence of the degrees Celsius symbol (°C) on the EATC module display. Record all DTCs displayed.
•If any DTCs appear, carry out the diagnostic procedure. Refer to the Electronic Automatic Temperature Control Module Diagnostic Trouble Code Index and follow the ACTION for each DTC given. See: Diagnostic Trouble Code Descriptions
•If a condition exists but no DTCs appear, GO to Symptom Chart Condition: The EATC System Is Inoperative, Intermittent or Incorrect Operation. See: Symptom Related Diagnostic Procedures
•To exit and retain all continuous DTCs, press any button except DEFROST. The EATC module will exit the retrieved continuous DTCs mode and retain all continuous DTCs.
•To exit and clear all continuous DTCs, press the DEFROST button. The EATC module will exit the retrieve continuous DTCs mode and all continuous DTCs will be cleared.
•Always exit the procedure before powering the system down (system turned OFF). Once the procedure is exited, the ignition switch must remain ON for at least 30 seconds to allow the door actuators to automatically recalibrate.
•Continuous DTCs will be deleted after 80 ignition switch ON cycles after the intermittent fault occurs.

Electronic Automatic Temperature Control (EATC) Module and Electronic Manual Temperature Control (EMTC) Module Cold Boot Process The purpose of the cold boot process is to allow the EATC or EMTC module to re-initialize and calibrate the door actuators. To carry out the cold boot process, follow the steps below.

1.Turn the ignition switch to the OFF position.
2.Disconnect the EATC or EMTC module electrical connectors.
3.Wait one minute .
4.Connect the EATC or EMTC module electrical connectors.
5.Turn the ignition switch to the ON position.
6.Select any position except OFF on the EATC or EMTC module. The EATC or EMTC module will now initialize and calibrate the mode doors. Calibration of the mode doors will take approximately 30 seconds .

more than likely the baffle control that changes position to allow the heat to be allowed into the car.. this is a typical problem on the benzes, you need to remove the cover to the right of the accelerator petal that covers the components, on the dash where to ac button says auto, you can roll the outer ring to manually change where the air comes out see if this is moving and you should have a second one for the baffle that opens and closes the door to allow heat to enter, change the temperature up and down and see if there is movement. If there is it could be your thermostat has stuck in the open position not allowing your car to heat up properly. If your water pump is bad you will see antifreeze on the ground coming out of the weep hole that is on the pump.

The control for the AC/Heater door isn't working. To have AC the door has to close so that the hot air is not being blown into the car. When this door is closed it allows the cool air to pass through. This is either controled by vacuum or a ele. switch

The procedure for re-setting the HVAC control panel on a 1998 Dodge Grand Caravan follows:
With ignition on but not running
1. turn knob to air vents
2. turn fan knob to ON
3. temperature setting on COLD (2X) {I have dual temp controls}
4. hold top(rear wiper) and bottom (rear wiper with wash) buttons pressing down together until all the buttons cycle through (this will require 1 to 2 minutes of continuous pressing)
I learned this from a very helpful local Dodge service adviser

You have one of two possible problems.

1) The temperature shaft retention nut is loose behind the knob

2.) The wires to the potentiometer part of the temperature may be broken.

Either one is common to this vehicle. The replacement of the AC controller is about 900 dollars. If the wires are broken, they can easily be reattached to the circuit board via soldering. What you would have to do is remove the control box from the dash, and disassemble it. Once the unit is apart, there are 3 wires from the temp knob to the circuit board that need to be re-soldered. The unit CAN be repaired, as opposed to the expense of replacing it.